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Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers
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|Araps(?) may 12-13, leaving ballarat/melbourne
On 30/04/2013 simey wrote:
Gosh you are a grump ... i was trying to point out what I see as a massive difference between comfortable at a grade and trying a grade.
>Making comparisons with yourself breaking into 27s is laughable given
>you have climbed one route at grade 27 after sieging the shit out of it
>for days. As for trying your damnedest to onsight 24 - well have you ever
>onsighted 24 at your home crag of Arapiles? You rarely even launch up 24s
>at Arapiles ground-up - they are usually top-roped and/or rap inspected
>with pre-placed gear. And I am guessing you wouldn't have even onsighted
>half the 22s you have climbed at Arapiles, yet alone the 23s.
f--- you really are a grump today - funnily enough, the reason i don't get to onsight 24 at the mt is I've followed or fallen off them before at some point in the last 22 years. I actually did get to onsight most stuff up to 22 cause at the time, i didn't have a climbing partner who could lead me up these things. Then I became spoilt by have more intrepid leaders than me around. Still, I think having onsighted 23s on 4 continents is not a bad amount of consistency. as much consistency as one can get between grading systems. You should go and play footy and cheer up. You don't really need to be told I can climb well enough really.
I just thought your comments were pretty weird compared to what the original poster had written. If someone says they are seconding 5.11a/b comfortably, it is pretty likely they can climb 5.9 but they might simply be nervous on the sharp end.
And then having questioned her comments about what she climbs comfortably you gave a detailed report on your climbing prowess which seemed completely out of context given that most of those higher grades (24-27) involve multi-day sieges and regular failures whilst the grades just below that (22-23) frequently involve a fall or two prior to successfully climbing them. I got the impression that Eleddy was simply talking about what she could climb, not what she could dog her way up after days of effort. (She is only here for two days!)
I do agree that prior to being injured you were comfortable leading grade 20 (even 21 and a number of 22s) at Arapiles.
On 30/04/2013 eleddy wrote:
>Thanks for all the responses. Interesting cultural diff popping up.
>Thanks for all the advice! I'm don't know much about the area at all and
>the trip is last minute.
Hi there, sorry about all the grade debate nonsense. At least we're keeping your quest for a partner on top of the page, right? :)
Anyway, already said, but probably go to Arapiles instead of the Grampians (lots of great routes close to the car, lower walking to climbing ratio, and minimal admin). If you can't find a partner on here, just go anyway. Araps has the best camp ground I've ever experienced for picking up partners (way more chilled and friendly than camp 4). If you can get into camp the evening before, that'll make things easier. Sounds like you're bringing a rack, go easy on the cams and don't forget your wires..........climbing down there has nothing to do with jamming up enduro crack pitches.
Have a good trip, you'll love it.
Thank you BTW - that is exactly the info I needed to know. I will head to Araps camp ground on Sunday night (maybe early mon morning) and hopefully I can find some people there for mon/tues climbing.
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