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Speigals Overhang [North Jawbones, Cathedral Range

angusmcmahon

13-Jan-2011
12:40:01 PM

Hey All,

Went for a quick climb on Speigal's last Saturday, went well.

The walk up to the saddle is being redone at the moment, the track is apparently closed, although the guys working on the track seem to be fairly cool with people walking through.

Pay special attention as you reach the turn off point to goto the north, as it has changed a bit after the fires and track maintenance. We overshot and ended up having to contour across from just below the saddle. It was super prickly in shorts and thongs.

The undergrowth has taken off post fire, the walk across the base of north jawbone is a little more dense and less defined, I'm sure that will change in time.

The climb itself is clean, there was a bit of cut tape just above first pitch; I reset my line to go treasure hunting and was disappointed.

About 10m below the main overhang, there seemed to be a large loose piece of rock. I reckon a decent fall on it would pull it out onto 2nd belay.

Jungle was looking good... might have a crack at that once this rain stops.

Angus


Pat

16-Feb-2011
2:32:36 PM

Hi angus,

we have a mutual friend in Nick Burke. Send me a PM and we can arrange a trip together.

rolsen1

16-Feb-2011
2:42:00 PM

On 13/01/2011 angusmcmahon wrote:
snip
>and ended up having to contour across from just below the saddle. It was
>super prickly in shorts and thongs.

I the descent track is super prickly and getting from speigals to bath time gurgles is terribly overgrown with boneseed? My climbing partner reckons it will be last time he goes there, not sure what can be done - may establish a couple of rap routes?

Looks like the mice must...?? has new bolts, and would be worth doing


Pat

16-Feb-2011
6:24:48 PM

pm'ed you rolsen

angusmcmahon

20-Mar-2011
2:09:59 PM

Ha that crazy Pat, will do! Sorry about the delayed reply - I thought I'd get an email or something if the thread was replied to.

I don't know what the answer is with the track being overgrown - people walking through will erode its invasiveness fairly quickly.


JamesMc

20-Mar-2011
6:02:50 PM

The thistles at Cathedral Ra are incredible now. Perhaps a working bee is required at NJB?? Perhaps rather than re-establish the steep, loose, and possibly erosion prone descent track, a rap route would be better. The trouble with a rap route is distance. It's 120m down. Three raps for double 50 metre ropes. Five raps for single 50m rope, assuming that either stances are 25m apart or you use hanging changeovers. I reckon a lot of Cathedral Ra climbers probably only have single ropes and won't like hanging changeovers.

JamesMc

Paul

20-Mar-2011
6:28:25 PM

On 20/03/2011 JamesMc wrote:
, a rap route would be better.
> The trouble with a rap route is distance. It's 120m down. Three raps
>for double 50 metre ropes. Five raps for single 50m rope, assuming that
>either stances are 25m apart or you use hanging changeovers. I reckon
>a lot of Cathedral Ra climbers probably only have single ropes and won't
>like hanging changeovers.
>
>JamesMc

That sounds like a good idea, I would hapily donate some time + hardware


Pat

20-Mar-2011
9:24:00 PM

Rap chains exist on NJB. Two double rope descents down near Speigals.

Fish Boy

20-Mar-2011
10:26:24 PM

On 20/03/2011 Pat wrote:
>Rap chains exist on NJB. Two double rope descents down near Speigals.

They are sorta ballsy to get to, and then you rap off a funky tree. Done it a lot, but not a sustainable answer to a popular crag. Maybe a working bee to build a little track?

Paz

20-Mar-2011
11:00:57 PM

On 20/03/2011 JamesMc wrote:
Five raps for single 50m rope, assuming that
>either stances are 25m apart or you use hanging changeovers. I reckon
>a lot of Cathedral Ra climbers probably only have single ropes and won't
>like hanging changeovers.
>
>JamesMc

haha....five rap stations, that's funny....... maybe we should put in 10 just in case someone's 50 has its ends cut....just to be safe...

i think the only reasonable solution is to invite this man to the range....

