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Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 79
Author
Castle Hill Siege!

alrob
25/09/2005
6:46:37 PM
probably can't do it after all. the logistics of it all for 2 weeks is too much, especially as terry isn't coming, nor is timmy i beilieve. wish i could make it back there, but i'll be heading to tassie for a few weeks intstead now probably.
Setha
25/09/2005
9:57:22 PM
I'm holding to Tricky being soft! :p

Spoke to a guy who'd just left NZ in the past few days, that storm sounded pretty fierce Duncan, I can imagine there must have alot of snow around.

alrob
25/09/2005
10:05:13 PM
On 25/09/2005 Setha wrote:
>I'm holding to Tricky being soft! :p
>

ok, but only if i can say that i thought raw terror was only 6 (even though i didn't do it)
Duncan
28/09/2005
10:51:27 AM
On 25/09/2005 Setha wrote:
>I'm holding to Tricky being soft! :p

I was speaking to an English guy who has been living in Springfield for the last year (Tim is his name, you probably met him seth) and he reckoned that climbers who are used to big moves on positive holds (what he called "gym climbers" - cheeky bugger) found tricky easy. He said he found it hard, because it was so atypical for castle hill. I think its a good theory.

>Spoke to a guy who'd just left NZ in the past few days, that storm sounded
>pretty fierce Duncan, I can imagine there must have alot of snow around.

Hmm, it wasn't so bad in the end. Although, when I did one move boulder, there was snow all over the v5 to the left and snow up to the right - I knid of had to step around and over it to get off. Then I had to jump into snow to get off the boulder. Climbing shoes on or off, thats the question! I went with on...

Romfrantic
28/09/2005
11:23:25 AM
Hey Duncan, sounds like you're having fun over in UnZed....good to see! :-)
Setha
28/09/2005
7:00:57 PM
Yep, I met Tim and he said pretty much the same thing to me regarding Tricky, rather strong dude ol' Tim.

Found any more stand out probs Dunc?
Duncan
30/09/2005
9:34:19 AM
I'm finding a lot of stuff that I am getting spanked on - good times! Big Balls and Small balls are both cool mantel problems near raw terror (which is pretty hard huh?). Simultaneous Equation is also just near by, its a v6 that goes between 2 v7's - fury fingers and something else? There is also an excellent v5 down near the headlight boulder called the dominatrix. Oh, and rocket pants looks super cool. Tomorrow is my last climbing day. I have some sending to do...

Opium may well be the coolest problem in existence - although a few more pads and spotters are required before I go for that big move.

mousey
30/09/2005
2:18:58 PM
>Opium may well be the coolest problem in existence - although a few more pads and spotters are required before I go for that big move.
f'en oath i love that problem, even though i got spankd off it hardcore!!
tricky is sick as well, i felt it was pretty solid though...
Duncan
4/10/2005
10:39:49 AM
In a similar vein to setha's post on the previous page, my reccomendations:
v2: sonar on the submarine boulder. Fun, and a good warmup for the other good stuff on the submarine boulder

v3: Orifice Fish in quantum field - so very good. Not too hard, just really pleasant. An OK landing to boot. Nice.

v4: Beautiful Edges - just awesome. Best problem I did, and guarenteed to leave you with a smile on your face.

Right Headlight - Big moves to a slabby top. Tall.

Left Headlight - even better! Big move to start, cross, go out left, right hand into an undercling and bring your right foot high, rock over, and establish yourself for the committing pocket pulling up the high slab. Rad.

Quake - I had to stack pads to start... High, balancey, awesome.

Pain and Pleasure - "holy crap, I'm going to die" was my comment at the crux, much to the amusement of the christchurch climbers who were spotting me. The crux is right at the very top, but there is a massive uber jug just over the top. Its a good feeling when you snag it, and don't plummet to your death.

v5: The element - a bit polished, but great moves and powerful.

The Dominatrix - burly, weird body positions and a bit thuggy at the end.

The Supernatural - pocket pulling. Not too high and a bit soft? Good problem though, and a nice warm up for Opium.

Something on the Submarine boulder - its not in rock deluxe, but goes into the big pocket in between sonar and red october. The Spittle Hill guide says to go left into the slabby scoop, but there is a much better exit that requires a big high foot and a rock over to the right. A fell off trying the (high) rock over on my own and had a bit of an awkward fall, jarring my thumb. I stopped after that, but it would be much more sane with a spotter. Could probably do with a clean at the top.

v6: Tricky - 'nuff said.

