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Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 38
Author
partners for Arapiles, Oct. 15 to Nov 17

mattjr
17/09/2009
2:21:28 PM
On 17/09/2009 WM wrote:
>hmm, you're normally more on the money than that ODH. i didn't say one
>crag or style was better than the other - just that they're different,
>and Rosea et al are not to be missed out on. I did say Rosea's best routes
>are better than anything at Araps, and let me give examples: Heretic, Last
>Rites, and Ascension, respectively, are better than any 17, 19 or 21 at
>Araps.

I don't think Rosea's 'best' routes have anything over the Araps classics. Perhaps the location feels a little more adventurous but I wouldn't place one over the other.
gfdonc
17/09/2009
3:42:25 PM
I found it hard to counter Will's assertions.
Heretic 17 vs Missing Link or Mari 17. Heretic wins.
Last Rites 19 against Judgement Day or Tannin or Quo Vadis 19. Last Rites wins.
The Ascension 21 against Auto Da Fe 21. Hmm, close call.

Wendy
17/09/2009
4:13:22 PM
On 17/09/2009 gfdonc wrote:
>I found it hard to counter Will's assertions.
>Heretic 17 vs Missing Link or Mari 17. Heretic wins.
>Last Rites 19 against Judgement Day or Tannin or Quo Vadis 19. Last Rites
>wins.
>The Ascension 21 against Auto Da Fe 21. Hmm, close call.
>
>

We'd probably kill each other if we had to agree on a climb to do together Steve! I'd take the Ascention over Auto de Fe anyday and I haven't even done it yet! Ok, I agree Heretic wins over Missing Link (article or no article) but Mari is one of the best single pitch 17s on the planet. Trying to compare apples with apples, you'd have to take multipitch routes at araps or single at Rosea. I mean, Debutante direct start or Knick Knack vs Morphydd? I'd take Morphydd. But I'd say Euridice or Skink or 5 fingered Mary or Lamplighter or resignation are equally as good as the big routes at Rosea.

On a flying trip to oz, i'd probably only spend a couple of days at Rosea, another 1 or 2 at Bundaleer, but only if it's warm, a day in Stapylton Amphitheatre, maybe one day at Mt Difficult or Asses Ears then unless you were feeling solid on 22-23, at which point a few more super classics open up or you wanted to go sport climbing, spend the rest of the time at Araps. Where you are best of starting in order to find climbing partners. And it's not so far you can't do day trips to the Gramps.
One Day Hero
17/09/2009
5:48:14 PM
On 17/09/2009 WM wrote:
>hmm, you're normally more on the money than that ODH.>Travelguy is not a newby to araps so he's already had the super cool first
>impressions.

Whoops, didn't realise he'd been to araps before. Get out to the gramps lad!

Still, I was disappointed with The Ascention, the guidebook had me gee-ed up for a sustained 40m thrash on the 3rd pitch.......actually its all over after about 15m and you doddle up jugslab for the rest. There are better and more sustained 3-4 pitch routes at Booroomba, and it has a surprisingly similar feel (looking out over a valley which used to be closed canopy but is now burnt sticks and bare dirt)

And if we're getting into araps vs. gramps, bump up to 22 and find me something as good as Second Coming!
travelguy
17/09/2009
7:22:08 PM
Actually, when I first climbed Araps, I kept saying, This is just like the Gunks! Great rock, solid gear, easy access (I hate long/difficult approaches!), lots of great routes close together...

I climbed at Stapylton and it was ok but not stellar.

I LOVED Navarre on the Grey Green wall-it is one of my favorite climbs in the entire world!