Access T CliffCare

21-Mar-2011
12:50:59 PM

Sounds like the prickles have taken over. I haven't had a chance to get back there since last year when I was first checking it out and once after that. Didn't appear to be much of a problem with prickle bushes then.

There is some work that needs to be done to look after the area for climbers traffic. It sounds like people are still using the descent where they used to rather than accessing the gully (unless that is overgrown with prickles) Chatted about this at the time http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp Anyway, I can look at organizing something when I get back from Vietnam in April if there are enough keen bodies. I also really want to try and sort something out for the climbers track that leaves the main track when heading up to the cliff base. The first bit is really bad.

Cheers,

Tracey
* btw, I think I might know that man Machete..


Pat

21-Mar-2011
2:37:38 PM

On 20/03/2011 Fish Boy wrote:
>On 20/03/2011 Pat wrote:
>>Rap chains exist on NJB. Two double rope descents down near Speigals.
>
>They are sorta ballsy to get to, and then you rap off a funky tree. Done
>it a lot, but not a sustainable answer to a popular crag. Maybe a working
>bee to build a little track?

I don't find them too ballsy and I'm a bit of a bumbly, but agree that the tree is funky and probably not a long term solution - but sounds like the descent track isn't either at the moment. Would be happy to contribute to a thoughtful abseil solution or track work effort.

rolsen1

21-Mar-2011
3:34:29 PM

On 21/03/2011 Pat wrote:
>On 20/03/2011 Fish Boy wrote:
>>On 20/03/2011 Pat wrote:
>>>Rap chains exist on NJB. Two double rope descents down near Speigals.
>>
>>They are sorta ballsy to get to, and then you rap off a funky tree. Done
>>it a lot, but not a sustainable answer to a popular crag. Maybe a working
>>bee to build a little track?
>
>I don't find them too ballsy and I'm a bit of a bumbly, but agree that
>the tree is funky and probably not a long term solution - but sounds like
>the descent track isn't either at the moment. Would be happy to contribute
>to a thoughtful abseil solution or track work effort.

The other problem with the tree is that it makes you rap the line. I've done Speigals a few times over the years and usually there is more than one group doing it - its get a lot of traffic. A rap route that didn't follow a climb would be best.

When we went last, I wanted to rap but the other three didn't like the thought of getting to the chains - although they are new to leading they are quite experienced.

danchilds

21-Mar-2011
5:40:31 PM

Hi Chockstoners...first time caller, long time listener of the forums.

i had a beautiful sunny 25deg day up at north jawbone almost a month ago (a very busy day with 5 parties!) that was spoilt only by the bloody prickle bushes! Unfortunate news is yes, they have taken over, going crazy in their pursuit of regeneration and asserting their dominance post fire... thankfully they should die down once the upper canopy is reestablished.... the access track to the bottom (from main track) is pretty non-prickly for most of it, the access (descent) gully on the northern side is by far the worst

A working bee would be a brilliant idea, these areas would be good to get some attention:

a) cutting away of 'prickle bush' from the access gully (on northern side), and to a lesser extent on the other side also.
b) stabilisation and maybe some fluro flagging tape (to encourage the continued formation of only 1 track) of the climber's track from the main track (@ 'the large boulders' now, just past the 1m long steel handrail that parks put in)

a lot of parties up there that day were moaning about the prickles (me and my partner included). many ended up carrying all their kit up on their last climb so they could walk off down the track at the end of the day instead of prickle bashing, not a bad idea if you have packed lightly and eaten all your scroggin at lunch.

we need to think very carefully before anything was to happen with rap stations (not a cue to get into an ethics debate), i mean yes sounds like a great idea on the surface (convenience factor, get to play with toys) but really, without the prickles, and with a few hours labour the walk down will be pretty quick and straightforward once again, probably faster than multiple raps, i would say definitely faster for sure.

my advice for your next cathedrals mish is to wear pants and maybe bring a machete or a grubber with you to begin the job.

oh and big up's to Parks for all the work they have been doing up there recently. i loved the rock steps on the track and the whole sugarloaf area is amazing, they deserve some credit.


