On 4/03/2011 davidn wrote:
>Mr Free Soloist can ignore it, so he calls it grade 10. Mr. Bumbly can't, so he calls
>it grade 15. How's that helpful?
True, but when was the last time you took the grading of a free-soloist into consideration?
I am sure that you have 'learnt flavours', ie certain first ascentionists seemingly grade consistently hard, while others seemingly grade consistently soft. Once you get to know the idiosyncrasies you then allow for them! eg ... Oh, that was an early K. Lindorf route at Buffalo was it? ... then beware, as it is likely to be a bold runout!
~> It is an interesting game we play, is it not! ... though I am still learning to come to terms with 'grade creep'.
~> I am better at identifying age creep, eg, "the last time I climbed that, it seemed easier"!
Heh, heh, heh.
>Reading Ewbank's notes, it doesn't seem like he suggests grading higher
>for fear factor either.
True; unless he is sandbagging all of us with the 'exposure' component!