Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop

Scarpa: Scarpa "Mystic GTX" Approach Shoe. Premium model. Gortex lined. Vibram Sole. Climbing toe... Size 43 Eur. (10 USm)  $149.00
50% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
Jamming class at Mt Piddington
technogeekery
11/10/2012
11:50:37 AM
I got up to Piddo on Saturday with a couple of mates, and again on Wednesday with a new friend I met on Chocky. Its been a while since I did much trad leading, so we chose Piddo to get on some easy trad classics, in particular crack. We had a ball on Sat, leading lots of easy climbs. Then on Weds I climbed with Jonas, who is a considerably stronger climber, so I was able to follow some amazing routes that he led, as well as doing some slightly harder leads myself.

View from Horne Point

The view from the Horne Point lookout on the walk in - lovely position.

Chicken Hearted

Quentin kicks off on Chicken Hearted - we found it quite stout for the grade, but it protects well.

The Eternity 19

Jonas led me up The Eternity (18) - what an awesome route. I made it clean on second, would have found it pretty scary to lead. Maybe after a few more laps and more jamming practise.

Jonas on SSCC3

I had a crack at SSCC3 (22) but didn't have a clue - here Jonas faces the crux (one slip, but he made it).

Jonas on Judas 19

Judas (19) is another awesome climb. Jonas has done the scary arete start before, so we skipped it this time and came in from the right. Here he has downclimbed and is resting before kicking off on the crux finger crack above him. We moved right at the top and through the Messiah roof - a great combination. I fell off the crux a couple of times but eventually worked it out - I need more crack practice!

Judas now has a DRBB at the top (thanks to whoever put this up) so Jonas could lower off and bottom belay me.

SSCC1

Me on SSCC1 - lovely arete, feels quite airy for the height.

Crack pitch of Flake Crack

Jonas combined Hope (15 - fingerlock problem) with the crack pitch of Flake Crack. I followed - I'd done Hope before, but the top was awesome, and within my ability - next time I'll try to lead Flake Crack, what an amazing line.

View from Flake Crack

Great views from the top of Flake Crack.

Sincerity 13

I had a ball on Sincerity (13). First bolt is worryingly high, but the climbing positive. I tried the direct finish (goes straight up from where I am) but fell off a couple of times, and took the original escape route off right. I also led Charity (13), the wide corner crack to the left - nice climbing, but would be better with lower-offs.

The Carthaginian (15)

I led The Carthaginian (15) which goes up the corner in the pic above - great route, varied and interesting with good pro.

Joseph (14)

Joseph (14) is another good climb, going up the obvious crack and the corner above to a ledge by the trees (DRBB). I only led P1, as Jonas didn't feel P2 worthwhile - I might do it later with other partners.

Over the two days, I also did a few others where I have no photos. Chimney and Wall (8) was our first route here - it was fun, and a good warm up, but hardly worth the 4 stars given in the guide. I ran the two pitches together which was a mistake, the rope drag almost killed me. Bonatti Crack (10) is tiny but a lovely little route, and good practise for jamming.

All up, I got up 12 or 13 routes over two days, mostly crack climbs or at least partly crack, and nearly all trad. My hands are trashed (must learn to tape), my body is sore, and my heart is happy.

Looking out towards Zig Zag

Plenty more out there to explore...




shortman
11/10/2012
11:59:00 AM
Thanks for that. Great pics of the lines you're talking about. Looks like a good place to visit for a few days.

Miguel75
11/10/2012
12:18:07 PM
Thanks for sharing an enjoyable, pic laden TR. Looks like a great few days and rad location...


Zarb
11/10/2012
2:41:35 PM
Ah Joseph... that was my first ever trad lead. Looks like you had fun.

Mike Bee
11/10/2012
4:02:06 PM
I love Piddo. I've had a couple of days of great climbing there.

benjenga
11/10/2012
4:44:48 PM
So many classic routes at piddo, the best trad crag in the mountains in my opinion. Thanx for your TR, it was a good read. Good to see Jonas is out and about...

spiinal
11/10/2012
7:26:05 PM
Awesome! Thanks for sharing that.

Muki
11/10/2012
9:04:20 PM
Sounds like you had an awesome time, Mt. Piddington is one of the only crags I visited in the glues
I loved Eternity.
mikllaw
11/10/2012
9:45:10 PM
4 stars at grade 8 = -2 stars at gare 15, in the Blueys, sad to say/
HocusPocus is good, so are :-
Tombstone wall (15), Phantom (14!), Gemini (16) followed by Cardiac arete (17), Curtain Call (scary 17), Amen Corner (18), Ballrace (16),
PThomson
11/10/2012
10:44:25 PM
Mikl, are you trying to start something, calling Ballrace a 16??? I think that the 6m opening section of that is about as intense as 28 metres of Janicepts =P

Been on Ballrace 3 laps now, and it just doesn't get any easier. But what an awesome little battle it is. Get on it!!!
technogeekery
12/10/2012
8:54:45 AM
Thanks all - wasn't sure there would be any interest in a TR about bumbly-grade climbing, happy to see otherwise.