Pat

21-Mar-2011
6:26:44 PM

Agreed on stone work on the main access track. Pretty huge effort. Personally the steel hand rail looks a bit dicky compared with the high standard of the rock work. Seems strange placement. I guess the rock height in that place doesn't comply with some reg.

You might find that cutting down prickly acacia isn't exactly welcomed with open arms - even though I understand the sentiment having got countless Cathedral splinters over the years coiling ropes at the end of the day.

The bottom of South Jawbone was hard going the other day. Can't see it going away anytime soon though. Amazed at how high and thick the regrowth of the tall growing silver wattle has been in just the last 6 months at Sth JB. Impressive recovery.


JamesMc

21-Mar-2011
7:49:37 PM

Possibly not good to rap straight down Spiegals Overhang. I've heard of (possibly apocryphal) of someone getting the rope caught in the crack when pulling it down and ultimately cutting it.

JamesMc

rolsen1

21-Mar-2011
7:58:36 PM

On 21/03/2011 JamesMc wrote:
>Possibly not good to rap straight down Spiegals Overhang. I've heard of
>(possibly apocryphal) of someone getting the rope caught in the crack when
>pulling it down and ultimately cutting it.
>
>JamesMc

Sorry, no talking about the rap from the chains to the right of Spiegals which gets you to the tree on Spegials 1st / 2nd belay just below the first overlap from which you can rap to the ground. Which means you then rap the rest of the way down Speigals - which is still not ideal if other groups are climbing it.

gfdonc

24-May-2011
10:19:55 AM

(bump) I am heading up there on Friday with a group and might be able to put some time and effort into improving things over the weekend.

In summary what I expect is:
1. The descent gully is overgrown at the bottom and needs a prune. Those prickle bushes are legendary. We'll take a saw.
2. Last I was there the bolt runner on Greg's Direct was a skinny rusty carrot which threw off a bracket despite using a solid-gate biner. Fortunately my leader didn't fall off. I'll replace it with some modern metal.
3. I will be checking the belay station on Xanthene carefully. There used to be a piton there but it was removed and I recall the belay was fiddly without it.
4. Will check the carrot on Xanthene p2 but I recall it seemed OK.
5. We might take some track marking tape.
6. Rap station. I'm not really in favour of creating a rap descent down the slabs but if there's a partially complete one I'd consider finalising it. Can someone extend the comments above and clarify this? Or: would it be possible to do 2x50m or 2x60m raps using the big ledge at the top of Route One as the intermediate point?

rolsen1

24-May-2011
10:59:00 AM

I think a rap is needed.

RE the rap see http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=1&MessageID=39368&Replies=4&PagePos=0&Sort=#newpost

Quote "If you are talking about the chains above "Captains of Industry" which is a gr 18 variant finish to Spiegals
Overhang, two 50's get you to the tree below the first overlap on SO, its a hassle to rap off the tee tree,
but then, so is walking down... the original plan was to have another set on the first belay of xenith/
retribution (neat little ledge on arete above roofs) will make for an exciting drop to your bags and cleaner
rope pull (plus rapping back down the trade route is crazy and crowded), on the day the batteries ran
out... also explains why the last bolt on 'C of I' is showing a bit. So thats the plan anyway, I will get out
there soon, unless of course someone beats me to it."

I thought the bolt on xanthene looked pretty small and old (I didn't want to test it) as well but this was a number of years ago, maybe 8-10 and it may have been replaced since then. I dont think greg direct is too bad from memory and there may be wires placements near by anyway - have climbed this in the last couple of years.

gfdonc

24-May-2011
11:09:16 AM

Yes I know those chains on CofI and I wouldn't advocate scrambling down to them. Skull and crossbones stuff. It looked like someone's attempt at a sports route and a bit of an eyesore.

I'll look into establishing a new rap at the left end of the buttress. The ledge at the top of Route One is terrific and also out of the way of any traffic up Spiegals. I'm just not sure how far it is to the ground from there, I ran out of rope once many years back trying to get there in one pitch from the bottom, but a 60m rope might do it.

Have you got a copy of that photo without the legend on it?

There are 54 messages in this topic.