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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 2 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 63
Author
TR: Cosmic County and Narrowneck

rodw
14/06/2013
6:00:27 PM
On 14/06/2013 dalai wrote:
>Just when I think you can't be any more obnoxious ODH, you prove me wrong
>time and again...

Don't worry ....apparently hes nice in person so all good apparently????
technogeekery
14/06/2013
8:21:46 PM
Just switch to ignore, you'll never have to be irritated again.

And I don't buy this "he's a nice guy in person" thing. I think his real personality is on display here, and he does a convincing act of being a nice person in reality, to avoid the inevitable consequences of showing his true self in person. Many sociopaths do that.
dalai
14/06/2013
9:24:30 PM
Unfortunately as a moderator, I don't have the luxury of ignoring anyone's posts...

salty crag
15/06/2013
9:31:14 AM
On 14/06/2013 dalai wrote:
>Unfortunately as a moderator, I don't have the luxury of ignoring anyone's
>posts...
Thats why you get paid the big bucks!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
15/06/2013
9:45:57 AM
On 15/06/2013 salty crag wrote:
>On 14/06/2013 dalai wrote:
>>Unfortunately as a moderator, I don't have the luxury of ignoring anyone's
>>posts...
>Thats why you get paid the big bucks!
>
... or get sandbagged, by having to read the rubbish (like this post) that M9 keeps setting you up with to read on a regular basis!
Heh, heh, heh.
;-)
One Day Hero
15/06/2013
6:31:16 PM
On 14/06/2013 technogeekery wrote:

>And I don't buy this "he's a nice guy in person" thing. I think his real
>personality is on display here, and he does a convincing act of being a
>nice person in reality, to avoid the inevitable consequences of showing
>his true self in person. Many sociopaths do that.

I think there's a difference between being a sociopath and having a low tolerance for fuching retards!
Dr Nick
15/06/2013
7:34:37 PM
So those of whinging about you aren't sociopaths?
One Day Hero
17/06/2013
10:59:29 AM
Ah, the old "I know you are, but what am I?".............haven't heard that one since about fourth grade
Dr Nick
17/06/2013
7:38:21 PM
Yeah, alright, it was petty. I still think you're carrying on a bit, but life's too short to argue on the Internet. Go climb a rock or something.

wallwombat
17/06/2013
8:54:34 PM
On 14/06/2013 rodw wrote:

>Don't worry ....apparently he's nice in person so all good apparently????

That's only because in real life he can cop a punch in the head.
One Day Hero
17/06/2013
9:37:42 PM
On 17/06/2013 Dr Nick wrote:
>I still think you're carrying on a bit

Well yes, I probably am. However, I think there's a vast difference between what qualifies as runout when you're at your limit, and what's runout 5 grades below your limit. My initial suggestion was that beginner crack climbers like the guys who wrote the trip report (no offence intended, we were all beginners sketching around on gr18's at some stage), can definitely approach Interstate 31 safely......but not with a single rack of nuts and cams. With that rack, I reckon you'd get 5 runners in the whole route (essentially one piece between the climber and the deck the whole way up). Pretty bloody bad advice for leaders who are likely to fall and unlikely to be adept at placing gear. In fact Dr. Nick's advice, if followed by novice crack climbers, is close to inciting people to have an accident..................yet I'm the one accused of being the sociopath?!?
Dr Nick
17/06/2013
10:12:23 PM
I'll have to go back and do it again (First World Problems!). I remember getting a lot more gear than that in, and feeling fairly pumped and frazzled at the top because I'm crap at cracks. In fact, that was one reason I did the climb, to try to improve my jamming.

The only other gear I could have placed is a couple of hexes, and I don't recall using those. If it's only 5 pieces and my memory's going, then I agree that it'd be a dodgy lead at the limit.



Snacks
18/06/2013
9:00:01 AM
Besides, sociopathic behaviors are as evolutionary beneficial today as they ever have been in history. Being able to make the tough decisions that ensures their progress/survival. Maybe a few sociopathic bolt removers is what the trad climbing community needs? Ha ha

sbm
18/06/2013
10:36:50 AM
> beginner crack climbers like the guys who wrote the trip report

None taken. It's definitely been a year working on cracks n trad, my goal was to flash all the 3 star 18s at Piddington. So far I've flashed the Eternity, Psychopath, Interstate, and some easier stuff onsight at Mt York. Looking to work up to stuff like the Phoenix, Solomon, Clockwork Orange, and Catch the Wind.

Also, note I did say 'seemed' in the original post...I don't know Damo, I'm just always interested at how people come across differently in person vs online or over the phone.
PThomson
18/06/2013
12:12:54 PM
Heya Sam,

Here's my suggested crack tick list for you, based on your objectives and what you've already ticked:

Piddo:

The Cartheginian (16 - If you haven't already)
The Spartan (16 - Mind blowing)
Ballrace (17 - Haha)
Amen Corner (18)
Flake Crack (17/18 - Do it as 1 pitch to the end of the crack)
Judas - via Messiah's Exit (19)
Gemini (19)
Solomon (20) - I haven't done this one yet.
The Janicepts (21 - Tough)

Mt York:

First Year Uni (19)
The H'owl (19)

Mt Boyce:

Firebug (17)
Goldstar (19ish)
Gates of Janus (16 - Haha)

Other:

The Phoenix (20) - Medlow Bath/Megalong Valley
Clockwork Orange (20) - Shipley Lower
Catch the Wind (21) - Engineer's Cascade
FIFO Hooker (19) - The Colliery
Gina Climbhard (18/19) - the Colliery
Baird's Effort (19) - Cosmic County
Kaladan (20) - Ikara

There's a mountain of other great crack climbs out there (I haven't even touched on The Wolgan), not to mention great TRAD climbs (that aren't necessarily cracks), or those that are harder than the 21ish limit I've imposed, but those were the ones that sprang to mind in the 5min it took to write this message.

If you ever want to hit up some trad, I'm out climbing every weekend, mate.

Regards,

-Paul
Bultitude
18/06/2013
2:51:20 PM
As the aforementioned leader can I say I had bout 12 pieces below me when I fell, I took 4 number twos, 4 threes and a bunch of ones. I found the threes actually fit very well in a number of places, without being so over-cammed as to be stuck. That said a single rack, probably not enough pieces.

I'm definitely a lot better at placing gear than I am at jamming. Guess that's what happens when you learn on Sydney trad. Fall was safe if maybe a little long. I had decided there was no way I could deck and that my gear was good and was attempting to blast to the top!

Great list Paul, I've been making an excel spreadsheet by size, grade location and rock type of stuff nearish Sydney I'll add what i haven't got from there and post it up soon. Keen to get out on some more cracks and get this jamming down.
One Day Hero
18/06/2013
3:36:50 PM
On 18/06/2013 Bultitude wrote:
>Keen to get out on some more cracks
>and get this jamming down.

Sweet! It takes a little while, be patient. I have a few "how to learn to jam in N.S.W." tips, if you're interested.

Big G
18/06/2013
4:21:47 PM
Now this is not meant to steal the thread but should the word be "jam" or "jamb"?
Bultitude
18/06/2013
4:45:57 PM
ODH I'd love to hear them.

Also, does anyone know of any Sydney crack boulder to practice on? particularly off widths?

deadbudgy
18/06/2013
4:59:11 PM
I reckon the Cathedral has some pretty good cracks and it is just down in Sutherland Shire. I'm able to practice my jam(b)ing down there a bit.
As for crack boulders? Lindfield maybe? Dunno

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There are 63 messages in this topic.

 

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