Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop

DMM: Renegade SIZE LARGE. (2013 model) - Red piping... Adjustable Padded Harness, 7 Gear Loops Fits: Waist: 87-104cm Legs:55-70 cm N/B Waist belt padding floats - Awesome design IMO. Only 1 left!  $99.00
34% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

 Page 6 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 114
Author
2nd Buffalo learn aid-climbing w/e 20-21 Nov 2010

ambyeok
24/11/2010
3:11:32 PM
On 24/11/2010 robertsonja wrote:
>Two number 5 camalots would be a minimum to aid the business.

Sounds like two 5" nuts would be a minimum to free the business.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
24/11/2010
3:12:45 PM
On 24/11/2010 robertsonja wrote:
>On 24/11/2010 singersmith wrote:
>>Is that the business bit (24) of Country Road?
>
>That is the business, the first roof just right of belay is also a little
>bit funky. Unfortunately the wine bottle was empty, but still a really
>nice climb. Two number 5 camalots would be a minimum to aid the business.
>
... said he who grabbed the coveted 3rd aid ascent of Australias 1st 24 !
~> Simey has really missed his opportunity on this one!! Heh, heh, heh.

@ singersmith
here.].
(Photo: courtesy of A. Secomb.)
is another perspective of the same climb for your interest.


Fish Boy posted some pics...
Good stuff.
~> They tell a story, but I am still waiting to see someone post a trip report that maybe gives feedback to enthuse (or turn off?), others who may still be considering doing some aid sometime in the future,... as I am biased and people only gave me positive feedback!
Wendy
24/11/2010
4:34:24 PM
On 24/11/2010 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

>
>@ singersmith
>here.
>.
>(Photo: courtesy of A. Secomb.)
> is another
>perspective of the same climb for your interest.
>
>
How many ropes do you need to aid that thing? There's almost a spider's web of them in that shot.

robertsonja, what state's the climb in? Super grotty? Tree massively in the way? I'm hoping to get on it in January. Free. Outside of this thread, I wouldn't normally need to elucidate on that one!
robertsonja
24/11/2010
4:55:36 PM
On 24/11/2010 Wendy wrote:
>robertsonja, what state's the climb in? Super grotty? Tree massively
>in the way? I'm hoping to get on it in January. Free. Outside of this
>thread, I wouldn't normally need to elucidate on that one!

The top third of the crack gets a little bit mossy but with your repertoire it should be no issues. The tree is Deadwood and is a real c*#cksucker. The belay has a dodgy 8mm fixed hanger, plus a rusty carrot with attached empty wine bottle, plus an old bong (not one of Fish Boy's) next to a 6ft bomber crack - go figure!
bl@ke
24/11/2010
7:44:33 PM
On 24/11/2010 ajfclark wrote:
>Upload it to youtube, then copy the embed code?

Bugger that. I struggle with Word.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
24/11/2010
9:32:03 PM
On 24/11/2010 Wendy wrote:
>How many ropes do you need to aid that thing? There's almost a spider's
>web of them in that shot.

One would be enough.

In the photo it was roped solo as part of practise for a bigger route.
One rope is dynamic for leading and has a backup loop, hence more than one strand off the harness.
The other rope is a haul-line-static and is redirected (still clipped), to the first belay to facilitate back-roped cleaning of the climb, with it's tail hanging down the first pitch that is offset from the second pitch.



>robertsonja, what state's the climb in? Super grotty? Tree massively
>in the way? I'm hoping to get on it in January. Free. Outside of this
>thread, I wouldn't normally need to elucidate on that one!

I am surprised that you are bothering to read this thread Wendy.

As an aside; if ever I was to go to the trouble of training ,and maybe redpointing a climb that is grades harder than I normally climb; then this is the one that inspires me the most, as it looks to be short and sweet for the grade!
~> Who knows, I may give it a shot some time...


Wendy
25/11/2010
7:14:27 AM
On 24/11/2010 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

>
>I am surprised that you are bothering to read this thread Wendy.

but there were pretty photos ...

>
>As an aside; if ever I was to go to the trouble of training ,and maybe
>redpointing a climb that is grades harder than I normally climb; then this
>is the one that inspires me the most, as it looks to be short and sweet
>for the grade!
>~> Who knows, I may give it a shot some time...
>☺

i reckon now is a good time, you could clean it up for me before january! i've been put off it for years in the knowledge that Steve Monks fell off it. Not a good sign!
>
>
singersmith
25/11/2010
12:16:09 PM
Hmm, hard to get a grasp of the angle but looks like there's a no hands rest between the roofs. #5's, sounds like good knees and hand stacks. I'll probably get on it sometime during the holidays. I'll be sure to scrub the messy bits and assess the structural integrity of the tree, Wendy. Unless of course you wanted to come on up sooner?
Wendy
25/11/2010
3:27:50 PM
if it gets stupidly hot and i have no better plans, maybe ... otherwise, i'm booked in for jan 21-30.

ambyeok
25/11/2010
4:00:53 PM
"good" and "hand stacks" is something you dont hear every day.
Fish Boy
25/11/2010
5:12:36 PM
If I'm up there I'll give you a second, but i'll struggle....
bl@ke
25/11/2010
7:28:54 PM

Fish Boy on Premiere M5


Bigwall Brunching


The brown patch is where a big chunk came off and nearly took out robertsonja


egosan on his M6 creation from last time

bl@ke
25/11/2010
8:08:54 PM


bones getting some air

IdratherbeclimbingM9
25/11/2010
9:59:41 PM

>egosan on his M6 creation from last time

Interesting shot and good to see it, though it doesn't show the first pitch beneath that point.

robertsonja is busy making a snafu to catch egosan if the matrix doesn't hold?
Heh, heh, heh.

 Page 6 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 114
There are 114 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints