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Sublime Climbs - A Guide to the best rock climbing venues in Victoria, Australia.By Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding & Jarrod Hodgson. Over 700 climbs, 158 phototopos, 36 maps, and 380 pages covering the best of Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo and the Grampians $45.00
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|TR - Hillwood & Cataract Gorge, and more shoes...
This past weekend I had the chance to pop down to Tassie for a family function and decided it might be good to get a bit of climbing in with my brother. He's new to climbing, but keen as mustard to learn any and everything.... Anyway the plan was to fly in Friday, spend time with the family and then climb Saturday. Luckily for us my (our) Mum rocks and she set in motion a plan that allowed us to get out climbing Friday and Saturday; thanks Mum.
We had thought about climbing at Ben Lomond but in the interest of time, and to familiarise my brother with his locals, we settled on Hillwood and Cataract Gorge. I purchased the 'Climb Tasmania, Selected best guide' for my brother and while it's a good guide, quite helpful for Hillwood especially the Chessboard (?), unfortunately there aren't too many easy climbs (>16) documented therein. All in all a nice guide though..
On Friday arvo we headed out to Hillwood for a look around and climbed on the Chessboard as there are a number of easy sport climbs from 14-18. My brother was keen to use his new gear so I sandbagged him into leading a pretty cool, pretty easy gr 14 route. He loved it and we then worked our way down the crag from R-L. It's a pretty cool looking wall with really awesome rock that felt very nice... It was also really fun playing around on bolts.
Here's a pic of the RHS of the Chessboard, showing most of the easier climbs
After a while we were both pretty tired but on the way out I saw a line up the middle of Golgotha which looked rad and I thought I'd give it a crack. It was a really fun looking slabby climb (Ghost Rider?) and was great climbing, until I got lost about 1/3 the way up. I couldn't make it through this one section and while it was fun throwing myself at the moves I couldn't figure them out and flamed out. We then called it a night and walked out very happy and ready for a nap.
Golgotha in all its glory... Ghost Rider (?) is the second bolted line from the left...
After a very long night replete with a crying baby, we woke up at the crack of 11am and set off to explore Cataract Gorge. We went for a bit of an wander along both sides of the gorge before settling on Feltham Buttress for a spot of play. On the walk in, lo and behold, I found more shoes....
Not sure why I always end up finding shoes while out exploring but it seems to be my cross to bare! There's a great little crack, ~14, that goes up the middle of the buttress and was a great old time. There was a fun 19 to the left and also an amazing looking hand crack just around the corner to the right which I'll have to save for next time.
Not one but two shoes... Lucky me!
All in all it was a great trip, sharing the brotherhood of the rope with my brother and sampling a small, itty bitty tini tiny bit of what is on offer in Tassie. We had such a fun time we're already plotting our next sojourn... 'til then, have fun and climb safe.
EDIT: Apoolgies, my linking is pretty crap and doesn't take you to the post about the two previous times I've found non climbing shoes at a crag...
Thanks for the TR - always interesting to hear about new (to me) crags. Tassie sounds like it has some great climbing.
Nice one, Miguel. Ghost Rider is a fantastic route so you should get back on it. You probably 'got lost' where you needed to move right. The climb that starts in the same place but goes up left isn't in the guide but is a real beauty too. It's called Religious Rubbish and a little harder than GR - probably 20.
Good choice in The Gorge; Feltham is a great buttress. The crack on the arete you liked the look of is Lingham (18) and a classic at the grade.
Give yourself enough time to visit Mt Wellington the next time you're in Tassie. A great mixture of routes and we'll soon have a great new, signposted tracknetwork so you'll even be able to find your way around. And the guidebook is available free online!
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