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Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 44
Author
distracting all the potential applicants

evanbb
16/09/2009
10:40:43 AM
I reckon you'd get very close to Booroomba in 3 hours from your place Neil; Slightly south of Sydney proper. If you take the correct roads through the capital, should only be half an hour-40 mins to Booroomba

Saturday we got scared off Outer LImits (180m 18) on the first pitch. Took for ever to find it and we weren't 100% sure in either case. First pitch wandered up a broken flake and some blocks, then a bolt and 5m of hard climbing up a bulging slab. Falls would have been very nasty, classic stance bolting. Then Steve ran up Hermes, while I stood in the sun and had a minor stroke. Was blaring in the sun.

Sunday we hid in the shade of The Cloisters, right out the end of the Orroral Ridge. Did a bunch of mid grade cracks and flakes. Steve got shut down (not surprisingly!) by the 20 down the hill; a crack that runs fingers/hands/cupped hands then 4m layback to the top of a flake. Once on the flake, dive into the bottomless offwidth for 5 metres of pain! Apart from that, some of the other cracks were brilliant. There's a classic 15, very pure jamming.

Monday was a 'Climbing Is Fun' day, so we did Possum into Carrezzissima and were finished by 3. Good weekend. Consolidated some skills, shredded my hands and learnt how to jam a bit more properly.
widewetandslippery
16/09/2009
11:09:12 AM
evans on the money: if you take the correct roads.

Canberraites may have proper names for directions but once you come into canberra on northbourne the is a right hand turn that flanks town to the west. This goes all the way to tuggranong where it joins the south road to tharwa. This method eliminates alot of the ring road (ie getting lost) stuff. Stop in Tug. for food. The best dan murphys i've been to is there. Also a good place to support is the Tharwa shop, longnecks and maggot bags.

Also realise signs that say Town Centre refer to the centre of the butfuk suburb you are driving through at the time not the centre of the city.

nmonteith
16/09/2009
12:01:48 PM
I'll just be following the robotic commands of my GPS.
grangrump
16/09/2009
12:08:18 PM
On 16/09/2009 widewetandslippery wrote:
>once you come into
>canberra on northbourne the is a right hand turn that flanks town to the
>west. This goes all the way to tuggranong where it joins the south road
>to tharwa. This method eliminates alot of the ring road (ie getting lost)

Nah. From Sydney your GPS should take you down Majura Road past airport to Cooma Road. Only tricky bit is choosing right roundabout to head SW to Tharwa

ajfclark
16/09/2009
12:13:32 PM
On 16/09/2009 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Canberraites may have proper names for directions but once you come into canberra on northbourne the is a right hand turn that flanks town to the west.

Out west? I'd do what google maps suggests and head past the airport: http://maps.google.com.au/maps?q=sydney%20to%20tharwa Conveniently, that heads past Fyshwick...

[Edit: Not exactly what I'd do, I would head out west but if I didn't stop by my parents' place they'd be a little unhappy]

Pat
16/09/2009
12:26:10 PM
Do they read chocktone?

ajfclark
16/09/2009
2:02:53 PM
My folks? No. They'd find out somehow though...

evanbb
16/09/2009
2:24:59 PM
On 16/09/2009 ajfclark wrote:
>My folks? No. They'd find out somehow though...

No more talking about your personal lives and the best way to drive to Canberra. This is my 'Looking for Canberra climbers' thread. You're distracting all the potential applicants. Go and start your own 'interesting variations on driving through Canberra, and the influences of these choices on parental relationships'.

Focus. I want to climb granite this weekend. I live in Canberra. Who's with me?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16/09/2009
2:57:36 PM
>Focus




~> Focus




Is there any grit on the way through Canberra?

Hey ajf, have your folk climbed on grit?

Heh, heh, heh.
widewetandslippery
16/09/2009
3:18:29 PM
Looks like a solo mission evan. Its not at all lonely soloing those slabs, all of your little voices have a chance to have a great conversation.

And to continue the thread hijack ACT granite is good. There is year round climbing of sorts if you're smart and it is not that far from sydney on good road/easy driving.

evanbb
16/09/2009
3:44:09 PM
On 16/09/2009 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Looks like a solo mission evan. Its not at all lonely soloing those slabs,
>all of your little voices have a chance to have a great conversation.

Looks like I might go Peak Baggin, solo, all the climbers know are busy. Wouldn't mind an EPIRB, just so I stay out of the news.

Either that or I'm going to learn some rope-solo techniques; aid and clean. Here we go, let's start an esoteric gear conversation here too; What possible failure mode exists using an ATC Guide in auto-belay mode while top roping something? I've used it a few times to prussick/climb low angled stuff and have never really seen any problems with it. Clipped direct to the harness, and I might even do it on isolated half ropes, just to double the redundancy.

If nothing comes up I'd like to chuck a dozen laps on one of the cracks down the back of the Cloisters. Nice straight jam crack from big fists down to good hands.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16/09/2009
4:11:33 PM
Listen to the voices evanbb. They could stop you from-







hijacking your own thread?

>What possible failure mode exists using an ATC Guide in auto-belay mode while top roping something?

Is the intention to have the Guide on your belay loop?
... or set up at the top of the climb (kind of top-rope fashion), and you intend pulling slack through it while climbing?

~> Either way the biggest problem I see in this kind of usage of it, would be the unmanageable rope aspects due to it not remaining in a stable position. This would exacerbate reducing the slack in the system while in 'crux of the climb' type conditions; ie by comparison, it is hard enough running a clove hitch self belay system up a rope while leading/toproping, without the added twisty-ness of a belay device moving around, or a rope 'locking off' when not wanting it to do so(!)?

I am probably thinking of a different set-up to you?

Post edit:
Upon further thought, I can't see how the rope would pull through it (& still be useful as a belay), without locking off, if the Guide is used independently at the top.


evanbb
17/09/2009
11:04:43 AM
Yeah, Guide on belay loop, in Auto-Belay mode. It won't run freely on the rope, but it's pretty easy to pull through from stances; much like stopping to place gear.

wallwombat
17/09/2009
11:19:23 AM
On 16/09/2009 evanbb wrote:

>..... I want to climb granite this weekend. I live in Canberra. Who's with me?

widewetandslippery and myself will be at Black Range from around 12.30 Saturday until about 3 on Sunday.

Look for a black van and then follow the trail of empty beer cans until you find us. Please do not pick up the cans. That's how we find our way back to the van.

evanbb
17/09/2009
11:25:18 AM
Good news! You're camping saturday night? This sounds like a plan.

I'll head up Saturday arvo.
Wendy
17/09/2009
11:33:03 AM
On 17/09/2009 evanbb wrote:
>Good news! You're camping saturday night? This sounds like a plan.
>
>I'll head up Saturday arvo.

I'm glad you've been saved the epic with the ATC. Get a microscender. Makes such shenangians ways easier, and probably safer.

evanbb
17/09/2009
11:53:05 AM
On 17/09/2009 Wendy wrote:
>I'm glad you've been saved the epic with the ATC. Get a microscender.
> Makes such shenangians ways easier, and probably safer.

Good plan. I'd been meaning to buy one of these for years anyway.
http://mountaintools.com/cat/rescue/pet_rescuemicro.htm
grangrump
17/09/2009
12:17:19 PM
On 17/09/2009 wallwombat wrote:
>widewetandslippery and myself will be at Black Range from around 12.30
>Saturday until about 3 on Sunday.

So can you give out a rough location for Candy Mountain?
thx

ajfclark
17/09/2009
12:28:49 PM
Whenever someone mentions Candy Mountain I think of the story of Charlie going to Candy Mountain and how annoying it is to get that song stuck in your head.
widewetandslippery
17/09/2009
12:56:36 PM
I have no idea of where Candy Mountain is.

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 44
There are 44 messages in this topic.

 

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