On the edge - didn't do it, my excuse is that it was too hot. Great line though.

v7: Tuppi master - pulling your arse off the ground is the crux (and the only bit that detracts from its quality). Once you get on to it its a very cool problem.

Opium - must get stronger. So cool.



Has anyone tried Quantum Mechanics? Is that thing even possible?

mousey
4/10/2005
1:25:57 PM
i tried it and i dont reckon the move is that hard actually....its just so PAINFUL! if you have fresh tips on your left hand and lots of friction on your right you should get it (easier than tuppi and opium for sure)

alrob
4/10/2005
10:40:43 PM
On 4/10/2005 JCP wrote:
>i tried it and i dont reckon the move is that hard actually....its just
>so PAINFUL! if you have fresh tips on your left hand and lots of friction
>on your right you should get it (easier than tuppi and opium for sure)

yup! agree with it all, except it was harder then tuppi. i tired it on my last day, came close. maybe easier then opium, bummed i didn't try harder for that one
Duncan
5/10/2005
10:37:38 AM
I couldn't even pull on to it, even with a cheat stone.

Pictures here:
http://www.unswoc.org/gallery/album66?page=1

mousey
5/10/2005
4:38:08 PM
nice piccys cpt duncs, and HOW COOL IS ORIFICE FISH!!!!! whoooohooo just thinking about that problem amps me up to go climb! (except im too pumped because i just got back from the crag :D )


Super Saiyan
17/12/2005
12:07:29 AM
***BUMP***

9 Days til the Rampage begins!!!! :) Choice ey bro?

alrob
15/01/2006
3:06:35 PM
so how was it? fill us in on all the juicies!

kezza
15/01/2006
5:50:31 PM
It was RAD!
I ticked a handful of 3's and 4's and one 5. Which is HUGE for me as I've never really bouldered before! So it was fantastic!
The highlight for me was Beautiful Edges V4 at Spittle Hill. Unreal!
I didn't really have to work any problem for more than a day, so I guess I didn't push myself to my limit. But to climb everyday morning and night I seriously am not complaining with my achievments. 10 or so days at The Hill, 2 days back in Aus and I already want to go climbing again!!
We had a local who guided us around the fields putting us on great problems. I usually found out once I'd given up that the problem was a V5! Damn you Hobi!!!
Craigieburn Shelter was booming by the time we left! Crammed with crazy Keas and people who blew stuff up for shits and giggles!
Damn Keas ate our tent on the VERY VERY last night we stayed there!
Word of advice: Don't feed the Keas. (they like yoghurt)
Not many pics to show cause for one we left our camera with friends who trotted off to do the tourist thing, and for two when we got the camera back the battery was flat. But that's okay, another reason to go back!!
Many afternoons spent in Springfield, and the cafe with the internet makes the BEST hot chocolate ever!! And Pumpkin/Spinach Burger!
To all that have yet to experience bouldering at Castle Hill, You just gotta do it!!!!!
Over to you James you ticking machine!

Super Saiyan
15/01/2006
11:05:20 PM
V7 Tuppi Master (5 Shots)

V6 The Sorcerer's Apprentice (3 Shots)
V6 Tricky (5 Shots)

V5 Supernatural (Flash)

V4 Quake (Flash)
V4 Submarine Arete (Flash)
V4 The Tonic (Flash)
V4 Millipede (Flash)
V4 Project Wall Area Dyno (Flash)
V4 Project Wall Area Mantle (Flash)
V4 The Cauldron (2 Shots)
V4 Torpedo (3 Shots)
V4 Pain and Pleasure (3 Shots)
V4 Jam and Spoon (4 Shots)

V3 Fission (Flash)
V3 Bingo (Flash)
V3 Tricky Boulder Scoop (Flash)
V3 Tuppi Arete (Flash)
V3 Smiley Face (Flash)
V3 Sidepull Problem One Move Boulder Area (Flash)
V3 Sidepull Problem One Move Boulder Area (Flash)
V3 Arete Opposite Yoga Master (Flash)

plus a million V1s, 2s and 0s

Clean Up List

V9 The Outcast
V7 Opium
V6 Short Black
V6 Future Proof

mousey
15/01/2006
11:23:41 PM
cool list......errr how about some war stories dude?

Super Saiyan
16/01/2006
8:38:13 AM
that was all i could manage at 11pm! lol ill post a more detailed report soon...

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 79
There are 79 messages in this topic.

 

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