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Blue Ruin 1 - Three Amigos 0

9:37:23 PM
Neil and I headed up this fantastic route yesterday. CLimate change indeed- T shirts in the shade in the Grose in September!
Two previous attempts had been rained off. This attempt was nearly aborted for liquid problems of another kind, but Team Tummy Trouble hung in there with excellent sphincter control and a speedy ascent keeping the route pristine.

Unfortunately our ascent wasnt quite clean, with a lot of grunting at the roof on Pitch 2 and an error not traversing quite far enough on crimpy pitch 5 with a battle of forearm pump. Both these pitches were superb. Perhaps Pitch 2 could be graded 25, and Pitch 5, 23. Pitch 2 is such an amazing seam to follow and great moves. It would be classic anywhere. The exposure on Pitch 5 is tremendous.
Pitch 1 and 3 were also very good and I definitely got the best deal leading odd numbers.
Pitch 4 was 'orrible, but having done Big Trad Thong in the past we just reminded ourselves that that whole climb was of similar quality, and weren't we lucky to be on Blue ruin which I recall gazing at longingly when grovelling up a wet chimney a couple of years ago.
We didnt find Pitch 1 too sandy, and broke very little off, though we probably are quite good at recognising dodgy holds.

Thanks Mikl for your incredible hard work in equipping this route.

Neils 100m static had got us to the ground quickly. After rapping on a single rope back to the lunch ledge it was a pain to haul up, firstly to lunch ledge, then to the top so I could rappel on double ropes. It wasnt helped by the brain snap of tying the knot on the shorter side , leading to a 120m section of rope to pull down. (Sorry Neil, just getting you back for those crazy abseiling things you got us into).

5 stars.

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There are 21 messages in this topic.


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