Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

Poll Option Votes Graph
Yes - and I like listening to old people talk 13
62% 
Yes - and I like listening to young people cry 6
29% 
Yes - but I struggle to form cohesive opinions. 1
5% 
No - there is no option 'no', try a different poll 1
5% 

 Page 3 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 106
Author
Buffalo Aid Weekend Nov 22-23 2014

JMK
25-Oct-2014
9:03:06 AM
If you have never belayed someone on hard aid then you don't know how exciting that is. The only thing that can control the intensity of the experience is something like. Gri gri

IdratherbeclimbingM9
25-Oct-2014
6:51:26 PM
On 25/10/2014 JMK wrote:
>If you have never belayed someone on hard aid then you don't know how exciting
>that is. The only thing that can control the intensity of the experience
>is something like. Gri gri

,,, or almost anything/nothing if it is a protectionless FF2 situation where you are likely to wear the falling leader....
~> If you want further clarification then just ask Ben_E about his belay experience on the last BuffAidFest.

If circumstances permit my attempt at an M8/M9 maybe even M10 (I don't know, as it is 'kind of' a ground up ascent that looks like multiple hook moves with no protection, and only 'thin' pro below that...), on the upcoming weekend, then whoever belays me on it will likely find it exciting...
;-)
kieranl
26-Oct-2014
1:22:38 PM
On 24/10/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 23/10/2014 kieranl wrote:
>>I've just retired my 28 year-old jumars. It occurred to me that the safety-catches
>>on them are hard plastic and I thought about what other things I depend
>>on to keep me alive that are plastic and over 20 years old. I couldn't
>>think of anything else and decided that I don't want to die if a little
>>piece of plastic suddenly gives up the ghost after nearly 30 years.
>>I got new Petzls - didn't like the way the BDs handled.
>
>Fair dinkum?
>My jumars are way older than that (40+ yrs) and still going strong...
>
So are mine but I'm retiring them while I'm ahead.
The catches don't appear to be brittle but it's old plastic so it's a risk. There probably won't be any warning before failure. The risk is probably controllable on dynamic ropes by keeping tied in short. But I do most of my jugging while preparing routes on my static rope so the prospect of even a short fall if the jumars pop off the rope isn't good.
So I'm OK to give TimP my old jugs (have PMd) given that he'll be using them for following aid.
TimP
26-Oct-2014
4:58:57 PM
Thanks Kieranl. I'm checking out aid climbing so if I get into it will get some new gear, I'm sure I'll only be following for now, and definitely tying in short. Will PM you. Cheers Tim.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
27-Oct-2014
10:37:09 PM
On 26/10/2014 kieranl wrote:
>Snip The catches don't appear to be brittle but it's old plastic so it's a
>risk. There probably won't be any warning before failure. The risk is probably
>controllable on dynamic ropes by keeping tied in short. But I do most of
>my jugging while preparing routes on my static rope so the prospect of
>even a short fall if the jumars pop off the rope isn't good. snip

It sounds like you don't use backup safety tethers attaching them independently to your harness?
I think it an unlikely scenario that both jumars would "pop off" at the same time, unless ascending a 'traversing' rope and twisting them badly and simultaneously, however I respect your decision.
By the way, I often jumar using a technique that utilises three, so I can alternate between leapfrog and ropewalk methods as required, making it more unlikely to 'pop off' x 3.


kieranl
28-Oct-2014
9:14:22 AM
On 27/10/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>It sounds like you don't use backup safety tethers attaching them independently
>to your harness?
Of course I tether each jug to my harness. Not sure why you got the impression that I don't.

>I think it an unlikely scenario that both jumars would "pop off"
>at the same time, unless ascending a 'traversing' rope and twisting them
>badly and simultaneously, however I respect your decision.
Yes it's very unlikely but weird things happen.
The major reason is that I've realised that my old jugs have a potential problem with a critical safety component. That potential is unlikely to be realised but there's an easy fix (apart from stopping jumaring) - spend a bit of money on a new set. Given that my life hangs on them it was an easy decision.

phillipivan
31-Oct-2014
9:50:36 AM
Site 12, booked for Fri -> Sun nights under my name.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
31-Oct-2014
11:28:28 AM
Thanks pi. Your site will likely be cosy for those wanting to defray costs.
Pat's tent-mahal* if it comes and is erected, due its size will have ferals all over its floor!

* Photo from last Aidfest~
Pat's Tajent Mahal (background) and nearby slum area...



On 28/10/2014 kieranl wrote:
>On 27/10/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>It sounds like you don't use backup safety tethers attaching them independently
>>to your harness?
>Of course I tether each jug to my harness. Not sure why you got the impression that I don't.
>
From prior knowledge of your posts over the years I figured you did, but your recent words like;
>>I've just retired my 28 year-old jumars. It occurred to me that the safety-catches
>>on them are hard plastic and I thought about what other things I depend
>>on to keep me alive that are plastic and over 20 years old. I couldn't
>>think of anything else and decided that I don't want to die if a little
>>piece of plastic suddenly gives up the ghost after nearly 30 years.
... sounded a bit dramatic to me☺, ... especially given that you'd still be caught by the 2nd jumar if one did pop; hence my use of 'sounds like'...
Thanks for recycling them to TimP !