Thanks for the recommendations Mikl - taken with a pinch of salt as always :-) My hitlist for next time is

Prologue 11 ****
The Great Unwashed RHV (14 ***)
The Spartan (16 ***** when my new big gear arrives...)
Joseph 14 **** (didn't do top pitch this time)
The Phantom 13 ***** (a sandbag at 13?)
Tombstone Wall 15 *****
Flake Crack 17 ***** (didn't do the flake pitch & really want to - this is probably as hard as I'm prepared to try on trad lead at the moment)
Genesis / Cardiac Arete 16/17 ****

Ballrace is apparently good, but given a 17 in Carter's guide, and with the description "Hellish start and fist crack" I might want to be a bit stronger on crack first. Curtain Call is given an 18 and "delicate climbing, a bit light on gear" - sounds like I should again be pretty solid at the grade first. I like corner climbs (the trad dad in me) so might add Amen Corner to the list. Cheers for the recommendations.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
12/10/2012
9:13:39 AM
On 12/10/2012 technogeekery wrote:
>Thanks all - wasn't sure there would be any interest in a TR about bumbly-grade
>climbing, happy to see otherwise.

It is great to see your Trip Report on Chockstone and the many photos included make it even more appealing.
For what it is worth, I reckon the majority of climbers if not soley contained with those grades, enjoy them anyway(!), ... particularly at Mt Piddington which is iconic for many of those grade climbs.
PThomson
12/10/2012
11:22:34 AM
Trad isn't about the epic grades, trad is about the experience. You've put together a good list of Classic ticks at Piddo so far, and your list of "ticks to do" is full of greats!

The Spartan is brilliant. To be safe you need a #5 cam for the start of the second pitch, but you can get by without it. Bring a normal rack other than that (it loves hexes!).

The bottom flake on flake crack isn't as awesome as you might expect (and you definately don't want to fall on it), but as a long single pitch climb, Flake Crack is way better than the sum of its parts. Bring some big gear for the initial flake, and same something big for pulling the top rooflet.

I found Amen Corner quite hard when I first got on it. It really is only 18, but it doesn't give it up easily. Just be prepared for the run-out squeeze-chimney in the middle, only Big Bros can protect it.

I'd also suggest Gemini (19), especially if you have reasonably big hands to make the crux fist-crack section easy. Completely safe climbing, and quite exciting.

Jonas sandbagged be onto Ballrace after we'd both just been up The Kraken (22). "It's only a 17..." he said. I fell off on my onsite at the start, and on my red-point attempt when I found out the hard way that my fist isn't big enough to fist-jam the crack. I've ticked it twice since then (and I love sandbagging people on it every time I go out to Piddo, now), with the trick -for me- being to approach the fist-crack section as straight up off-width, and embracing it as such. You'll love it.

bw
12/10/2012
12:01:38 PM
yep, deffo get on the spartan & phantom - stonking classics.
technogeekery
12/10/2012
1:05:37 PM
On 12/10/2012 PThomson wrote:
>Trad isn't about the epic grades, trad is about the experience. You've
>put together a good list of Classic ticks at Piddo so far, and your list
>of "ticks to do" is full of greats!

cheers

>The Spartan is brilliant. To be safe you need a #5 cam for the start of
>the second pitch, but you can get by without it. Bring a normal rack other
>than that (it loves hexes!).

I'm old enough that I love hexes too :-)

>The bottom flake on flake crack isn't as awesome as you might expect (and
>you definately don't want to fall on it), but as a long single pitch climb,
>Flake Crack is way better than the sum of its parts. Bring some big gear
>for the initial flake, and same something big for pulling the top rooflet.
>
>I found Amen Corner quite hard when I first got on it. It really is only
>18, but it doesn't give it up easily. Just be prepared for the run-out
>squeeze-chimney in the middle, only Big Bros can protect it.
>
>I'd also suggest Gemini (19), especially if you have reasonably big hands
>to make the crux fist-crack section easy. Completely safe climbing, and
>quite exciting.

good tips, thanks

>Jonas sandbagged be onto Ballrace ...You'll love it.

He tried to do it to me too :-) But its on my list, just need to toughen up a little.

E. Wells
12/10/2012
4:22:28 PM
I have done a few climbs at Piddo, and enjoyed them all except trying to solo curtain call, but the one that I remeber really liking was 'zany'.

southcol
12/10/2012
9:11:46 PM
psychopath. jam classic.
NinaCh
24/10/2012
8:14:20 AM
ahhh Piddo! Good one, seems you got many of the classics in and great to see Jonas on his favourite playground ;) Tell him to take you up Clockwork Orange, an absolute classic!

There are 18 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints