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Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

Author
Grampians in February
Canadian Climber
10/01/2014
8:26:32 AM
Hi,

i just got a ticket to Melbourne. i arrive Feb 3rd and am staying the whole month. i'm coming directly from Tonsai (Thailand). I will be heading out to the Grampians for sure (and i'd be into going anywhere else too). My main focus of the trip will be climbing, but i'm staying with non-climbing friends in Melbourne and i'll probably end up surfing a bit too and learning to Kite Surf... That being said, climbing takes priority! i'll probably be going back and forth (from the crag back to Melbourne) many times though out the month. As i'm going to be on a bit of a tight schedule, when i do get to the crag i'll probably want to get straight down to business and try to climb. I'm hoping not to project anything on this trip; i'd prefer to try routes that i can do in a day and sample lots of cool stuff. The only route i want to try that might take longer than a day (or two) is Punks in the Gym. That's the first route i'd like to try.

i don't know my level in the Australian grading system? (i guess i'll have to look that up), but i'm usually comfortable doing 8b+ routes. Sorry, i don't really boulder, just looking to climb routes.

If you're around and psyched, drop me a line. Otherwise maybe i'll just see ya at the crag!?!

Have a good one!
Cheers,
SteveTownshend@hotmail.com

PS. i'd also like to check out the Arapiles and the Taipan Wall! Some classics there i'd like to get on for sure!
kieranl
10/01/2014
8:57:53 AM
Just a heads-up on Punks. It gets the morning sun and February is typically our hottest month so the rock gets quite warm and stays warm after the sun leaves it. So not the ideal month to be trying it but that's the time you've got. It's way above my pay grade so I can't give you any definitive strategies but I think when Martin Scheel was trying the FA he found the best time was first light so the rock has had all night to cool down and the air hasn't yet warmed up..
PDRM
Online Now
10/01/2014
9:02:19 AM
http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/GradeConversion.htm
peteclimbs
10/01/2014
10:37:06 AM
Hi Steve,

I'll let others comment on the climbing but as a keen surfer and kitesurfer, I can help out there a bit.

Surfing: No surf at all around Melbourne but world class surf 1.5 hours west (the surf coast, incl classics like Bells and Winkipop) and 1.5 hours east on Mornington Peninsula.

Depending on how much experience you have, what kind of waves you're chasing, and the prevailing wind/swell, there'll be something happening somewhere. Most of the surf coast really only works best with the wind W to NW winds. Mornington can handle a few different directions (almost everything except straight S). Even in summer the water is pretty chilly and if you're surfing for more than an hour or so you'll probably want some kind of wetsuit. For summer a spring suit (long legs, short sleeves).

Kitesurfing: If you're desperate you can kite on Port Phillip bay. To be honest though it's pretty shite. If you're serious about kiting head over to WA. If you've only got a month then just surf and climb I reckon.

Pete
Canadian Climber
11/01/2014
7:21:30 AM
Hi kieranl,
Thanks for the info about Punks! i have been told by others that it's NOT the best month to go try it. But it's the only time i have. I will likely try to walk in before sun-rise and try it as soon as it's light enough to see. If it's just too bad conditions then i'll move on. it's a short trip and i don't want to get stuck on one project (like i often do!). I just really want to see it/try it and if i feel like i can do it FAST then i'll put in some effort, if it's not do-able under existing conditions, i'll be happy i saw it and i'll move on (to the Taipan Wall i think!).

Pete, as for Surfing and Kiting. my experience is very little. But some friends of mine are in Melbourne Kiting now (they surf 10% and Kite 90%). they have extra gear for me to borrow (i have my own wet-suit i'm bringing). Water sports aren't really my expertise so i'll just be tagging along with them. i've surfed in Mexico and El Salvador but that's it, i'm a total beginner. My goal will be just to have fun when i can't climb. in terms of my level, i am a 6a surfer and a 5a kite-surfer and pretty good on any grade climbing.
Dave J
11/01/2014
10:20:36 AM
I agree with the hard in Feb sentiment. But the alpine start sounds like madness. As soon as the sun comes up it is in the full sun. It comes into shade around midday and has generally cooled as much as its likely to by 4pm. Start warming up around then and have a couple of shots around 6ish (It will be light until 10pm so that's plenty of time).

Taipan is the opposite coming into the sun around midday and you definitely want to be getting there as early as you can manage it.

On 11/01/2014 Canadian Climber wrote:
> I will likely try to walk in before sun-rise and try it as soon as it's light
>enough to see. If it's just too bad conditions then i'll move on. it's
>a short trip and i don't want to get stuck on one project (like i often
>do!). I just really want to see it/try it and if i feel like i can do
>it FAST then i'll put in some effort, if it's not do-able under existing
>conditions, i'll be happy i saw it and i'll move on (to the Taipan Wall
>i think!).
>
>Pete, as for Surfing and Kiting. my experience is very little. But some
>friends of mine are in Melbourne Kiting now (they surf 10% and Kite 90%).
> they have extra gear for me to borrow (i have my own wet-suit i'm bringing).
> Water sports aren't really my expertise so i'll just be tagging along
>with them. i've surfed in Mexico and El Salvador but that's it, i'm a
>total beginner. My goal will be just to have fun when i can't climb.
>in terms of my level, i am a 6a surfer and a 5a kite-surfer and pretty
>good on any grade climbing.
kieranl
11/01/2014
8:52:50 PM
On 11/01/2014 Dave J wrote:
>I agree with the hard in Feb sentiment. But the alpine start sounds like
>madness. As soon as the sun comes up it is in the full sun. It comes into
>shade around midday and has generally cooled as much as its likely to by
>4pm. Start warming up around then and have a couple of shots around 6ish
>(It will be light until 10pm so that's plenty of time).

I would definitely defer to Dave's advice. I probably got it totally arse-about.

There are 7 messages in this topic.

 

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