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Author	Climb Gramps this Weekend....need lift!
ajfclark 20-Jul-2012 8:55:17 AM	It's because it's way easier to find a boulder problem I don't get scared on than it is to find routes. When I can keep the squirrels from running too fast I can climb ok, but I'm not very good at keeping them under wraps. Getting better at it, but it's a slow process for me.
shortman 20-Jul-2012 9:04:24 AM	I find that a big joint in the morning does wonders for keeping the squirrels at bay.
egosan 20-Jul-2012 9:16:28 AM	To be fair, Wendy, the single V7 under my belt I crush largely with my tall man beta.
anthonycuskelly 20-Jul-2012 9:30:31 AM	I'm at similar grades to the OP, and it's mainly about the squirrels (good term, that)... I don't get scared with my feet 1m off the ground. Still working on the mindgame, though I think my poor onsighting ability contributes, as it's easier to muck about with precise use of holds on a boulder. Wendy, I think the bouldering needs to be concentrated for it to do you much good... [/facetious] Interestingly (as a reversal from me) I found old-school UK climbers who couldn't boulder V2, but could lead E2... because of the style of move. Headspace was brilliant but technical ability wasn't (not saying my technical ability is any good though).
Jayford4321 20-Jul-2012 9:32:45 AM	On 19/07/2012 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote: >On 19/07/2012 Stugang. wrote: >>On 19/07/2012 El Jefe wrote: >>>On 19/07/2012 Stugang. wrote: >>>>On 19/07/2012 El Jefe wrote: >> >>>Could be fun, though be warned; I have more than one rope logbook, and >>>they're all short, skinny and wet noodle like:( >> >>Did you find that having more than one rope logbook increased the life >>of your ropes? > > >Will you two get a room, were in the middle of a good dick waggling session here. You offering your room? Be warned; you are only invited if you bring along that pointy thing your avatar is holoding. Between that and EJ's longlife ropes we should be able to work something out for you.
jezza 20-Jul-2012 9:58:04 AM	On 20/07/2012 Wendy wrote: >Are you trying to outcompete Muki for the title of selfrightous forum wanker, >Jeremy? I don't need to justify what i can climb to you - anyone who actually >climbs with me knows what I climb. I also climb with Andrew and Sol a >fair bit and know what they can climb, and my point is - there's a massive >discrepancy between bouldering and climbing grades on both sides. That's priceless, coming from Wendy, Queen of The Self-Right. When someone rocks your little world by challenging you Wendy, it doesn't make then self-righteous. As for her point about the 'massive discrepancy' - there isn't a massive discrepancy. Wendy compared her highest grade in her preferred style (projecting the shit out of something for weeks on pre-placed gear), vs my friend's highest on-sight grades. If you compare the same style, there's only a difference of a few grades. It wouldn't surprise me at all if Sol on-sighted Kachoong or Auto De Fe. There's a large difference in the bouldering grades though because they're good boulderers, and they spend a lot of time bouldering. They've only been doing it for five or so years vs Wendy's 20, but they've been doing it frequently. My friends don't need me to stick up for them, but it's annoying when some forum princess dis-es their climbing.
One Day Hero 20-Jul-2012 10:29:16 AM	On 20/07/2012 jezza wrote: > >My friends don't need me to stick up for them, but it's annoying when >some forum princess dis-es their climbing. Yeah Wendy, Sol and Andy are precious and delicate flowers. It's lucky that this Jezza dude is here to protect those fragile egos, so that your witcherous negativity doesn't dampen the shining beauty harboured within their breasts* *ye olde term for man-boobs
davidn 20-Jul-2012 10:29:19 AM	Is it really that astonishing that people's best sends are higher grades in styles they prefer or better suit them, Wendy? Aren't you pretty much an example of exactly that? Muki - you're doing a great job enticing more people to get into more trad. Really. As an aside, when you say you 'climb' 27 or V7, are you talking about being solid at the grade, could punch one out any given day? Because that's how I read it/think of it. I've climbed X, but it doesn't mean I climb X ...
Wendy 20-Jul-2012 10:52:29 AM	On 20/07/2012 One Day Hero wrote: > >Yeah Wendy, Sol and Andy are precious and delicate flowers. It's lucky >that this Jezza dude is here to protect those fragile egos, so that your >witcherous negativity doesn't dampen the shining beauty harboured within >their breasts* > >*ye olde term for man-boobs Andrew might get a bit delicate about being called andy though. And Jeremy seems to enjoy being rude to me at any opportunity he can get. Whatever makes him feel better. You can theorise about what people can climb all they like, Jeremy, Sol probably will be onsighting 21s sometime soon, he's on a great recovery from his back surgery and on the rock heaps. Andrew is facing up to being terrified and doing a great job too. You can even question what i climb as well, but I'm not that guy whom nobody seems to have belayed up his 9a. I'm out climbing a lot and have a perfectly respectable track record in the mid 20s. Maybe you've missed the fact that I travel a lot to climb and mostly onsight on those trips - the dogging frenzy comes from having onsighted my way through most of the feasible option at my home crag. It's actually good for your climbing and quite fun too. Maybe you should give it a go. So maybe I'm the only person in the world who thinks it might be a little strange that it's possible to climb anywhere between 23-27, dependant on how anal you want to be about how many attempts it takes, in a wide range of styles, rock types and locations and not be able to do v5s at my home crag. Rather than dissing the 3 examples I gave, I'm saying they can pull way harder individual moves than i can as they were off doing laps of Finalgon last week, which is far harder than their leading grade. So theoretically, that's moves you might find on 29ish? And I have the opposite problem to Andrew. Bouldering is scary. When you come off, you always hit the ground. Anyway, this guy that started the topic, despite the obvious grade discrepancy that I don't quite get, is obviously on a mission to do any sort of climbing he can (rather like Sol and Andrew) which we all know is this best way to get better, not to mention have lots of fun in the process, and I'd much rather be able to go climbing than be stuck arguing on chockstone with a fûcked shoulder.
anthonycuskelly 20-Jul-2012 11:37:01 AM	Apologies to the OP for continuing the thread drift, I get the impression for elsewhere that you may have found someone to go with though? Wendy, question out of curiousity (and being bored at work)... how long have you spent trying those V5s (at a given time)? Because I didn't even consistently do V1 until I went bouldering for over a week with a bunch of guys who boulder V7-V9, and I started to understand the approach they used (Which I can do on boulders now but not yet climbs).
One Day Hero 20-Jul-2012 1:08:58 PM	On 20/07/2012 anthonycuskelly wrote: >Wendy, question out of curiousity (and being bored at work)... how long >have you spent trying those V5s (at a given time)? Dude, you're focussing too much on grade and forgetting about style. Get Wendy onto some of those stupid off-width roof boulders you see in those Yankee videos, and she'll smash the shit out of V5. But back in the normal world of regular bouldering, where you grab small crimps, lock 'em down and reach..............being 5 foot tall with short arms and dodgy pulleys is something of a handicap. Not wanting to blow too much smoke up anyones arse, but I reckon a really under appreciated facet of being a good climber is diversity of styles. People like HB and Dave Jones might not have climbed numbers as big as a lot of other people, but check out the range of different stuff they put up. I almost reckon that the measure of how good you are isn't the hardest climb you can do, but the easiest climb you can't! Who gives a fuch if you can climb 28 at South Central. If there's a gr16 offwidth at Buffalo that shuts you down, you're a gr15 climber :)
anthonycuskelly 20-Jul-2012 1:37:49 PM	Hah, true. I was just curious if the lack of V5 was just a lack of patience. Ability to climb different styles is a good point... but I'm really about a grade 15 climber either way.
