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Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 50
Author
Booroomba 19/Dec 09

evanbb
16/12/2009
11:30:35 AM
Some talk about some Booroomba climbing this weekend. I think it's largely a good idea.

It's my birthday just before Christmas, so I usually spend the weekend before Xmas climbing somewhere. More correctly, I usually climb on the saturday, in a half hearted manner, then get roaring drunk that night. That said though, I didn't climb much last year.

Problem here is that I don't have a car. Could someone from north pick me up on the way through? I'll be the 4th in the party as I understand it, so anyone else thinking of coming would be best served with a partner. Otherwise, we could do a 5 person simulclimb ascent of Possum. That would be hilarious.

I haven't climbed much lately, so I'm not aiming high. The proposed grade 17 slab would be funny for you guys, but would bring shame to my family. I like the look of the Vent Crack/Baryon link up if someone else is keen.

wallwombat
16/12/2009
11:48:21 AM
On 16/12/2009 evanbb wrote:
>It's my birthday just before Christmas, so I usually spend the weekend
>before Xmas climbing somewhere. More correctly, I usually climb on the
>saturday, in a half hearted manner, then get roaring drunk that night.

I thinks that's actually the plan. In fact that is normally the plan when me and widewetandslippery go climbing

>Problem here is that I don't have a car. Could someone from north pick
>me up on the way through?

No worries there. M9 doesn't have use of a car this weekend either, so I'll be picking him up from Lyons. I hope my poor little van can handle it. Just be prepared to duck down in we see any federales.


>I haven't climbed much lately, so I'm not aiming high. The proposed grade
>17 slab would be funny for you guys, but would bring shame to my family.

I haven't tied into a rope since doing my ankles climbing with Mikl, so you probably have more recent form than me. I work on the theory that granite slabbing is like riding a bike. I'm more worried about the walk up there.


>I like the look of the Vent Crack/Baryon link up if someone else is keen.

I told M9 that I'd do Equilibrium with him. I'm sure widewetandslippery will hop on Vent Crack/Baryon with you, if you ask nicely. Anyway we can work all that out on the day.

It would be good to get Mulchy and someone else to come along too. Might save my van from doing a phuffer valve if I only have to stuff one person in the back. Remeber, beer is heavy.

Sounds like a goer.

cruze
16/12/2009
12:04:06 PM
An excellent finish to Vent Crack/Baryon is After the Reiving. Have fun! That Baryon flake makes the Ivory Coast flake feel like the pillars of hercules...

evanbb
16/12/2009
12:27:41 PM
On 16/12/2009 cruze wrote:
>An excellent finish to Vent Crack/Baryon is After the Reiving. Have fun!
>That Baryon flake makes the Ivory Coast flake feel like the pillars of
>hercules...

That's exactly what I had in mind. Looks like an excellent opportunity to get lost on the walk in too.
widewetandslippery
16/12/2009
12:34:57 PM
Who sells a act guide in sydney before I say yes?

wallwombat
16/12/2009
1:01:21 PM
On 16/12/2009 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Who sells a act guide in sydney before I say yes?

Just rang around. No one has it.

I have one. Don't be a poof.

Just reading up on Vent Crack 14/ Baryon 15 / After the Reiving 15 combo. It sounds excellent and reasonably well protected by Booroomba standards.


evanbb
16/12/2009
1:43:23 PM
I reckon Paddy's might have one. I think it's about 140m of up to grade 15 crack climbing.

cruze
16/12/2009
1:48:06 PM
On 16/12/2009 wallwombat wrote:
>On 16/12/2009 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>Who sells a act guide in sydney before I say yes?
>
>Just rang around. No one has it.
>
>I have one. Don't be a poof.
>
>Just reading up on Vent Crack 14/ Baryon 15 / After the Reiving 15 combo.
>It sounds excellent and reasonably well protected by Booroomba standards.
>
>
>
Well protected for the first two.

I did the combo on a blisteringly hot day (35+ in the shade) in full sun with half a litre between me and my partner. Seriously bad move. There is very little shelter after the first pitch. We went direct to the thin crack at the start of After the Reiving. Bit dicey on hot rock but the orthodox alternative of the wide crack didn't look too enticing. Also about 1000 Bogongs came out of the Baryon flake as I climbed it which made it sound like a thunderstorm.

Great climbing.

wallwombat
16/12/2009
1:56:45 PM
On 16/12/2009 evanbb wrote:
>I reckon Paddy's might have one.

I rang Paddys, Mountain Equipment and MDs. They don't have em.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16/12/2009
2:10:10 PM
My ACT Granite Guide is outdated.
It is good for grades before incremental creep set in though!

