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Blueys/Nowra roadtrip

jan

26-Apr-2004
2:54:25 PM

don't get me wrong, farting is a great thing especially when you go a bit fez in the bush, but you obviously wern't in the vacinity of adam, don't know what he had been eating in preparation, but it was hell bad!!!!!!!
bomb trip though... hi danielle

adamk

26-Apr-2004
4:33:56 PM

Did you drop any little 'bombs' yourself Jan?

ness

26-Apr-2004
11:48:59 PM

butan-1-ol and methane - mmm yummy.

deadpoint

27-Apr-2004
9:34:49 AM

I believe if you read Mark's comments on Throbing Pole of Love (19), "Grades are not given away willy nilly in this neck of the woods, you have to earn them".

27-Apr-2004
11:06:04 AM

With Mark and Graeme H grades I think it's all a bit "he he he ha ha ha" back of the bus type stuff really... hint to future Nowra guide book editors - stop the silliness and amend the stupid grades!
For really silly stuff try the Mark W routes on the left hand end of the Vine wall, heaps of 20's going on 24! with heinous boulder problem cruxes etc.
Let consensus rule - if the grades' dodgy... change it!

Hmmm perhaps a new thread is emerging here?


mousey

27-Apr-2004
11:14:14 AM

the local (crag x) policy of courtesy seems to be FA gives it a grade, but any immediate repeat FA's can also chip in until a consesus is reached- more of a discussion than a decision eg. rod ' yeh it was about 14 or 15' ness ' no way it was 11 or 12' josh (thoughts) 'it would have been 6 at nowra or 23 at the glen but ive never climbed here so i dont know' rod ' ok 13?' everyone ' ok then' kev 'mmm this is nice fosters...'


HM33

27-Apr-2004
11:30:23 AM

whats wrong with an amusing sandbag!

27-Apr-2004
12:22:15 PM

Certainly don't mind the odd amusing sandbag, but when it's every single route put up by a person it just gets a tad boring. Wouldn't it be better to keep the punters guessing and mix it up a bit?
Community consensus should (eventually) iron out grade discrepancies etc. with follow up editions of guides etc. Some classic examples might be Serpentine (31 - 29) (perhaps still 31 if you place all the gear on lead like HB, or some of Claws old 23's about the place (Araps (down to zero?), You Yangs - pain and frequency(28)) or perhaps some of the Greg James routes at Pt Perp - many a bit skewed to the sandbag end of the spectrum...


Damietta

27-Apr-2004
8:15:09 PM

Not sure if 'Northern Exposure' and 'Rex Hunts Love Child' were put up by Greg James, but they are very solid for the grade and good ego checkers.

Have you climbed at Muscle Beach? Used to climb there with Fance and at the end of the day forearms were singed from seconding John up a dozen or so stiff, overhanging pumpy routes on natural pro.


adski

29-Apr-2004
1:55:06 PM

*When you dont have a knife, nut tools can be used to spread nutella
*When you dont have any loo paper, nut tools can be used to wipe your butt

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Coming soon: Newcastle Climber Alerts!

This compact device emits an audible alarm when
entering the proximity of NewcastleOne and
NewcastleTwo.

$39.95 each or $49.95 with optional Hissy-O-Meter
for accurate Hissy-Fit measurement.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

adamk

29-Apr-2004
4:16:50 PM

You newcastle boys are hairyarse!!!!!! (ryhming slang for hilarious). Me thinks more posts are required from Newcastle one and newcastle two. Would especially like to know
a/ the hardest grade climb you can do with a heavy backpack on

b/ the hardest grade climb you can onsite while your belayer talks on the phone

c/did you do West face of the mirror ball and how good is it!!!!!!!

d/can u jump start a car with a nuttool?


remdan

29-Apr-2004
4:21:09 PM

you need a proper hissy-fit to be able to measure them!

adamk

29-Apr-2004
4:24:39 PM

U da hissy man!!!!!!! how come u havent replied to my text u little getting bigger all the time bee - hutch!!!!!!! (Danielle)


remdan

29-Apr-2004
4:30:57 PM

Sassquotch!


remdan

29-Apr-2004
4:32:07 PM

hike was good.


Nick Kaz

29-Apr-2004
5:58:51 PM

would especially like to know
> a/ the hardest grade climb you can do with a heavy backpack on
>
> b/ the hardest grade climb you can onsite while your belayer talks on
>the phone
>
> c/did you do West face of the mirror ball and how good is it!!!!!!!
>
> d/can u jump start a car with a nuttool?

Hey, I must be Newcastle two, I think?
a) So far 20
b) The phone thing was a one off for your amusement.
c) No we didn't by the time we got up the next day it was well late so we went and got disappointed at My Kiera (the gong) what a choss heap.
d) No we cannot jumpstart crappy astras with our nut tool, that one was too expensive.

"Coming soon: Newcastle Climber Alerts!

This compact device emits an audible alarm when
entering the proximity of NewcastleOne and
NewcastleTwo."

That explains why I get crags to myself these days, and I thought it was 'cos Chris (newcaslte one) smelled funnny. Oh well.

Nick.

cragbum

29-Apr-2004
6:33:38 PM

newcastle one towards newcastle two

thanks nick for saying i smell funny (good mate), im sure it you that scares people away!!!!!, ****and i have to thank the guys who jump started my car***
also nick what wrong with your car for climbing trips then, o i remember its smashed up!!!!!!! hahahaha


rodw

29-Apr-2004
8:57:30 PM

Back to the grade thingy, If you are putting up a lot of routes in isolation, cleaning top roping, bolting etc etc, by the time you do it, you have the moves pretty wired and its hard to be subjective about the grade, so the "sandbag" may not be intentional. For example the first route you put up you say is 16, next ones alot harder so you say 20, the next ones isnt harder than route two but harder than route one so you say 18. If youve stuffed up the first grade unintentionally its easy to see how the whole area becomes "sandbagged".

Also depends at lot on the FA style of climbing, he might have found it easy. Grades are subjective anyway, so in any new area kill the ego, jump on something well within your grade for a warm up and use that as you base for comparing grades. If that 16 you tried first felt like 19, then that 20 next to it, put up by the same person sure as hell won't feel like a 20.

Ive also noticed alot more people whinge when they think they have been"sandbagged", claiming the grade should lowered, but routes over graded, in general, are just described mostly as "soft for the garde" which tends to attract a lot less flack. Wonder why that is?

Just my 2 cents worth


Rich

30-Apr-2004
11:51:06 AM

On 29/04/2004 rodw wrote:
>Ive also noticed alot more people whinge when they think they have been"sandbagged",
>claiming the grade should lowered, but routes over graded, in general,
>are just described mostly as "soft for the garde" which tends to attract
>a lot less flack. Wonder why that is?
>

cos people luv getting up stuff that according to others (ie the grade) should be 'hard' for them.

>Just my 2 cents worth

Steve M

5-May-2004
10:00:19 AM

Most things with stars are pretty well graded at Nowra I think. There is definitely the odd sandbag but in the new (not that new now) guide I would say most of the routes that get traffic are only +- 1 from the grade. There's certainly not a lot of soft touches around but that's not a bad thing.

There are 60 messages in this topic.