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Visiting Climber to Sydney Area
11:59:53 AM
Hey everyone,

I have absolutely no idea if I'm in the right forum, so I hope so. My girlfriend and I are headed to Australia for about 3 weeks or so(end of May). We are flying into Sydney and staying in the general area for about 5 days. We plan on spending a couple of days climbing Blue Mountains(?)..I haven't bought a guidebook yet, cause I don't want to pay an arm and a leg for shipping. How many draws are recommended for sport routes there? I'd like to leave my trad rack at home, but if the trad climbing is absolutely rad there, i'll bring some, opinions? Is a 60m rope standard there, or should I bring a 70m?

Also, we will be flying out of Brisbane, any recommendations for climbing between Sydney and Brisbane, or just surf? :)

Lastly, if anyone wouldn't mind meeting up and hanging out/climbing, we'd def like to hang out with some local climbers, we climb into the 11s sport and 10s trad(sorry, don't know Aus grades, yet...). We'd be happy to repay the favor if you ever come to California to climb...

Take care,
1:40:58 PM
In the 11's (ie 21-25ish) you should find quite a bit of Bluies sport to keep you going for 5 days. Most routes are 20-30m and need 8-12 draws.

I could be wrong but I don't think there is much on the way down from Bris.

This should give you a good overview until you are out here and can buy a guide in one of the many climbing shops:

5:47:49 AM
Where are you based in California? I'm in AWESOME San Francisco and would be happy to lend you my Aussie guidebooks if you'd like. DM me if that works.

10:52:38 PM
Depending if you just want to climb single pitch sport or hit some of the longer routes, take about 10-15 draws, a 60m rope & be prepared to shell out $50 for the guidebook & $50 for "Bolt Plates" - you'll hear about em when you get here.
The blueys is not famous for it's Trad, but there are a few nice routes & great trad crags.

Best bet is get a taxi from the Airport ot St Peters Climbing Gym (or the train) - there's bound to be climbers and staff there who will offer a multitude of opinions & recommendations. And if you're super lucky you'll score a guided tour and maybe even a couch to crash on. Failing that catch a train to Town Hall, walk to Mountain Equipment on Kent St where you can buy the above mentioned "Bolt Plates" & talk to the staff there.

Otherwise just rock up to Blackheath carpark & look for crusty people in approach shoes with over-flowing backpacks & ask if you can tag along.
10:56:37 PM
On 17/04/2014 alleyehave wrote:
>Also, we will be flying out of Brisbane, any recommendations for climbing
>between Sydney and Brisbane, or just surf? :)

I've climbed at Coffs Harbour and it's quite nice, there's small crags all the way up to Brissy... though if you're driving north over a week or so you'd probably be better off surfing & do all your climbing in the Blueys. Too much hassle finding the crags & recommendations etc. - the beaches are easy to find!
12:50:21 PM
Thanks for all the replies guys, lots of great info. I think we are pretty set on doing Sweet Dreams...can anyone give any info on a rack for someone very comfortable at the grade? I'm trying to reduce the amount of s$&% i have to bring for obvious reasons :)

Thanks again...

1:58:08 PM
On 13/05/2014 alleyehave wrote:
>Thanks for all the replies guys, lots of great info. I think we are pretty
>set on doing Sweet Dreams...can anyone give any info on a rack for someone
>very comfortable at the grade? I'm trying to reduce the amount of s$&%
>i have to bring for obvious reasons :)
>Thanks again...

If you are very comfortable at the grade it'll be fine all on carrots. Maybe one set of large to medium wires for comfort, and a few alpine draws. It's been further retrobolted recently but let's not get into that.

Buladelah and Armidale could be worth looking into as stops between sydney and brissie. The store is on the north coast and they'd be people to talk to.
3:10:34 PM
On 13/05/2014 alleyehave wrote:
>set on doing Sweet Dreams...can anyone give any info on a rack for someone
>very comfortable at the grade? >

I seem to recall a couple of medium wires on the first pitch or two, and some similar gear up the final corner. 'Twas a while ago now though. I'd suggest Rocks #3-8 plus a couple of medium cams.

E. Wells
6:17:41 PM
Rack for 'sweet dreams'
8 bolt plates (PFH 90 degree)
10 quickdraws. (make sure top biner is solid gate as wiregate can slip off bolt plate)
#0.5 cam
#2 cam
#3 cam
A medium wire.
A few slings.

This is a rack I use to do the climb with Grade 17 (mostly bolted) alternate last pitch. If you were to do the corner to finish maybe add a few larger wires and a #1 cam.
Each belay has ring bolts.
Most of the keyhole hanger boltplates are for the traversing pitch. They are very straight forward to use.

12:28:34 AM
>> think we are pretty set on doing Sweet Dreams...

Sweet Dreams is a good route to introduce beginning climbers to their first multipitch. Other than that, I wouldn't really recommend it- I don't find it to be a particularly good climb, and its frequently crowded with beginners. There are other multipitch climbs in the Blues that are much more enjoyable.

If you're comfortable at 5.10a, look into Whymper (5 pitch grade 18). It starts just 10m to the left of Sweet Dreams, and has some excellent slab and arete climbing. It's fully bolted- mostly carrots. Also look into Bunny Bucket Buttress (8ish pitches grade 18, fully ring-bolted) and Hotel California (10 pitches grade 21, fully ring-bolted) which are at Pierces Pass. All of these are adventurous and beautiful classics.

E. Wells
6:27:26 AM
It is rare for any climb to be busy so long as you dont climb on weekends. I have S.D to myself mostly on weekdays. Tom Williams and Ian Brown did cruise past last week though. I had the displeasure of attempting an easy multi pitch last weekend and got stuck behind a group of 13(recreational group) using two ropes..had to back yes....avoid weekends.
5:03:19 AM
Awesome. I'm bringing a 60m rope, 13 quick draws, a set of med-large nuts, and the three largest link cams...

Any suggestions on camping? We will have a camper van...we fly out tonight! Can't wait! Thanks again!
9:12:52 AM
Blue Mountains - get the guidebook, it's got info.

Mt York has free camping; as does Megalong Valley south of Blackheath. Ask around, people will know.

Good luck - the weather is perfect so drive straight to the crag when you walk out of customs!

There are 13 messages in this topic.


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