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Partner for easy Blueys multi-pitch day 24-30 Dec
5:15:00 AM
Hi there

I will be in the Blue Mountains over Christmas / New Year on a canyoning trip, and will also be doing some climbing. The friend I'm going with has stipulated a 'no multi-pitching rule' :-(.

I am keen to do one of the easy classics like Tom Thumb. Is anyone interested in joining me?



p.s. this is my first time in the Blueys. I have the guide, but will take suggestions on where to spend 4 days climbing, grades 14-20.
7:54:48 AM
Tom Thumb really catches the sun (summer) and the wind,(winter) so I'd only do that if it's cool.

Sweet Dreams is only just ok
Many of the routes at Narrowneck are good but get sun most of the day
Bunny Bucket Buttress is classic
2:56:39 PM
Try Bunny Bucket butress. Maybe even consider at alpine start so you are climbing in the shade for the majority.

3:13:17 PM
Dirty Rotten Pig, easy at 19 and with only about 5m of climbing at the grade on the 2nd pitch (and all pitches are shorter than advertised). Shady most of the day.

Bellbird Wall, hard at 18 but again only about 5m at the grade on the 2nd pith. Shady in the afternoon.

Wild is the Wind is a good hipster alternative to sweet dreams at 15. Trickier routefinding and more runout climbing though.

For BBB, alpine starts are defined as earlier then 4am, you definitely don't need one of those, just don't be a lazy softie that refuses to start until ten. Start at 6am and you can be off in the shade by 1pm for coffee and afternoon cragging/canyoning.
9:10:53 PM
I did TT a couple of weeks ago. We rapped in around 1030 and were off by 1430, so we missed a lot of the sun. We would have missed more if I hadn't run P3 and P4 together and got shocking rope drag, which slowed us down. 60m ropes are long enough to do this OK, but you need to either place only a few bits of pro in that 60m, or have *very* long slings on what you do clip.

Note that two of the three abseils in are a bit overhanging and quite long, so go accordingly prepared. I've never seen a route with so many ironstone edges chipped off - partly the rock, partly the traffic?

It's ages since I did Sweet Dreams, but as another thread on here discussed, it's really not that great a route and made me miss the West Wall of the Three Sisters, though that also had it's negatives, mainly a couple of bushy stretches.
3:24:14 PM
I'm keen for a couple of days. Maybe 29th and 30th. Just arrived in Sydney so I only have a harness and shoes but definitely up for it!
7:00:48 PM
Hi all

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. BBB looks good, but probably a bit hard for the length and probably would end up a very big day!

Someone told me that Tom Thumb needs smaller than usual bolt plates? Is this true? The guide doesn't mention it, and the friend who told me that hasn't actually climbed it.


7:41:01 PM
Actually probably bigger than usual, I think it's mostly 10mm glued in carrots, should be ok on std bolt plates, just take a few extra wires that you can pull the nut down and clip with.
Actually the mirrorball lower pitches (sport) are a good 18, and Darkside 14 (mixed) chimneys up the back of the same pinnacle, both get less sun than Tom Thumb (and have a 40 minute shorter approach)
4:50:49 PM

I am keen to get out over christmas. I am based in cremorne. I have all the gear and car.
I will climb 13 to 18. I am interested in doing classics.

call 0437302757 roger
12:07:58 AM
On 21/12/2013 mikllaw wrote:
>Actually probably bigger than usual,

Yep, I found them a bit tight with regular plates and the odd one wouldn't go over at all. They're not exactly desperate clipping positions so it wasn't really an issue! And I have a couple of different makes of plates.
11:37:04 AM
Darkside, Mirrorball, BBB (Pierces Pass) and Bellbird Wall are much better than TT and Sweet Dreams.
12:20:09 PM
Hi Michael,

I'm keen for multi pitch routes. I am also new to the area and not a grade chaser. I am 26 from Scotland been loving aussie climbing in the warmth!
get in touch 0404895342

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