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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
1st time in the Grampians
Bletsas
11/03/2013
9:49:07 PM
Hey all,

I just got back from spending the last four days in the Grampians on a bouldering trip. I wanted to find out peoples opinions on the lower grade problems. I was a little bit confused when I tried to pull up on some of the problems that were rated V1/V2 and hardly managed to move my arse off the ground while some other V2 problems and even a couple of V3 problems I could complete quite easily. Obviously the problems aren't established by the one person so an amount of variance in grades is to be expected but I was still baffled at times.

I just want to find out what other people have thought after a day out in the andersens and other areas around mt.stapylton, hollow mountain, mt.zero etc...

Thanks for an feedback!

Nick.

BoulderBaby
11/03/2013
11:07:11 PM
Yeah, there are some inconsistencies but a lot of the time it does have to do with your climbing style/strengths. Sydney high rise is the easiest V3 , where as golden arete is nails for a V0.

ajfclark
Online Now
12/03/2013
7:29:31 AM
There's a sneaky way to do the sit start of Golden ArÍte that makes it v0. Sydney Highrise used to be graded v1; there's a few places where high problems had their grades upped.
Bletsas
12/03/2013
9:54:19 AM
Yeah, these are two problems I worked on which I thought the grades were a bit off. I completed both on my first attempt so I guess like BoulderBaby said, they were problems that suited my strengths.
Bletsas
12/03/2013
11:27:38 AM
And sounds like I need to train on crimpy finger rails to complete some of the other problems!

shortman
Online Now
12/03/2013
11:37:56 AM
Crimp strength just comes with time Nick. Ligaments and tendons take ages to catch up with muscles. Hard to train before you have been climbing for a while.

The good Dr
12/03/2013
11:53:59 AM
So here is a guy who can flash a f8b+ but struggles to get off the ground on a 5 and stuffs up the first moves on a 6a. So dont worry about the vagueries of grading and any imcompetence too much.

http://vimeo.com/35171521

I also remember watching some guys at Font who were crushing 7s that could not climb one of the easy 5s because it was a hand crack. They couldn't believe how impossible it was!?!
Bletsas
12/03/2013
12:37:00 PM
On 12/03/2013 shortman wrote:
>Crimp strength just comes with time Nick. Ligaments and tendons take ages
>to catch up with muscles. Hard to train before you have been climbing for
>a while.

I do remember you said that there would be some problems I wouldn't be able to pull up on!
Bletsas
12/03/2013
12:38:18 PM
On 12/03/2013 The good Dr wrote:
>So here is a guy who can flash a f8b+ but struggles to get off the ground
>on a 5 and stuffs up the first moves on a 6a. So dont worry about the vagueries
>of grading and any imcompetence too much.
>
>http://vimeo.com/35171521
>
>I also remember watching some guys at Font who were crushing 7s that could
>not climb one of the easy 5s because it was a hand crack. They couldn't
>believe how impossible it was!?!

Thanks for the advice/link Doc!

There are 9 messages in this topic.

 

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