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TR;- boars head abseil route

cjradloff76

10-Mar-2012
12:01:23 AM

http://cjradloff762.webs.com/boarsheadabseilroute.htm

click the above link to go to my website

we abseiled over the boars head and went around till we came to a crack,

if you see a crack in the mountain. we abseiled down inside that crack. crazy stuff

and we abseiled down to a ledge that only two people could fit on.

WOW stuff.

extreme sports at its finest

cheers

Clinton and "wollemi"


IdratherbeclimbingM9

10-Mar-2012
9:53:03 AM

On 10/03/2012 cjradloff76 wrote:
>http://cjradloff762.webs.com/boarsheadabseilroute.htm
>
>click the above link to go to my website
>
>we abseiled over the boars head and went around till we came to a crack,
>
>if you see a crack in the mountain. we abseiled down inside that crack.
>crazy stuff
>
>and we abseiled down to a ledge that only two people could fit on.
>
>WOW stuff.
>
>extreme sports at its finest
>
>cheers
>
>Clinton and "wollemi"
>

Good one cicada and Wollemi!
I am pleased to see that you are still stoked about it, and I also notice that you are wearing your extreme gear for the occasion!

Hey cicada, ... regarding the following picture;

Do you realise that Wollemi has taken you full circle regarding chockstone-ing(?), ... as that is exactly what you are standing on in the photo!
☺


shortman

10-Mar-2012
11:12:50 AM

Grouse Clinton, well done mate!

simey

10-Mar-2012
1:14:11 PM

Nice work Clinton. It looks like it was a great adventure.

And nice work too Wollemi.


Miguel75

10-Mar-2012
8:47:27 PM

Awesome TR Clint & Wollemi. It looks and sounds like you're living the dream...


bw

10-Mar-2012
11:37:03 PM

On 10/03/2012 shortman wrote:
>Grouse Clinton, well done mate!

nah, grose is on the other side of the plateau


vwills

12-Mar-2012
6:06:34 PM

wow, that inspired me to do dirty rotten pig today- the abseil was half the fun! I thought the second abseil was rather tight, so I'm glad you didnt get stuck in there!

patto

13-Mar-2012
5:10:11 AM

The abseil is probably as much fun as dirty rotten pigs. That climb was a 19 come 17 on average rock.

Steve Peckman

13-Mar-2012
1:15:05 PM

Great work Clint keep it up!


evanbb

14-Mar-2012
3:44:47 PM

I've done that trip, on a rainy day. It was actually excellent. Great adventure when nothing else is on.

Personal highlight was when Steve lost a sock and so made a new one out of a tea-towel and some electrical tape.


nmonteith

14-Mar-2012
10:01:08 PM

I'd actually like to take some non-climber friends on that rap route one day. I've done Dirty Rotten Pig so I know the way down - but once you are at the bottom of the rap, can you walk out some way? Just follow the ledge system out?

Wollemi

14-Mar-2012
10:27:32 PM

http://ozultimate.com/canyoning/abseiling/notes/boars_head_rock.htm

After the 2nd abseil mentioned on Tom's page, rap off to the N, and not under the slot that you previously traversed along, 20m down to a block and ledge. The ledge system off to the N is heavily bolted. I have not done Dirty Rotten Pig...

baz74

15-Mar-2012
8:13:20 AM

I have done this trip with some none climbers. Head as for the base of Dirty Rotten Pig and follow the ledge for another 100m, then scramble up a gully for about 15m to a ledge and the base of a route called Old Shandy. Old Shandy is bolted grade 11 slab easily climbed by non-climbers, one good pitch leads to an easy series of traverses all protected by glue in rings. The route out follows ledges and gullies with numerous bolted sections. After the first 2 pitches best to coil rope and leave 15m of rope (and half a dozen quickdraws) between you and your partner and simuclimb. Stay harnessed up until you are back at the car as there is some more exposed scrambling at the top.

Otherwise just keep abseiling down from the bottom of the gully before you traverse around to DRP, maybe 2 more pitches and the follow track to the walk out via Devils Hole.


cruze

15-Mar-2012
9:24:09 AM

On 14/03/2012 evanbb wrote:
>Personal highlight was when Steve lost a sock and so made a new one out
>of a tea-towel and some electrical tape.

There's a couple of items to add to the first aid kit... just in case I lose my sock ;)


evanbb

15-Mar-2012
10:20:20 AM

On 15/03/2012 baz74 wrote:
>Otherwise just keep abseiling down from the bottom of the gully before
>you traverse around to DRP, maybe 2 more pitches and the follow track to
>the walk out via Devils Hole.

The Devils Hole walk out is pretty good value. Cool bit of the mountains.


nmonteith

15-Mar-2012
10:21:46 AM

Sounds like a fun day either way. Is it likely to be a cluster fck of guided groups doing this on a normal weekend?


E. Wells

15-Mar-2012
10:59:39 AM

Not if you go early in the morning or later in the evening, Im fairly certain there can only be one trip running per day here. There are many options to avoid the commercial groups with exception of upper chimney.

baz74

15-Mar-2012
12:41:47 PM

Not much info on Old Shandy but once you find it you wont get off route to many bolts and tracks to the top from there. Getting the start is the trickiest thing DON'T start at the arete just left of Dirty Rotten Pig where there is an old carrot and then monumental choss above, instead follow the ledge past a tree with abseil tapes on it. After about 70m look for a faint track up a gully/corner behind trees - head up this to a nice ledge. Old shandy starts here up a slab past numerous hangers to a belay. From the belay you can see the route head left, then up and then left across ledges, very easy from here.

If you want to avoid the first and second pitch (the best bit) then you can abseil down the otherside of the slot after the chimney drop and that puts you at the end of the second pitch and it would be a grade 2 scramble out with ringbolts every few meters. I haven't done it this way so best to have 2x50m rope. The direct climb out via that abseil looks like a nice corner crack (goes at 14 apartently) then you chimney up the previous pitch - would be very exciting with a few guided groups coming down.

If you want to do Dirty Rotten Pig reversing the exit and doing a double rope rap from the top of the second pitch of old shandy might be the quickest way and avoid the crowds - haven't tried it myself though.


tnd

15-Mar-2012
1:09:56 PM

On 15/03/2012 Batey wrote:
>...Anyone got any ifo on "Old Shandy" can't find it on any of the online guides.

I think it's called "Shandy" not "Old Shandy". The FA was Chockstoner kuu or one of his buddies at the time back in the early 60's. Somehow I think they managed to do it without any ring bolts though.


nmonteith

15-Mar-2012
1:25:52 PM

This is all incredibly confusing. Anyone got a photo topo that shows all these ledges and raps etc? If not, I think I might just have to do it by myself in advance before taking bumblies down there.

There are 29 messages in this topic.