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ajfclark

6-Sep-2013
8:43:29 PM

WTF is sport aid dogging?


Big G

6-Sep-2013
9:04:56 PM

On 6/09/2013 ajfclark wrote:
>WTF is sport aid dogging?

The gibbering of a desperate man it would seem!


Macciza

6-Sep-2013
9:15:00 PM

'Sport aid dogging' is where you pull on the draws, usually at the crux where there are extra convenience dogging bolts are, so you can claim a 'Dogged' ascent without actually climbing any of the hard parts of the climb. Useful for adding a couple of extra grades to your online logbook . . .

'Mid route pinkpointing' is where you pull through (usually by sport aid dogging on a convenience dogging bolt) so you can clip a higher draw to work out the moves at the crux without risking a fall at any point until you have the sequence totally worked out and all your tick marks in place so you can finally 'go for the send' safe in the knowledge that you probably won't fall or fail . . .

'French-free' is where you pull on a draw, or hang onto one you just clipped, whilst actually 'climbing' continually (ie not resting) as opposed to 'sport aiding' bolt to bolt . . .

Alternatively you could try actually 'climbing' the route, crux and falls included, (maybe take a rest), but basically progress up the cliff under your own steam without cheating (see above) . . .
Though apparently all these things are considered basically the same by spurt climbers and just called 'dogging' - personally I think they are vastly different . . .


Macciza

6-Sep-2013
9:29:44 PM

No, the 'gibbering of desperate men' is usually what happens when you put a gr 28 spurt-aider on a slight runout gr 23 trad climb . . . .


ajfclark

6-Sep-2013
9:57:12 PM

I'd call all of those working the route Macciza. I'd be ok with people pulling on stuff to get back to their high point after falling off and calling it dogged, but if you're yarding on stuff to get up the route it doesn't count in my book and it's not really worth differentiating between the techniques. Once you've fallen off it's kind of all moot anyway as it's not a clean lead.

Re mid route pink pointing, I think you mean mid route top roping. Isn't pink pointing when you lead a route with the gear already in place? I'm not sure how you'd start doing that mid route...

plugngo

7-Sep-2013
12:22:17 AM

I think it's called a green-point.


ajfclark

7-Sep-2013
7:58:33 AM

Isn't green point is leading a sport route on gear?

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