WM, I looked at the links you sent (thanks for them!) and most of the routes were annotated with either bad rock or difficult access or difficult route finding. They don't look as appealing as Araps. I've only done maybe 20 or 30 routes at Araps so there are tons more for me to do. I might try Rosea if I find a partner who knows the area well. You are correct that I am not going to NSW and also that I am not just interested in a climb because it has easy access. With all of the climbing I've done, I want to climb just the best routes (of any grade-IMO, climbing does not get any better than Muldoon!)
wherever I am climbing.


cruze
18/09/2009
8:43:30 AM
Navarre is fantastic!

ambyeok
18/09/2009
9:26:13 AM
On 16/09/2009 travelguy wrote:
>My main goal is to do as many 2 and 3 star routes as possible.

On 17/09/2009 travelguy wrote:
>With all of the climbing I've done, I want to climb just the best routes

As far as I can tell, routes get stars for all kinds of reasons (some of those reasons dont seem to suit my tastes, my style, or my mood on the day). I wouldnt dismiss any 1 star routes, some of those have been my favourite climbs. Sorry I cant give examples but my climbing diary is at home, Ill try and post some later.

Maybe its a bit like watching a movie, you go in with high expectations and your usually dissapointed; you go in with no preconception and come across something great and the feeling cant be compared.
travelguy
29/09/2009
5:13:18 AM
I edited my original post for the actual days I'll be there (Oct 15 -Nov 17). I have a couple of partners lined up but still need to fill in a few days each week. let me know if anyone is free (or cheap!)

Paz-until when will you and your crowd be around?

Richard
WM
29/09/2009
10:17:22 AM
On 16/09/2009 Wendy wrote:
> you can climb at Araps when it's 40 really, there are adequate cool, shady gullies.

does everyone else agree with this? Once I tried Araps on a 39C day, we made a pre-dawn start and went for a shady gully. We bailed at 7 AM! Never again! Now I rule out Araps if the forecast is anything more than low 30s.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
29/09/2009
10:34:16 AM
On 29/09/2009 WM wrote:
>On 16/09/2009 Wendy wrote:
>> you can climb at Araps when it's 40 really, there are adequate cool,
>shady gullies.
>
>does everyone else agree with this?

... even Mt Buffalo on a 40 day can be too hot. ~> On those occasions I am glad I am not at Arapiles!
bones
29/09/2009
10:44:34 AM
Last time I climbed at Araps on a 40+ day I forgot that a shady climb didn't necessarily mean a shady topout and I got so sun affected I drove back to melbourne without the rope!
simey
29/09/2009
10:52:15 AM
On 29/09/2009 WM wrote:
>On 16/09/2009 Wendy wrote:
>> you can climb at Araps when it's 40 really, there are adequate cool,
>shady gullies.
>
>does everyone else agree with this?

I definitely agree with Wendy's comment. Given that Arapiles usually has a dry heat (as opposed to humid) I have been amazed at how reasonable it can be climbing in the shade when the temperature is pushing 40C. Just make sure you are not belaying in the sun.
gfdonc
29/09/2009
10:55:32 AM
I did Judgement Day once on a 38C afternoon and was surprised how pleasant it was - a good breeze was blowing through the back of the Pharos.
Not many others were climbing.
travelguy
16/10/2009
2:29:11 PM
i got to Araps last night and will be here until Nov 16.

I still need a partner for part of my visit so let me know if any of you do, too

Richard

cruze
19/10/2009
3:42:13 PM
My partner and I met Richard yesterday afternoon. He seems like a really nice guy with plenty of enthusiasm. I would encourage anyone that is heading up to hook up!
andreas
22/10/2009
12:29:00 PM
yo travel guy how is your climbing. Still at araps i going there next week are crazy john adams and pete stil hanging around at the pines. And steve
greetings and see ya at the pines
ZERO
27/10/2009
10:25:19 AM
Andreas
Will catch you soon.
Staying in Nati now.
gfdonc
27/10/2009
11:44:08 AM
Hey Travelguy,
A small crew of us are there over the coming long weekend (Friday-Tuesday). Last time I checked, it was an odd number for at least some of the days. Are you still looking for a climbing partner? If so, see my profile for an email address.
- Steve

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There are 38 messages in this topic.

 

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