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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 3 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 64
Author
Miguel75 & PhillipIvan go gardening Lord Gumtree
One Day Hero
26/02/2014
12:28:59 AM
So you were twiddling your thumbs for half an hour at the top of each pitch while the poor second jugged and cleaned carrying a pack.........and you had a haul line hanging there? That wasn't very well thought out, was it? :)

I'm assuming that you guys aren't trying to set any records, just attempting to get the route done in a day? Do you reckon the time spent on hauling a daypack (maybe 45mins for the whole route), is any more than will be wasted by carrying the thing while jugging?

Pat
26/02/2014
2:11:06 PM
Well - I can cramp up with the best of them, so if you're interested in a belay slave. I would consider teaming up for a single day push.

phillipivan
26/02/2014
2:51:40 PM
Pat, but you've always hung shit on my attempts to sandbag other people into doing northwall-in-a-day? But when I sandbag myself....

phillipivan
26/02/2014
3:02:37 PM
ODH, well sorta. But a few points.

1) I kinda tried to do what I did with Huwj on OziD; where we did short fix and jug with small pack. Mikey didn't short fix, but says he will next time; I believe him.

2) I did the overwhelming majority of the jugging last week (3 pitches of 4), with the pack, had no issues, and easily got up the pitches in under 30m without gassing myself.

You are correct, speed records are not really on the radar. I like trying to do this stuff in a day because I like big days out. This current fascination of mine; is just one way of trying to achieve that without local access to bigger mountains.

Pat
26/02/2014
4:52:41 PM
C'mon Phil, I'm trying to be part of the solution not part of the problem . . .

Macciza
26/02/2014
5:45:57 PM
Phil
Don't forget about our winter plans . . .
The days are shorter so more gets packed in on big days . .

And there is always the 'Nose on the North Wall' to plan as well....
Hopefully I can get down before winter too, maybe April sometime ....

phillipivan
26/02/2014
7:02:44 PM
I haven't forgotten, Macca, just waiting for the days to shorten and the weather to turn foul. And appologies work commitments will keep me away from your dog face gathering in a week or two.

Pat, for sure come and join us or me on a route some time.

One other perk of trying to do these routes in a day, even if you fail, is you don't need to wait for a long weekend or holidays.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
26/02/2014
8:59:24 PM
On 26/02/2014 phillipivan wrote:
>I haven't forgotten, Macca, just waiting for the days to shorten and the
>weather to turn foul. And appologies work commitments will keep me away
>from your dog face gathering in a week or two.

When was that announced? I thought there was something happening at Dogface at about this coming weekend (which is a clash of dates for me), but not a fortnight later?
>
>Pat, for sure come and join us or me on a route some time.
>
If you want a slower journey, hopefully I could be available some time too Pat.
~> Then again, how much suffering are you up for?
Heh, heh, heh.

>One other perk of trying to do these routes in a day, even if you fail,
>is you don't need to wait for a long weekend or holidays.

Nah, ... just an understanding partner* instead...

(* More than one meaning there, so take it however it fits!).

phillipivan
26/02/2014
11:18:46 PM
On 26/02/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 26/02/2014 phillipivan wrote:
>>I haven't forgotten, Macca, just waiting for the days to shorten and
>the
>>weather to turn foul. And appologies work commitments will keep me away
>>from your dog face gathering in a week or two.
>
>When was that announced? I thought there was something happening at Dogface
>at about this coming weekend (which is a clash of dates for me), but not
>a fortnight later?

Nah, I just remembered wrong. Doesn't change anything for me, Im working saturdays for a while.
One Day Hero
27/02/2014
5:09:12 PM
On 26/02/2014 phillipivan wrote:
>You are correct, speed records are not really on the radar. I like trying
>to do this stuff in a day because I like big days out.

Yep, big days out are rad. It's worth remembering that once any member of the team pops/goes lactic/starts cramping, your speed will drop to a crawl. You can always make up time on the last couple of pitches if you get there with energy to spare.

Miguel75
27/02/2014
6:28:12 PM
On 27/02/2014 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 26/02/2014 phillipivan wrote:
>>You are correct, speed records are not really on the radar. I like trying
>>to do this stuff in a day because I like big days out.
>
>Yep, big days out are rad. It's worth remembering that once any member
>of the team pops/goes lactic/starts cramping, your speed will drop to a
>crawl. You can always make up time on the last couple of pitches if you
>get there with energy to spare.

