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Buffalo Aid Weekend Nov 22-23 2014 |
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29-Aug-2014 10:48:44 AM
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Probably will be working that weekend if I can't get some shift swapped but i've a bit of aid gear that could be lent if needed. Ascenders, Aiders, etc.
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29-Aug-2014 11:32:05 AM
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I thought you'd be dying to reenact your prior ascent of Ozi...see you tomorrow.
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1-Sep-2014 10:14:27 AM
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On 29/08/2014 phillipivan wrote:
>Where are you going Sam?
Mt Tateyama in the Japanese alps to go ski touring. Though, it's Chockstone, so I'll say "ski mountaineering" to make it sound more impressive.
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20-Sep-2014 3:28:32 PM
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euce is likely to attend the aidfest but needs etts & jumars/equivalent.
Anyone Melb based that can loan her some for the weekend?
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20-Sep-2014 4:43:26 PM
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I'll be needing the same for the weekend to borrow or buy.
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21-Sep-2014 8:39:01 PM
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On 20/09/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>euce is likely to attend the aidfest but needs etts & jumars/equivalent.
>
>Anyone Melb based that can loan her some for the weekend?
Yes, I'm unlikely to be making it up to this aidfest, so am happy to loan out my etts, ascenders and a haulbag if anyone is sufficiently masochistic to wish to practice that aspect. Feel free to PM me.
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19-Oct-2014 8:42:11 PM
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Hi all. Looks like I am defiantly going to make it up to this weekend. Currently planning to drive up Friday morning and then back Sunday afternoon. Don't have any aid experience and don't really know any other climbers from chock stone as just arrived to live in Melbourne from the uk.
I am happy to tag along with people or buddy up and and belay and learn as I go and maybe lead a couple of short easy aid routes / pitches if the chance arises. I have a decent lead rack and a couple of single ropes helmet etc. but would need to buy or borrow specific aid gear.
If I was going to make some initial purchases what would be the minimum gear needed ?
Do I need to book a camp spot or can I share with some other chockstoners ? Happy to chip in dollar or make some food to contribute.
If some one is looking for a belay on a specific project let me know.
Also happy to offer lift if any one needs ?
Owen aka monkey b.
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19-Oct-2014 10:04:58 PM
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>If I was going to make some initial purchases what would be the minimum
>gear needed ?
Etts, daisies, jumars, Fifi.
>Do I need to book a camp spot or can I share with some other chockstoners
>?
I've booked sat. Will book a few other nights now I have a clearer idea how long I will be up there. Happy to share campsite/booking costs.
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23-Oct-2014 2:33:12 PM
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On 19/10/2014 Phillipivan wrote:
Re MonkeyBoy wrote on 19/10/2014
>>If I was going to make some initial purchases what would be the minimum
>>gear needed ?
>
>
>Etts, daisies, jumars, Fifi.
>
>>Do I need to book a camp spot or can I share with some other chockstoners
>>?
>
>I've booked sat. Will book a few other nights now I have a clearer idea
>how long I will be up there. Happy to share campsite/booking costs.
Monkeyboy, I can bring spare etts, and you can improvise daisies with light cord, and a fifi with taped open krab.
It would be good if you have your own ascenders.
Please let me know beforehand, otherwise they will be left at home!
PI, have you booked Fri night? ... and/or maybe Sunday night??
~> I think we are all relying on your booking + poaching any adjoining sites if neccessary!
;-)
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23-Oct-2014 2:37:23 PM
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Still just booked the Sat, I will change that this evening.
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23-Oct-2014 3:32:01 PM
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>
>Monkeyboy, I can bring spare etts, and you can improvise daisies with
>light cord, and a fifi with taped open krab.
>It would be good if you have your own ascenders.
>Please let me know beforehand, otherwise they will be left at home!
No problem, I will absolutely let you know. With regards to ascenders what do people use ? I will see if I can get some.
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23-Oct-2014 4:24:04 PM
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On 23/10/2014 MonkeyBoy wrote:
>
>>
>>Monkeyboy, I can bring spare etts, and you can improvise daisies with
>>light cord, and a fifi with taped open krab.
>>It would be good if you have your own ascenders.
>>Please let me know beforehand, otherwise they will be left at home!
>
>No problem, I will absolutely let you know. With regards to ascenders
>what do people use ? I will see if I can get some.
The Petzl ones are great, I had a play with the BD ones and don't like them as much. Maybe put a post up asking for some second hand ones?
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23-Oct-2014 5:00:06 PM
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OK... and this may seem obvious but I have never actually used an ascender before, only prussics and then only in practice situation, do you need a left and a right ?
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23-Oct-2014 5:42:06 PM
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Generally yes, though there is the odd ambidextrous model. A good set of ascenders will make the going considerably easier than prussics.
On the whole favourite model thing, I reckon, like 98% of climbing gear preferences people prefer what they are used to. The folks I know with BDs like em; same goes for Petzl, Camp, SRTs, or what have you old school jumars. All will get you up a rope far easier than a couple three loops of 6mm cord.
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23-Oct-2014 6:05:21 PM
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I've just retired my 28 year-old jumars. It occurred to me that the safety-catches on them are hard plastic and I thought about what other things I depend on to keep me alive that are plastic and over 20 years old. I couldn't think of anything else and decided that I don't want to die if a little piece of plastic suddenly gives up the ghost after nearly 30 years.
I got new Petzls - didn't like the way the BDs handled.
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24-Oct-2014 12:14:57 PM
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I'm on the ascender mission too Monkeyboy. Found some good prices on Petzl; lowest being $75 from http://www.ropengear.com.au/petzl-ascension-ascender
Also saw affordable ascenders from Kong, Climb Tech, and Fixe, does anyone have experience of these?
Any of the AU online traders to avoid? — can't use my preferred Rock Hardware as Steve is out of stock.
Found ascenders, just have to find the cash!
Also into secondhand ascenders if anyone has some.
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24-Oct-2014 12:18:58 PM
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Fixe ones are shit, the latch can lock up easily. Spend an extra $10.
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24-Oct-2014 5:49:36 PM
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Yeah climbing anchors seems to have good prices and good stock levels. One more question, is a gri gri needed ? I have always used a reverso and it has always covered every thing I have needed.
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24-Oct-2014 8:39:45 PM
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On 23/10/2014 kieranl wrote:
>I've just retired my 28 year-old jumars. It occurred to me that the safety-catches
>on them are hard plastic and I thought about what other things I depend
>on to keep me alive that are plastic and over 20 years old. I couldn't
>think of anything else and decided that I don't want to die if a little
>piece of plastic suddenly gives up the ghost after nearly 30 years.
>I got new Petzls - didn't like the way the BDs handled.
Fair dinkum?
My jumars are way older than that (40+ yrs) and still going strong...
On 24/10/2014 MonkeyBoy wrote:
>One more question, is a gri gri needed ? I have always used a reverso and
>it has always covered every thing I have needed.
>
No, as long as you continue to pay attention while belaying.
;-)
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25-Oct-2014 8:30:14 AM
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I'll take your retired jumars then Kieranl!
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