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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 3 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 89
Author
Gorges du Tarn, France

Eduardo Slabofvic
23/08/2011
1:47:30 PM
On 23/08/2011 Wendy wrote:
>>Have you been watching Bruno? Do you want to bring kinky sex into the
>thread now?
>
>You can have all the empty bottles you like, although I would have thought
>after all the cŰcktail therapy you were doing, you'd have a good supply.

I have all the empty gin bottles I can eat, but the champagne bottles are for my award winning home brew beer.
widewetandslippery
23/08/2011
1:49:49 PM
On 23/08/2011 chalkischeap wrote:
>I don't recall you ever making a useful comment either.....bye bye

Does that mean you've thumbs downed me? How do I check my status again? More points on the board!

Neil, that photo makes Ceuse look like Wingello.
Wendy
23/08/2011
4:13:17 PM
Only because your home brew is that good, I've just rescued 3 champagne bottles from the recycling. I might even manage to drop them off before you go. When are you off?

Eduardo Slabofvic
23/08/2011
4:43:44 PM
I'm off on most days that end in in the letter "y"; but I fly out on Thursday afternoon

trog
23/08/2011
9:09:33 PM
Hey Phil,

Someone told us a few months ago that a lot of bolts had been taken out or somehow routes closed recently after a death at Tarn, and that a lot of the climbing was out of commision until inspection/rebolting as required... did you see any sign of that?

googling throws up this... but doesn't give a recent update
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=17457.0

It didn't sound like you were affected, maybe I should put Gorges du tarn back on the itinerary for later this year...

Looks like an awesome trip.

phil_nev
23/08/2011
10:18:49 PM
On 23/08/2011 trog wrote:
>Hey Phil,
>
>Someone told us a few months ago that a lot of bolts had been taken out
>or somehow routes closed recently after a death at Tarn, and that a lot
>of the climbing was out of commision until inspection/rebolting as required...
>did you see any sign of that?
>
>googling throws up this... but doesn't give a recent update
>http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=17457.0
>
>It didn't sound like you were affected, maybe I should put Gorges du tarn
>back on the itinerary for later this year...
>
>Looks like an awesome trip.

Yes, parts of that are true. Will reply with more details tomorrow. There wasnt a death, but ther was a bad accident resulting in closure of many routes and sectors. We got by without issue though it was frustrating to not be able to visit all the sectors.

alrob
23/08/2011
10:36:36 PM
Tsk Tsk Phil. Surely by now you should have realised that the majority of opinions on this forum now just come from the lazy, fat, old few who like to stoke the fires of others just so someone will actually talk to them/with them. Any a hole's a goal for them.

Thats why I gave up on this place a long time ago. And I'm not happy that I've had to come back after you told me about this. There will be slander by the bucket full on the next blog about more of our misadventures.....all at your expense, as punishment for dragging me in!

So just accept that folks like Old Douche Harrold really have no life outside of this website. Because if they did, they would obviously be off doing more productive things then stirring shit. Its like when you hear young school children yell irelevant things at you like 'Hey guy with the hat!' Thats all their juvenile minds can come up with. That and masturbation.

So, in conclusion, 7a/23 F6C/V1+ FOX8 BBC2 GOLD104.3 00110111001010 aaaaaaaaand 69!

Goodnight! PS: Keep reading our blog! Cos we'll keep writing it :D

IdratherbeclimbingM9
23/08/2011
10:55:43 PM
On 23/08/2011 alrob wrote:
>Thats why I gave up on this place a long time ago. And I'm not happy that
>I've had to come back after you told me about this.


Welcome back alrob!
Hmm.
With 1088 posts your history would indicate otherwise than not happy?

>August 2011 1

>July 2011 1

>May 2011 1

>April 2011 2

>September 2010 1

>July 2010 1

>November 2009 1

>October 2009 1

>August 2009 4

>July 2009 2

>June 2009 3

>May 2009 2

>April 2009 5

>March 2009 2

>January 2009 2

>December 2008 4

>October 2008 1

>June 2008 2

>April 2008 2

>March 2008 4

>February 2008 10

>January 2008 7

>December 2007 4

>November 2007 4

>October 2007 22

>September 2007 9

>August 2007 1

... and etc!

One Day Hero
24/08/2011
12:59:31 AM
On 23/08/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>
>Does that mean you've thumbs downed me? How do I check my status again?
>More points on the board!
>
I'm up to to 20........how are you going in the amateur league, Wide?

ajfclark
24/08/2011
8:19:31 AM
On 24/08/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 23/08/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>
>>Does that mean you've thumbs downed me? How do I check my status again?
>>More points on the board!
>>
>I'm up to to 20........how are you going in the amateur league, Wide?

