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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 29
Author
TR Big Bird, The Gib, Mittagong

Snacks
23/07/2013
5:23:27 PM
That was a fun lead!

Will have to knock over those projects soon Mikl! Sunday?
mikllaw
23/07/2013
7:01:50 PM
Thanks for the grade update, I don't have a clue, especially on slabs. I thought Comyns was easier but more sustained than Big Bird. Slow twitch was epic when it only had 2 bolts though...

On 23/07/2013 PThomson wrote:
>I found the Anty Climb (21) and Slow Twitch (21) really good, but the
>Italian Route (20) is on really bad rock, and keeps getting harder with
>every repeat ascent.
>
>Comyns (20) 2nd pitch is harder than the Big Bird second Pitch at the
>same grade, even for a friction slab.
>
>Sluj Gulpa (22, 22, 23) is a must-do Superclassic! I've taken some monster
>falls off that last pitch!
>
>-Paul
mikllaw
23/07/2013
7:02:35 PM
On 23/07/2013 Snacks wrote:
>Will have to knock over those projects soon Mikl! Sunday?

If only, I'm no stronger, or lighter. Maybe
PThomson
23/07/2013
8:03:07 PM
Mikl, Snacks, let's hit it up before it gets too hot again! Having climbed past your projects on that wall quite a few times now, Mikl, I have to say that they look pretty challenging!

I keep telling everyone that The Gib is one of my favourite microcrags around, cause everything there is so bloody weird! Why does no one listen to me. Spread the word, people!

Slow twitch with 2 bolts would have been terrifying. That slab section on it doesnt look that hard, but for some reason it always scares me more than the upside down fall half the length of the crag I took off the top of Sluj Gulpa on my second attempt.

-Paul
mikllaw
24/07/2013
7:16:22 AM
you're obviously climbing well (most tall climbers complain that Expectorant is undergraded and reachy, and you want to downgrade it, and you cruised Imogenation coated in dirt after record rains), do the top pitch of Slow Twitch! You might as well do the chimney project as I'm going backwards on that.
PThomson
24/07/2013
8:35:30 AM
Neil told me that the top pitch of Slow Twitch is pretty awesome, with a rather malevolent last move. Do I smell a sandbag?

I've actually toyed with the idea of trying to find other lines down at the Gib, but I haven't really seen many obvious routes left to go (other than a tricky looking blunt arete below the prow that becomes Sluj Gulpa P2, and could make a direct start to it). What do you think, Mikl, is there much still to do?

Regards,

-Paul
mikllaw
24/07/2013
5:29:47 PM
Trubl is brilliant, but needs a rebolt. There are some desperate new routes further left. Theer's an easy trad line 30m downhill from Sluj Gulpa, and another one left of {\P1 Big Bird.

Snacks
25/07/2013
11:49:33 AM
On 23/07/2013 mikllaw wrote:
>On 23/07/2013 Snacks wrote:
>>Will have to knock over those projects soon Mikl! Sunday?
>
>If only, I'm no stronger, or lighter. Maybe

Taller even?

Could rig up one of these on the day:


http://en.irangreenvoice.com/article/2010/dec/23/2589
PThomson
12/08/2013
10:54:56 AM
The Gib was alive and rocking yesterday, with a range of climbers of all skillsets heading out there to investigate the Trachyte.

Mikl's Face Project (Closed Project - 24/25?) - Saw Mike working the tough crux sequences, and with myself, John, Snacks and Marek having a "bit of a play" on it. It's very un-Gib-like, and quite tricky (strenuous and a touch powerful) and will be great when Sent. At present we're devising a plan to chain Mike to this climb until he sends it, so we can all start working it outselves. =)

Big Bird (17, 20, 18) - Saw a repeat by the two Kiwi climbers, Dasha and John.

The Italian Route (20) - Saw repeats by everyone, and I can verify that Snacks cleaning efforts (with a Hammer) has turned a route I had previously called chossy horribleness into a rather classy friction slab.

The Anty Climb (20 - officially 22) - Saw repeats by Dana and Marek.

Sluj Gulpa (21, 22, 23) - Saw repeats by Dasha and John, and I did a quick rap in climb out lap of the last pitch to (finally) get the tick on this masterpiece.

Slow Twitch (20, 24/25) - Saw repeats of the first pitch by Marek, Snacks and myself. I also had 2 shots at the absolutely stellar (and possibly quite evil) second pitch, with all the sequences sorted but unable to put the link together. Snacks seconded me on it with intriguingly opposite techniques to my own.

I have unfinished business with Slow Twitch P2, so I'll be back there in the near future (before it gets too hot) for the Send. If anyone else is keen to join the posse and experience the aesthetic awesomeness that is the Gib, let me know.

Regards,

-Paul

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 29
There are 29 messages in this topic.

 

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