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Find Climbers In Your Area

TRIP: Yosemite/Font/Stanage Pilgrimage
Date	Attendees	Invite	Status
2/10 To 6-Nov-2006	cath (CONFIRMED), d.lodge (CONFIRMED), franga (CONFIRMED), goshen (INVITED), Super Saiyan (CONFIRMED)	PUBLIC	PLANNED

Author

Yosemite/Font/Stanage Pilgrimage

drdeviousii

1-Aug-2006
5:46:16 PM

On 1/08/2006 Super Saiyan wrote:
>On 1/08/2006 ademmert wrote:
>>see you in yosamite will be there sept/oct for some sweet granite action
>>mmmmmm
>
>Boulders or routes man?

Are you really going all the way to the Valley just to boulder?!??! fk! Kids these days...


Super Saiyan

1-Aug-2006
5:48:04 PM

ok...

Any super super classics that i MUST do?

So far i have:

Le Helicoptaire
Le Toit de cul de shein
Le Abbatoir
Carnage

Stuey

2-Aug-2006
8:52:07 AM

Unless you can happily live with adding more shit to the already messed up rock, leave the pof the alone and use chalk. I have NEVER had to use pof in many trips nor have I had a bad word said to me about chalk and most of the local (certainly the younger generation) have embraced it and use it. I've even had guys asking to use some of my chalk before. This myth that you're going to get lynched if someone gets a sniff that you're using the white stuff is a load of bollocks and is perpetuated by the old gits at the COSIROC site.

BTW: Abbatoir is shite.

Classics:

Excalibur at Cuisiniere
Mini Karma at Isatis
Beurre Marga at Isatis
Jet Set at Roche Aux Sabot
Rubis Sur L'Ongle at Gorge Aux Chats
Magic Bus at Buthiers (should be a pushover if you're strong from HMC!)
Festin De Pierre (great sequence of moves) and Duroxmanie at Cuvier Rempart
The whole blue circuit at Roche Aux Sabots
The whole red circuit at Bas Cuvier
Many of the blacks at L'Elephant
Le Science Friction at Aprement
La Marie Rose (polished to f*ck but a must do simply for the history)
Le Statique at Isatis
Slopey 6c? on the block to the left of the above
Kangaroo City (dyno) at Isatis
Vin Rouge (dyno) at Isatis
El Poussif at Isatis
Eclipse at Cul Chien
Cul De Chien roof (awesome - a must)

Now the softest 7a (V6's) for that confidence boost:

Cortomaltese at Bas Cuvier
Clin D'Oeil at Aprement
Bizarre Bizarre at Cuisiniere
La Rhume Folle at Bas Cuvier
Boule De Nerfs at Boissy Aux Cailles.
Holey Moley at Bas Cuvier
Little Arete by the path in Cuisiniere

That should keep you going....


Super Saiyan

2-Aug-2006
10:08:42 AM

love your work stuey!

Eclipse was definately on the list, i forgot about it before... I've basically printed that list off! 3 week rampage!! haha

dalai

2-Aug-2006
10:22:56 AM

On 2/08/2006 Stuey wrote:
>This myth that you're going to get lynched if someone gets a sniff that you're
>using the white stuff is a load of bollocks and is perpetuated by the old
>gits at the COSIROC site.

I had some nasty looks...

>BTW: Abbatoir is shite.

Agreed. 7A just to it's left is much better...


Super Saiyan

2-Aug-2006
10:24:28 AM

Is that Carnage?

dalai

2-Aug-2006
11:12:45 AM

Sorry, got mixed up - I meant left of La Boucherie, which is the problem I didn't really care for...

L'Araignée 7a is the problem I found quite enjoyable.

http://bleau.info/cuvier/188.html

Actually checking bleau.info - I actually liked L'Abattoir It has the history being the first 7a of Bleau (1960)

http://bleau.info/cuvier/186.html


Super Saiyan

2-Aug-2006
11:22:50 AM

On 2/08/2006 dalai wrote:

Actually checking bleau.info - I actually liked L'Abattoir It has the
history being the first 7a of Bleau (1960)

Thats actually the reason i had it on my list!

L'Araignee looks sweet as too!

2 months today!!!