From memory the ignore stats didn't show up unless you had a profile thread topic added. Not sure if we ever asked Mike to fix that bug,
Wendy
24/08/2011
8:27:16 AM
Well, fŻck me, I finally worked out how to find those stats, and I've got 5! And here I was deluding myself that I was nice and personable and generally inoffensive. Clearly, I was wrong too! Still, I am but a grasshopper ...
simey
24/08/2011
8:38:48 AM
Geez, I'm a complete lightweight. I've only got 3 people voting me off the island.
simey
24/08/2011
8:42:04 AM
On 23/08/2011 alrob wrote:
>Goodnight! PS: Keep reading our blog! Cos we'll keep writing it :D

Only if you change the name to Captains of Crotch.
simey
24/08/2011
9:10:08 AM
On 24/08/2011 davidn wrote:
>I took the name Captains of Crotch as meaning they might actually get laid...

Jeeezus, that is about as likely as M9 throwing laps in Hollow Mountain Cave. In fact M9 should do a cameo appearance in CoC with his own trip report.

ajfclark
24/08/2011
9:12:21 AM
Could he do the first aided ascent of Wheel of Life?
pecheur
24/08/2011
9:19:36 AM
On 24/08/2011 ajfclark wrote:
>Could he do the first aided ascent of Wheel of Life?

Haha, who needs Ethan Pringle's knee bar spots when you can set up a portaledge ...
widewetandslippery
24/08/2011
9:30:35 AM
So how do you find those stats.

nmonteith
24/08/2011
9:54:07 AM
On 24/08/2011 Wendy wrote:
>Well, fŻck me, I finally worked out how to find those stats, and I've got
>5! And here I was deluding myself that I was nice and personable and generally
>inoffensive. Clearly, I was wrong too! Still, I am but a grasshopper ...

I'm a mod and I still don't know how to see my own stats. I can't even work out how to add a topic to my profile??

phil_nev
24/08/2011
9:59:03 AM
@ trog,

Ok so the story goes, late last year a very strong fenchie was trying an old open project in between Tennessee and Líamphi sectors. The route was bolted with 8mm expansion bolts placed in hollow rock. The poor guy fell on one of the bolts which pulled resulting in a nasty ground fall where he broke both wrists and both ankles. I was told by some locals that he will make a reasonable recovery but never reach his previous climbing ability (he was climbing 8c+/9a prior to the accident... Hi ODH , your still a tool!) due to the extent and severity of the injuries.

What I found out while in the tarn, was that a lot of the crags are actually on private land. In addition, the laws in France state that if someone has an accident on your property you can be liable for damages etc. Now the frenchie in question didnít sue anyone, but the accident sure did scare the landowners. The knee-jerk reaction was to close the entire area off to climbers. The CAF (Climbing association of France) managed to negotiate the reopening of certain areas and sectors based on a a few conditions. These were:
- All routes bolted with 8mm and 10mm expansion were to closed. The first 3 bolts removed with a no entry tag placed wee the first bolt would have been. These routes would need to be re-equipped before being climbable again
- Routes bolted with 12mm expansions or Glue-ins would be ok
- Continued negations with landowners regarding access to the crags, with a number of alternatives being considered, including a permit/waiver system... Letís hope this isnít the case! That said, I guess itís a better option than the alternative of a complete closure.

Overall this meant a large number of routes were closed. The main sectors that were affected were:
- L-amphi, Naviere, Líoasif, Planete causes, arc-en ciel, calemez vous, dromadiare, gullich (These entire sectors were closed, bar maybe 1-2 routes)
- A few other sectors had closed routes also, but you could still climb there

To give you an idea of how serious they are taking the situation, while climbing at de que fas aqui sector one day, the police arrived and questioned us about what we were doing. Asking us if we had placed the bolts, removed any no entry tags etc. Of course, we hadnít, and they were on their way.


We first heard about the situation in march/april this year, but by that stage we had booked and paid for flights, accommodation etc and didnít really know what to do. The info available on the web was limited I contacted a number of people via 8a.nu and other sites to try and gauge what would be open/closed. The info was still fuzzy and I was getting contrasting reports from everyone. In the end , we decided to bite the bullet and try our luck. As you read from the TR, we had a great time and there were plenty of routes open to climb on. That said, by the end of the trip ~5 weeks, we were starting to run out of routes to do, and the situation seemed to be changing week-to-week. Some rebolting had taken place while we were there which was great, but some routes were actually open at the start of our trip and closed by the end.

We climbed at Tennessee, de que fas aqui, shaddocks, le trone, ces beach, la muse, Moulin a huile, club house, holliandis, canyon (Pretty much all routes open), as well as a the odd route at one of the predominantly closed crags. We spent the first few days scoping out what was open/closed and had a pretty good idea of where and what we could climb early on. You also have Boffi, Cantobre and the Jonte nearby as a backup all, all of which are amazing!

Presuming the situation remains unchanged, I wouldnít hesitate in recommending it as a destination, definitely an amazing place and one of my favourite places Iíve climbed anywhere.

Hope this helps.

nmonteith
24/08/2011
10:12:36 AM
It should be noted that almost all crags at Gorge de Tarn are within 30secs and 5 minutes walk of the road, so it's not a great drama to go and do one or two routes at a crag and go elsewhere if the selection is limited due to routes being closed. Did you visit Gorge de Jonte Phil? I never went there and haven't spoken to anyone who has...

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There are 89 messages in this topic.

 

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