One of my biggest learnings is to pace myself and use the Fifi more to save my arms. It'll also help if I don't drop my Fifi on the walk in. With my new found confidence jugging I guess the proof will be in the pudding when we get on the wall next.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
28/02/2014
11:27:01 AM
Idra~>M9 wrote;
>Daisys...
re PI post of;
>>I would only consider this viable for 'easy aid' (what ever that means).
>>I may experiment with the idea, but not to save weight, but to cut down
>>on tangles and bulk around your tie-ins. Any thing where you have reasonable
>>cause to believe gear may pop under you probably warrants them. I don't
>>generally find this to be the case with the gear on OziD. I also expect
>>it would make busting the odd free climbing move or two a bit easier.
>>A lost Ett would slow you down more than any time you may hope to save.
>>In reality what I may experiment with, is a single daisy that gets used
>>on an as needs be basis.
>
>I see some merit in a single daisy on easy aid (agree with 'whatever that
>means'!), but going back to your earlier point of cutting down tangles;
>I find daisies great for that! Simply drop the tangled ett and let the
>daisy unwind the tangle!

PI replied;
>I do that often.
>One specific thing I can recall that prompted the idea, was free climbing from above a rivet, or trying to, where it was awkward to move off it and then reach back and unclip it. If there wasn't a dasiy on it, it would have been less awkward.

That would be called anticipation, yes?
;-)

Awkwardness is often simply a part of aiding. Just another thing to put up with/overcome...
I know a party that accidentally left an ett clipped to a large cam on the mantle-move just below Big Grassy, due the leader freeing the move, having the difficulty you alude to, and the second not cleaning the ett in the dark because the rope wasn't clipped to it and thus he missed it...
~> It was more awkward for them to retrieve the ett and cam later!

I am curious about your use of fifi now...
If you propose not using daisies on 'easy' aid, do you still intend to use a fifi?
brendan
28/02/2014
11:40:28 AM
Here's an interesting article from Chris Mac, he mentions the no daisy chain approach as well as a few other tips

http://www.supertopo.com/a/10-Tips-To-Make-Big-Wall-Climbing-More-Fun/a12275n.html

IdratherbeclimbingM9
28/02/2014
12:09:31 PM
On 28/02/2014 brendan wrote:
>Here's an interesting article from Chris Mac, he mentions the no daisy
>chain approach as well as a few other tips
>
>http://www.supertopo.com/a/10-Tips-To-Make-Big-Wall-Climbing-More-Fun/a12275n.html

I just checked out that link, and the others from it once there.
Although he makes some good points, and I find it interesting to see what others prefer / have evolved too, I still come away with the feeling that it reads a bit like an advertisement for sponsored gear?
brendan
28/02/2014
12:32:31 PM
I'm not sure about the no daisy thing, I had a fall on ozzy last winter while trying to go fast and blew a cam placement. I'm pretty sure I would have lost the etrier if I hadn't been attached to it. That would have sucked as we only had one pair of Yates ladders for the leader and a second lightweight set for the second to jumar with.

phillipivan
28/02/2014
1:18:12 PM
On 28/02/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>I am curious about your use of fifi now...
>If you propose not using daisies on 'easy' aid, do you still intend to
>use a fifi?

Yes. I use them all the time, it's just rare that I fifi into the daisy. More than nine tenths of the time, I fifi into the biner that my Ett hangs on. Most of the rest of the time I fifi directly into the the gear that biner is clipped to (thumb loop of a cam, wire loop of nut, etc). Probably not great for the gear, but gets you 5cm higher.

PhillipIvan.
bones
28/02/2014
2:29:17 PM
On 28/02/2014 phillipivan wrote:
>on. Most of the rest of the time I fifi directly into the the gear that
>biner is clipped to (thumb loop of a cam, wire loop of nut, etc). Probably
>not great for the gear, but gets you 5cm higher.

I managed to snap the wire loop of an otherwise solid-looking RP, and suspect that it was the fifi hooked directly that caused it
One Day Hero
28/02/2014
2:51:35 PM
On 28/02/2014 phillipivan wrote:
>More than nine tenths of the time, I fifi into the biner that my Ett hangs
>on.

Why no topstepping?

phillipivan
28/02/2014
3:38:14 PM
If I'm top stepping I go to the same point but with a draw.

How much I top step varies on how steep it is. If it's even slightly slabby, it's very easy to do so every move.

On a trade route like OziD I find the placements are so obvious and well defined that I can often more expeditiously and efficient place something for the 3rd step; rather than top step and struggling to reach the next straight forward placement. Considering the ease with which that route eats up cam hooks and microcams; I suspect I would be slower and more tired top stepping every move, something to practise, but it seems consistent with what I have seen others - better than I - do.
I also have the advantage of being near on Egosan tall.


ClusterFck
26/04/2014
2:47:30 PM
On 21/02/2014 phillipivan wrote:
>
>The blue totem cam is the best. Why don't I have it in triplicate?

Agreed, this thing rocks !!!! We have one and we're thinking on buying a full rack of it ! First time I've heard of them was with this vid:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-TeTejh1ebs


Awesome TR by the way.

 Page 3 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 64
There are 64 messages in this topic.

 

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