Stuey

2-Aug-2006
12:57:21 PM

On 2/08/2006 dalai wrote:
>On 2/08/2006 Stuey wrote:
>>This myth that you're going to get lynched if someone gets a sniff that
>you're
>>using the white stuff is a load of bollocks and is perpetuated by the
>old
>>gits at the COSIROC site.
>
>I had some nasty looks...
>
Its the older generation if anything. But i've never experienced it or heard of it happening to friends on their trips.

At Bas Cuvier, I forgot - If you're a lanky git you should try L'Aerodynamite too.

And the Joker (which I hate but others love it!)

An you check out some of the newer areas that haven't been poffed to death yet, like Cuvier La Reconnaissance. Then you'll see what the rock looked like before the 'rosin' got slapped all over it. Theres a great problem there called Furer D'eole worth seeking out, plus enough for a days entertainment.

Also

At Petit Bois:

Big Jim
La Baleine

and Gargantoit Assis at Gorges Du Houx

And check ot the wall of dynos at Franchard Sablons (from 7a-8a) which features the enormously huge Rainbow Rocket (8a)

http://bleau.info/sablons/1460-12053.html

Heres another tip if you want your fingertips to last, but some of this:

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/foosdirect-store/antihydral.html

Use very carefully and sparingly. When your tips are worn through to the pink this stops sweat moisture leaking through and kills the pain a bit. Just put on finger tips (do not get on joint creases) leave for an hour to dry, wash off and moisturise. The secret to many days on ;)


Super Saiyan

2-Aug-2006
1:26:52 PM

On 2/08/2006 Stuey wrote:

>At Bas Cuvier, I forgot - If you're a lanky git you should try L'Aerodynamite
>too.

Thats me! Bring it on!

>And the Joker (which I hate but others love it!)

>And check ot the wall of dynos at Franchard Sablons (from 7a-8a) which
>features the enormously huge Rainbow Rocket (8a)

Oh my god! Paradise!

Nottobetaken

2-Aug-2006
2:11:18 PM

On 2/08/2006 Super Saiyan wrote:
>>And check ot the wall of dynos at Franchard Sablons (from 7a-8a) which
>>features the enormously huge Rainbow Rocket (8a)
>
>Oh my god! Paradise!

Ditto! That thing looks even cooler than the legendary Hale-Bopp!
http://bleau.info/cretesud/527-9548.html

Stuey

2-Aug-2006
2:19:46 PM

On 2/08/2006 Boardlord wrote:
>On 2/08/2006 Super Saiyan wrote:
>>>And check ot the wall of dynos at Franchard Sablons (from 7a-8a) which
>>>features the enormously huge Rainbow Rocket (8a)
>>
>>Oh my god! Paradise!
>
>Ditto! That thing looks even cooler than the legendary Hale-Bopp!
>http://bleau.info/cretesud/527-9548.html
>

Its a monster and I think even further than Hale Bopp- I can't do either but at least it doesn't rip your tips to shreds like the HB start hold. The first 7a dyno (Syphilde) on that wall is piss for lankys and should be on the soft tick list. I was taking pics on HB while a 6'4" buddy of mine was trying it. I have have one shot of him with his hand way over the top hold but he didn't didn't stick it. Makes him cry to look at it now! ;)


Super Saiyan

2-Aug-2006
2:46:14 PM

well im 6ft with a +8cm ape index so bring on the dynos!

Nottobetaken

2-Aug-2006
2:57:36 PM

The Hale-Bopp dyno is a 5'9" jump from a crimper line to a flat top. Good luck!

Stuey

2-Aug-2006
3:08:44 PM

Kangaroo City (7b)is a bunched start off a flake and sideways so height is not necessarily and big advantage-its a hardish swing to hold.

Voltex (7b+) is straight up and is just pretty big, top hold isn't the easiest catch.

You could always try:

Mister Dynamite (7b) at Cuisiniere which is pretty bunched at the start.
Entorse (7b) (Arete allowed) One handed
Double Entorse (7b+)(no arete) Double handed, both at Cuisniere.Weird getting on (in a techncial Peak District Deliverence kinda way) but cool.

While there do Impasse Du Hazard which is nearby and fantastic.

Also:

Smatch (Smash) (7b) Roche Aux Sabots - Weird start and huge jump:

http://bleau.info/sabots/771.html

While at Roche, do Graviton which should be on the classics list.

There are 35 messages in this topic.