Pat
31-Oct-2014
12:26:01 PM
Ferals welcome, but sadly the quarter acre dream won't be there, another engagement booked before you posted the date. However, I still have a collapsible recycling bucket left behind by one of the guys from last year. Anyone remember who it belonged to - happy to return to rightful owner.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
31-Oct-2014
12:34:16 PM
On 31/10/2014 Pat wrote:
>Ferals welcome, but sadly the quarter acre dream won't be there, another
>engagement booked before you posted the date.
:(

>However, I still have a collapsible recycling bucket left behind by one of the guys from last year. Anyone remember who it belonged to - happy to return to rightful owner.

I think it was The Gymp's (logs into Chocky from time to time), or maybe his mate Thommo (not a Chockyite to my memory).
I got the impression along the way sometime afterwards that they weren't overly concerned about it going missing, but no longer have the PM involved to confirm...

phillipivan
31-Oct-2014
1:47:43 PM
Pat, but you stand to miss another opportunity to hang shit on me for months!

Pat
1-Nov-2014
1:57:23 PM
Thanks Rod,

will contact him to see if he wants it back.

On 31/10/2014 phillipivan wrote:
>Pat, but you stand to miss another opportunity to hang shit on me for months!

Still have enough material noted up to last a couple more years:)

but seriously, will only hang it on you when I have completed the same single day ascent and second day descent in better form. You'll be safe for a little while yet . . .
Dave_S
6-Nov-2014
5:53:13 PM
I'm keen to join this trip. Have never aided before, but after seeing Valley Uprising I have an urge to move towards being able to do some big wall stuff. Urges aside, I also have a trad rack, climbing rope and static rope, and can get myself some ets, ascenders, daisies, hooks, etc.

Camp sites apparently fit 6 people - phillipivan, is there still space available in yours? I'm happy to chip in for booking costs.

Also, is anyone car-pooling? I've got an LPG stationwagon that'll comfortably take up to 3 climbers with gear.

ChuckNorris
6-Nov-2014
6:47:37 PM
Despite my better judgement I might be able to join this trip. Anyone able to stay for the following week (to do some real climbing)?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6-Nov-2014
9:35:13 PM
On 6/11/2014 Stugang wrote:
>Despite my better judgement I might be able to join this trip.

. *


























.*

(*Nothing there. Too stunned for words.
Maybe simey was right in the Never Ending Trip Report, about Fatherstugang Familyanallthatstuff?
Heh, heh, heh).



>Anyone able to stay for the following week (to do some real climbing)?

CJ might still be up there if he hasn't freed Ozy by then?
You might be able to inveigle some-one into belaying you** if you want to have a crack at it yourself anyway, or swap leads with an aider (one coming from Qld to give it a go), for the pitches you can't free?
(** Fancy that, someone who likes aids holding your rope... Hehx3)

Other than that I know PI is likely staying till mid-week.
I may be able to squeeze Monday in...

phillipivan
6-Nov-2014
11:25:40 PM
I'm not entirely clear how many are expecting to stay on the site I've booked and paid for. If it's full then I'm sure we can probably snaffle another site.

I'll be there till at least Tuesday and some of that time will free climb.

Perhaps it's time for a roll call of who is actually going to attend. Good intentions, paved roads, and all the rest...

TimP
7-Nov-2014
7:16:40 AM
I'm going. Got a site booked — not sure how big the sites are; bringing my family but there might be space for others on our patch. Will have my rack & rope so also up for non-aid climbing over the weekend if I can't wrangle enough aid gear or an experienced aid partner… I've not climbed aid before.

MonkeyBoy
7-Nov-2014
10:35:25 AM


>Perhaps it's time for a roll call of who is actually going to attend.
>Good intentions, paved roads, and all the rest...

Kicking off the roll call

I am going to head up friday early and probably have to leave by Sunday midday - Dont have any climbing buddies or routes picked out so if anyone wants to buddy up Friday or Saturday let me know. Happy to get out on some easier trad or follow harder or follow some aid and learn through observation.

MonkeyBoy
7-Nov-2014
10:37:57 AM

>
>Monkeyboy, I can bring spare etts, and you can improvise daisies with
>light cord, and a fifi with taped open krab.
>It would be good if you have your own ascenders.
>Please let me know beforehand, otherwise they will be left at home!
>

M9 - got hold of some jumars, a fifi and have a couple of daisies so if you could bring your spare ets that would be ace...Definitely coming along
Damo milo
7-Nov-2014
6:28:40 PM
Got enough room for one more? Will bring the portaledge and camp out on that. First time in the area so keen to belay and jug until I get a feel for the place. Am in the area for work so won't have a full rack. Packing this weekend. I assume loads of small cams and wires r the preference?

 Page 3 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 106
There are 106 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints