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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
A sunny Sunday arfternoon at Nowra (TR)
ropedonkey
29/05/2011
9:33:10 PM
After a lazy weekend i thought that a late Sunday afternoon climb at Thompson Point would be a great way to finish. What i didn't realise was how bloody funny it was going to be! Now before i start i don't mind beginners in climbing, its great to see them having a hoot and progressing... but this party was something else!!!
It started at descent gully (where else) and warming up on the climb next to these guys they mentioned they were going to tackle the trad crack just along a bit, to which i replied its bolted now.. Wow, bloody hell, why would that happen was their reply, oh well its a sport cliff i said... Ten minutes later after i walked around near them he had 2 bits of gear in and had clipped the last five bolts, i thought you were trad climbing i asked? yeah well the gear was sparse so i clipped the bolts, easy climb thou!...
The gang of 4 then proceeded to top rope the climb directly thru the anchors!!!
Meanwhile Girl 1 asks Dude 1 aren't you going to take off all that stuff ( roughly enough trad gear for 7 pitches)... No its cool says the Dude
We then jumped on another climb and over heard them talk about trying "Potato Junkies" the 24 roof (ok we were eaves dropping) now this started alarm bells!!!
My partner wanted to go climb something else but i said no way this could be funny....
The two dudes!!! (as this was their fav word) sent the girls to the official watching rock and proceeded to set up the belay...the only problem was, this was turtle wall belay and they belayed each other around to Potato Junkie belay... and then it began!!
Stick clip first bolt, reach out and miss first hand hold and fall off.. Pull up on the rope and hang there a bit, then a bit more and yep just a little more!!, Girl 1 on rock... at least your having a go!! Girl 2 on rock... yeah your just trying to work it out... Guy on rope ... no its not the sequence i have that worked out, its just whether i WANT to do it today... go in hard and lower off first bolt, proceed to belay each other back around turtle wall to official watching rock and view pictures on i-phone.
A fun Sunday had by all....
Ps the Sheriff of Shipley would of had a field day..........
davidb
29/05/2011
10:30:26 PM
Dude!! i was there that my friends and i called them the awsome foursome!!

great conditions over all

rodw
30/05/2011
7:58:21 AM
Just make sure they didnt tick that 24 on thecrag.com :)



Paulie
30/05/2011
9:36:31 PM
Potato Junkies, where is that? A companion route to Cowboy Junkies? Also, has that crack to the RHS of the descent gully been bolted? That's a shame, was a good solid trad lead with very marginal gear...
Winston Smith
30/05/2011
9:40:18 PM
On 30/05/2011 Paulie wrote:
> Also,
>has that crack to the RHS of the descent gully been bolted? That's a shame,
>was a good solid trad lead with very marginal gear...

I've had a whinge about that already. I'll save you the machine-gunning you'll get for suggesting such a preposterous idea:

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=92375&Replies=1

IdratherbeclimbingM9
30/05/2011
9:48:13 PM
On 30/05/2011 Winston Smith wrote:
>I've had a whinge about that already. I'll save you the machine-gunning
>you'll get for suggesting such a preposterous idea:
>
That wasn't a machine-gunning young Winston, it was just a couple of snipers!
You should hark back to the hammering that Orwell got, on the hammer-CJ&Co. at the Pines thread, if you really want to see a machine-gunning!
Heh, heh, heh.

Paulie
31/05/2011
5:06:37 PM
On 30/05/2011 Winston Smith wrote:
>I've had a whinge about that already. I'll save you the machine-gunning
>you'll get for suggesting such a preposterous idea:

Guess if it's in any way scary or committing, then it must be bolted up that way...a real shame, I found it was a solid test piece (albeit a little sandy) for the grade, now with bolts it would just be another mindless walk up...

hangdog
31/05/2011
5:15:20 PM


>, now with bolts it would just be another mindless
>walk up...

You dont have to use the bolts if you dont want to.

rodw
31/05/2011
5:55:36 PM
Yeah if you time it during the day the reflection off all the other steel around nowra will blind you enough that you won't even see the bolts in question as you jam your way to glory.

There are 9 messages in this topic.

 

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