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Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

Author
bundaleer
f_abe
Online Now
8/03/2013
2:01:49 PM
I hope Iím not abusing my right to post by not inflicting personal abuse, ill informed opinions , or daring to prefer a certain style of climbing, but if you are in need of someone to climb with Iíll be at Bundaleer tomorrow and Sunday. The dude Iím meeting probably wonít rock up till after midday, so if anyone happens to be about earlier and would be keen to climb that would be good, if not no drama Ė Iíll just while away the morning replacing the carrot on Blimp with a fixed hanger and maybe putting in another a bit higher where it gets a bit too pumpy to place gear for my liking (some of the guides I spoke to in Halls Gap said this would be okay).
Alex
ademmert
8/03/2013
2:13:16 PM
Hi Alex Might be there tomorrow or Sun.
I will be the guy following you around chopping your bolts and all others ;o)
dalai
8/03/2013
2:34:42 PM
Retro Blimp???
BA
8/03/2013
2:44:19 PM
On 8/03/2013 f_abe wrote:

> Iíll just while away the morning replacing
>the carrot on Blimp with a fixed hanger and maybe putting in another a
>bit higher where it gets a bit too pumpy to place gear for my liking (some
>of the guides I spoke to in Halls Gap said this would be okay).
>Alex

If you like I can give you an email address for Bruno Zielke, the bloke who did the first ascent despite what is implied in Chris Dewhirst's interview on Chocky, which he would like edited by the way.

nmonteith
8/03/2013
3:05:35 PM
I hope this is a joke? PLEASE do not place new bolts on Blimp. The bolts currently there are ancient aid bolts from the 60s that should never be used at modern protection. It is a trad route - and climbed that way by generations of climbers. Chop the old bolts, or just leave the route alone.

davidn
8/03/2013
3:13:35 PM
Don't forget to claim your DCA shirt afterwards!
ademmert
8/03/2013
3:44:58 PM
On 8/03/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>I hope this is a joke? PLEASE do not place new bolts on Blimp. The bolts
>currently there are ancient aid bolts from the 60s that should never be
>used at modern protection. It is a trad route - and climbed that way by
>generations of climbers. Chop the old bolts, or just leave the route alone.

Its been fully equipped with ring bolts for a while now!!
dalai
8/03/2013
3:46:59 PM
On 8/03/2013 BA wrote:
>If you like I can give you an email address for Bruno Zielke, the bloke
>who did the first ascent despite what is implied in Chris Dewhirst's interview
>on Chocky, which he would like edited by the way.

I just read the article. What needs editing? It says that Bruno lead and Chris seconded...

The good Dr
8/03/2013
4:12:50 PM
On 8/03/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>I hope this is a joke? PLEASE do not place new bolts on Blimp. The bolts
>currently there are ancient aid bolts from the 60s that should never be
>used at modern protection. It is a trad route - and climbed that way by
>generations of climbers. Chop the old bolts, or just leave the route alone.

Too late for that. The last time I was there they had been changed!!

Macciza
8/03/2013
4:36:43 PM
A joke? An SCA initiative? Or both . . .

A joke, is the fact that I am still waiting to hear back from you for SCA access Niel . . .
And it's not at all funny . . ..
RK
8/03/2013
4:39:09 PM
Bruno lead it after several unsuccesful attempts by John Ewbank. Ewbank seconded the first ascent. Chris wasn't there on that weekend.

davidn
8/03/2013
4:46:13 PM
On 8/03/2013 Macciza wrote:
>A joke? An SCA initiative? Or both . . .
>
>A joke, is the fact that I am still waiting to hear back from you for
>SCA access Niel . . .
>And it's not at all funny . . ..

Macca, I hate to poke fun at someone's misfortune - and I do think it's unfortunate you've gotten no answer at all, but...

At least it gives you something to talk about other than Shai Hulud ;)
dalai
8/03/2013
4:57:46 PM
Thanks for the details RK.
Wendy
8/03/2013
5:07:52 PM
You forgot to mention they also said the anchor wasn't very convenient, and you should place one at 25m so they can toprope clients up it from the ground.
dalai
8/03/2013
5:50:20 PM
On 8/03/2013 Wendy wrote:
>You forgot to mention they also said the anchor wasn't very convenient,
>and you should place one at 25m so they can toprope clients up it from
>the ground.

Now there is an idea Wendy!

Pat
9/03/2013
9:39:32 AM
Not much of an idea - better to place it at 30m - use a 60m rope and provide 'full' value to the clients.

There are 16 messages in this topic.

 

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