One Day Hero 20-Jul-2012 1:43:56 PM	Hmmmm, having been on a few route dogging missions with Wendy, I can assure you that lack of patience isn't the issue.
Wendy 20-Jul-2012 1:58:03 PM	Fûck, Damo, I'm a grade 15 climber! I'm reduced to tears and downclimbing by unprotected grade 16 slabs! Anthony, I probably could put more consistent work into them, but I've had a reasonable bash at a few different times of my life at more than a few of the popular ones at the mount, and they generally feel insurmountably hard - small holds that hurt my fingers, big moves i can't crank. Not even progressing kind of hard. But I can usually do v3 first go. That is, if I don't get terribly scared and downclimb! The moves on v5 just seem desperate - way harder than the moves on most 25s I've been on. Another point on Dave - he could climb grades pretty consistent with what he could boulder too. I dare say if he got his rope out more often these day, he still would.
anthonycuskelly 20-Jul-2012 2:18:51 PM	ODH - patience at one's preferred style is a little different... I last about 5 seconds with slabs and those horrible little crimps. Wendy - interesting, because I find the same issue on a lot of climbs (especially ones with crimps). Weak fingers, lack of technique, and (relatively) high body mass mean I give up in a hurry.
simey 20-Jul-2012 2:39:06 PM	On 20/07/2012 One Day Hero wrote: >I almost reckon that the measure of how good you are isn't the hardest >climb you can do, but the easiest climb you can't! Who gives a fuch if >you can climb 28 at South Central. If there's a gr16 offwidth at Buffalo >that shuts you down, you're a gr15 climber :) Well put Damo, although maybe you need to have failed on a handful of routes in that grade range to get a true and accurate reading.
One Day Hero 20-Jul-2012 2:45:53 PM	On 20/07/2012 Wendy wrote: >Fûck, Damo, I'm a grade 15 climber! I'm reduced to tears and downclimbing >by unprotected grade 16 slabs! > Haha, I think I'm stuck at gr9 or 10 courtesy of Concrete Coffin. It's that shocking looking chimney thing near Julius Caesar on Orroral Ridge. Put up in the 70's by occasional chockstoner Ithomas, I don't know anyone under 40 who's even tried to climb it.
muki 20-Jul-2012 4:08:14 PM	On 20/07/2012 jezza wrote: >On 20/07/2012 Wendy wrote: >>Are you trying to outcompete Muki for the title of selfrightous forum >wanker wendy I was merely pointing out that the use of the word "beginner" in the post was possibly a bit hypocritical given the OP's experience level, and was the cause of the flaming he had received, I wasn't flaming simply pointing it out to him, I then actively encouraged him to get out and climb more . I think you might be guilty of being what you accuse me of "self righteous" when touting grades you have climbed and then saying others should be climbing harder, comes across as arrogant to me?. as is demonstrated by the anger and name calling in your posts, when I've simply encouraged the OP to get more climbing under his belt, and the response by others on this forum to your posts is evidence as well, do what I do, and go for a climb and have some fun. and mellow out a bit, the ranting on and on and name calling seems juvenile. cheer up a bit :)
Wendy 20-Jul-2012 4:21:32 PM	Hey Muki, sorry, i have changed my original post, I shouldn't have dragged your name into it, it was Jeremy being rude to me. I was having a grump of a morning. Possibly because I can't go out for a climb and have fun because my arm is in a sling post shoulder surgery. I'm not saying they should climb harder, i'm saying it's odd that the grades are so discrepant (note this conversation started from almost the start of the thread) and I seem to have the opposite problem. Why I'm accused of boosting my own ego when I'm consistently saying I'm a crap boulderer, I don't know. I'll remember to boast next time I fail to get up a sport route because the bolts are too far apart as well.
anthonycuskelly 20-Jul-2012 4:37:40 PM	ODH, on simey's version that doesn't count because it's only one route. I like this definition though.

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