All this talk of the 140m of crack with a thinner flake than Ivory Coast is actually getting me interested in this line too, if you feel up to a double-bunger for your ankles ww.
I appreciate monogamous climbing relationships, so won't two-time ww&s if he comes.

wallwombat
16/12/2009
2:34:28 PM
On 16/12/2009 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>My ACT Granite Guide is outdated.
>It is good for grades before incremental creep set in though!
>
>All this talk of the 140m of crack with a thinner flake than Ivory Coast
>is actually getting me interested in this line too, if you feel up to a
>double-bunger for your ankles ww.
>I appreciate monogamous climbing relationships, so won't two-time ww&s
>if he comes.


I was thinking the same thing, Mr Harding-Robbins. Could be fun to do the same route and we could get some good piccys that way too. I think WW&S will be into that idea. No need to over-extend ourselves this close to Christmas.

cruze
16/12/2009
2:43:47 PM
Sorry, maybe I should clarify. The Baryon flake is only about 10 m. The actual climb without link up and including a pretty rubbish top pitch would be considerably longer. It just creaks and flexes and crumbles on a hot day a lot worse than the flake on Ivory Coast which I suspect will one day go from bomber to slip sliding and decapitating belayer away.

Anyway M9 wont you be on Equilibrium? That is good for some photos...
Try:
http://anumc.anu.edu.au/gallery/albun01/

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16/12/2009
3:06:35 PM
>Anyway M9 wont you be on Equilibrium? That is good for some photos...

Thanks for the link cruze.
I took a fall on Equilibrium last time I tried it on a warm day (we ended up traversing off into sunstroke at about half height), and your pic-link of doing it in winter makes good friction sense, ... though I could always continue to try and improve my footwork!
I am looking forward to getting back on it, and am being greedy by tempting Mr Bridwell-Sharma into two routes on the day.

cruze
16/12/2009
3:38:48 PM
Crap! Where did you fall from? Depending on the location you could either retreat by foot or by helicopter.

Winter is beautiful on the slabs.

BETA alert!! I got a couple of small wires before the first bolt then nothing to the second bolt and thought the crux was the step across at the small dihedral just below the second bolt. Heart in mouth stuff with a 15-20m? runout at that point.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16/12/2009
4:02:20 PM
On 16/12/2009 cruze wrote:
>Crap! Where did you fall from? Depending on the location you could either
>retreat by foot or by helicopter.
>
Somewhere above Clancy in your shot.
I was trying to do a direct line to the belay located at the start of the crux pitch, as I had looked ahead and decided what I was on was the same steepness/runout-ness as that next pitch, so it should be doable!
The fall was a combination slide-tumble and I ended up upside down when the gear held. A bruised ego was all that resulted...
After the fall I took the normal (much easier) line to the belay. We looked at the weather (iffy due showers about), and decided based on our success to that point, that we may be in for an epic on the main pitch, so bailed from there by traversing to Sunstroke.
The traverse was a reasonable ropelength and had it's interesting bits as well, plus it linked up just before the crux of Sunstroke, so was an enjoyable pitch/continuation.

cruze
16/12/2009
4:13:35 PM
OK, so you fell off-route on P1. I thought that if you had fallen on P2 then you might be in for some trouble. I think that the traverse you mention might be part of the massive Gridle Traverse of the entire North Buttress/Slabs (>300m).

BTW I did Integral on the 18th of December one year and it was bitterly cold and my Belayer covered herself with the rope bag for warmth. Quite funny really - just this rope coming out from under a sheet of plastic 30-40 m below me. That is, you never know what the weather will bring up there.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16/12/2009
4:26:00 PM
On 16/12/2009 cruze wrote:
>you never know what the weather will bring up there.

True. Last summer Capt_mulch and I got snowed on while climbing up there one time.

Re
>the flake on Ivory Coast which I suspect will one day go from bomber to slip sliding and decapitating belayer away.

Have done that and noticed it 'drums'.
~> is best to lead that pitch ;-)
Compared to flakes at Buffalo I think the photo in the guidebook makes it look better than it actually is. It is elegant enough, but the slab angle eases off to being manageable without the flake, even for my humble grades.

>Baryon flake
... sounds great!
:P



wallwombat
16/12/2009
5:00:57 PM
Mulchy is in . I'll give him a call later . Hopefilly he can find a partner. Might see if he can give someone a lift too.

evanbb
16/12/2009
5:06:34 PM
On 16/12/2009 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
> A bruised ego was all that resulted...

And brown trousers?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16/12/2009
6:01:32 PM
On 16/12/2009 wallwombat wrote:
>Mulchy is in .
Good one. I haven't been able to contact him.

(I got confirmation from Brendan that he is unavailable).

Sounds like it will be;
ww
ww&s
evanbb (maybe, & no transport)
Mulchy
M9 (no transport, but if Mulchy goes he lives next suburb to where I will be staying.)

Anyone else?


>And brown trousers?

No, it was sufficiently tenuous (for me) that I half expected it, and when it happened it was so quick that it was over before I realised it!

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There are 50 messages in this topic.

 

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