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Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 50
Author
Booroomba 19/Dec 09

IdratherbeclimbingM9
17/12/2009
3:28:05 PM
On 17/12/2009 evanbb wrote:
>Hmmmmm. This has complexified nicely. Without a lift we're shagged, but
>it might not be a bad thing.

If ww does not have ww&s with him he can fit you in even easier.
>
>Anyway, let's keep discussing this all day tomorrow and all the way through
>saturday morning before we develop a plan.

I am packing the gear tonight and heading up tomorrow.
The squally change just passed through Alb/Wod. heading Canberra way.
Windy rain for about 10 mins, and 10 mins after that the roads are dry again!


wallwombat
17/12/2009
5:11:22 PM
On 17/12/2009 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Bugger about that ww&s. It would have been good to catch up again..

He's back in. No teams of three. No double ropes and no simul-belaying.

I'm a happy wombat.

evanbb
17/12/2009
6:06:47 PM
On 17/12/2009 wallwombat wrote:

>He's back in. No teams of three. No double ropes and no simul-belaying.

Hooray!

It's all back on. This is good news.


I reckon we'll be frigging around near peter's panic/integral and possibly Running Crack as a warm up. Don't know about you, but when I see a grade 14 crack that has had a fatality (??!!) I want to lead it.

gordoste
17/12/2009
6:08:27 PM
On 17/12/2009 evanbb wrote:
>when I see a grade 14 crack that has had a fatality (??!!) I want to lead it.

Morbid bastard.

cruze
18/12/2009
8:32:18 AM
Steady on tiger. Show a bit of respect.

evanbb
18/12/2009
9:43:31 AM
On 18/12/2009 cruze wrote:
>Steady on tiger. Show a bit of respect.

Was that to me? Hastily written post last night. Like The Obituary at Mt York, I looked at the line and couldn't believe that there had been an accident there. It's a crack! There's tonnes of good gear. But if there's problems on a route like that, how can anything else be safe?

I just want to have a look really and try figure out what's gone on there.

wallwombat
18/12/2009
10:05:24 AM
I think you will find that both fatalities were before cams were developed. If you try leading them with just nuts and a few hexes, they become a totally different proposition.

wallwombat
18/12/2009
11:17:03 AM
I don't think we are going to have to worry about there being a total fire ban tomorrow.

evanbb
18/12/2009
5:14:41 PM
On 18/12/2009 wallwombat wrote:
>I don't think we are going to have to worry about there being a total fire
>ban tomorrow.

Untrue. Just announced for the whole ACT tomorrow on ABC.

Shenanigans!

capt_mulch
20/12/2009
8:33:56 AM
Well, after all that, only M9 and I went climbing. Wallnumbat* and Tightdryandgrippy*
made it as far as the implement de forensics and a carton of VB in Goulburn. I don't
know about everyone else. We started a bit late due to hanging around in the carpark
(where there is no phone reception), so I suggested to M9 that we head up to the
Booroomba top campsite, where you can get phone reception (standing on top of the
crag with line of sight to Canberra). We got up there and phoned Wallnumbat - sure
enough, he'd only just got out of bed and he and TD&G were going to be a no-show (M9
was amazed at my ability to foretell this situation - I told him it was easy - Adam +
Dave + carton of beer + bag of weed = no show, or turn up very late, drunk and stoned).
Anyway, feeling very sober and straight, M9 and I headed off to find Vent Crack(14).

We headed down to the Northern Buttress and stayed high and clambered up onto the
terrace. We worked out where the start should be by spotting the obvious Snickers
Wall, and had to do some serious scrambling to get up to the base. The start is well
marked with a big white square and VC painted on the rock old school style.

M9 headed off on lead and decided to combine the first two pitches. He took quite a
while, but finally I headed off up the climb. The start is easy, but you then have to pull
up into a V shaped slot and slanting chimney. An easy bit of chimneying gets you up to
the belay ledge at the end of the first documented pitch. Then the fun begins. You
transition from a nice wide ledge onto a steep face with a slanting crack jutting out to
the left. The exposure is very peaky but there are lots of excellent holds all the way up.
The top of the wall has an excellent bum-way-out-in-the-air layback before you pull up
over onto some easier slab and up to the belay. The belay at the top of the second
pitch is in a nice big gully with a few bushes.

M9 wanted to head off on the variant (Baryon), but by then it was way after 1pm and I
protested that we really needed to get off the crag as I didn't want to die from skin
cancer. It wasn't too hot - mid twenties - but as the sun comes over the yardarm at
Booroomba in summer you will get fried with cosmic rays no matter what the
temperature. I argued that this time was good beta, and that we'd come back again with
a much earlier start and do the variant(s).

Reluctantly M9 headed off, combining pitches 3 and 4. From the Granite Guide it seems
that the original climb was done by bashing up the shrub filled gully, but we stayed to
the left, climbing up some fantastic granite slab. The first slab was rice bubble rough
and grippy, the second slab was smoother and lichen covered and felt a little less
secure. M9 was belaying off a very secure broken ledge that is typical of upper
Booroomba. I magnanimously offered to lead to the top, and headed off up a broken,
water streaked wall. The climbing was not strenuous, and I was really enjoying the
alpine feel of upper Booroomba. I found a big boulder to belay from and brought M9 up.
It was then an easy bush bash up the slope to the upper track.

Vent Crack, done in three pitches of about 50m each pitch. Great climbing with lots of
variation. Highly recommend - just start early!!

BTW - great leading M9!

* The earth bound alter egos of some well known Chocky members.

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 50
There are 50 messages in this topic.

 

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