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Mt Alexander


nmonteith

9-Sep-2002
9:06:53 AM

Nick and I spent Saturday at Mt Alexander rather than take the big drive to the Grampians again. We went with little expectations... thinking it would be just another small poxy Melbourne granite crag like Black HIll. We were much mistaken. The area is small but has really good looking lines and features. The weathered granite is of superb quality and has some amazing features. For once Matt Brooks has done some great routes, that are well bolted and un-contrived. I can't believe this area was only developed in the last 10 years! I reccomend this area to anyone who is willing to drive for 1.5 hours from Melbourne for Mt Buffalo style quality granite.


Mike

9-Sep-2002
9:38:30 AM

Yeah, Mt Alex is our backyard, being only 15 mins drive away. I think we know every move of every line within our abilities. Hence the considerable detail in the guide section. See Chockstone pages on Mt Alexander.

What did you get up?


nmonteith

9-Sep-2002
11:28:38 AM

Dick Mc Ginty 15m 19 - freakn hard start and desperate finish
Little Bo Peep 10m 21 - nice and balancy - got the onsight - just!
My Black Sheep 8m 15 - very fun. cool knobby features
Painless 10m 20 - like the you yangs but better rock
and a few other bolted easy routes we couldn't find in the guide. We also checked the 'awesome' sport crag of The Pullout. Just like Verdon... overhanging pockets with big bolts. ;-)
Nick and I will be back to have a go at Scottish Reign...


Mike

9-Sep-2002
12:03:52 PM

Sounds like you did the best of Dog Rocks, with the exception of it's prize attraction, Scottish and a few harder lines or off widths. If you're finding things too easy try Old Dogs New Tricks grade 22, and Mo Money grade 25 on the next visit.

Well done on the Little Bo Peep onsight. A shorter but harder version of Peroxide Blonde at Buffalo I reckon. For me the crux is making that last clip without peeling.

Don't discount Wabbit Wocks for your next visit. Many think it's better than Dogs, except for the walk-in. Everyone loves Inquistion, even though it's only grade 14.

We didn't get out last weekend, due to weird weather and various hesitations there-in. Next weekend for sure!


nmonteith

9-Sep-2002
12:11:01 PM

it was bloody freezing up there. it was 8'c without wind chill.. and it was blowing a gale!

Matty

19-Sep-2002
2:04:03 PM

I will be climbing at Mt Alexandra from Mon 23rd till Fri 27th
Weather permitting, hoping to get 5 days of good climbing in.
I'll keep those recommendations in mind below, but sounds like old go new tricks and mo money are a tad beyond myself...but as always, you can only try, fall off, try again, fall off...(then again, I top rope, must do a lead course one day)


Mike

19-Sep-2002
3:24:51 PM

Five days at Mt Alex!! Holy cow dude, you'll have ticked every line twice. If you've got that much time on your hands why not head to Araps or Grampians? Mt Alex is more of a day trip area. It's only us locals that still go out there many times each year. In 5 days you'll be sick of short granite boulders believe me. You could probably camp at the Oak Plantation near Wabbit Wocks, but still, 5 days free to climb - that's like a climbers dream come true. I'd spend it on somewhere truely worthy.


nmonteith

19-Sep-2002
3:48:46 PM

At least do a tour of the granite areas. 1 Day at Camels Hump, then Black Hill, then maybe 2 days at Alexander.

joemor

19-Sep-2002
5:20:39 PM

go strait to araps or the gramps, there the only places in vic that can keep you busy for 5 days.

joe

Matty

20-Sep-2002
4:55:46 PM

I'm staying at Lake Eppalock so it's probably going to a combo of some, MTB riding, Climbing, Hiking, fishing, BBQing, beer etc...
Might head down to Macedon for a day trip based on what you guys are saying, then again a day trip to the gramps is not out of the question from there.


Mike

20-Sep-2002
5:03:57 PM

Matty, Macedon's Camel's Hump is a great locale (climbing on volcanic rock!), but its still too wet a time of year for it. Even on sunny days the rain forest and the rock is damp. Best return in summer for Camels. However the other suggestion of Black Hill is good, it's only a short distance from Eppalock. Have fun at Mt Alex! I suggest you start at Dog Rocks (1 minute access) and then hit Wabbit Wocks (bit of a walk-in).

Matty

3-Oct-2002
3:26:28 PM

After having spent a few days in Mt Alex, I can recommend it as a spot to drop in a do a few climbs, not as good as gramps or araps but worth the visit. Prepare for a few scrapes and bumps but that's granite for you. The weather also has a tendancy to pass through there, IE wind, rain sleet, more wind..but if you pick your days it's pretty good up there. (light a fire to keep warm, just check that it's not a day of total fire ban) Had a look at Dog Rocks and Wabbit Wocks, plenty to do at both. I would have liked to have had a go at Inquisition but as I don't to lead yet it seemed a tad difficult to setup from a top rope without a big swing out...but it looked like a very nice climb. Wabbit Wocks is good if you want to knock over a lot of climbs very quickly as they are quick & easy to setup, and most of the climbs are reasonably short.
In a nut shell, there is plenty out there to keep you interested for a couple of days..A lot better than any days work.


Bluey

28-Aug-2007
10:48:09 AM

Parks Vic site says dispersed camping is allowed - Any tips on camping locations? (for someone who hasn't been up there at all before i.e. dumbed down directions appreciated)


shiltz

30-Aug-2007
10:19:45 PM

I was up there in April and really enjoyed it to. Easy access and good rock. Little Bo Peep requires some concentration. I got it on the lead, my partner couldn't do it so I went back up a second time to get the draws and fell off. The moves are harder than Peroxide Blonde I would say but it is over very quickly. Also enjoyed Painless, My Black Sheep and Mercy. Scottish Reign looks great but has a killer start (I couldn't work it out). I will get back there again one day for Dick McGinty, Semantics and a few neat boulder problems down past Mobile Phone that we found too late in the day. Have the bouldering crowd discovered Mt Alex yet?

dalai

30-Aug-2007
10:30:53 PM

On 30/08/2007 shiltz wrote:
>Have the bouldering crowd discovered Mt Alex yet?

Yes... Charlie Creese wrote an article about the granite bouldering along the Calder Hwy including Mt Alex and published in a recent issue of Rock

sitcheh

2-Jun-2009
3:17:18 PM

It sounds like you are a minor local expert on Mt. ALexander. I was up there last week with a friend, and we spent 3 hours chasing our tails around the carpark trying to find the dog rocks. We got a few climbs in at Langs lookout before the day was over, and had a great day at Wabbit Wocks on Friday but never found Dog Rocks. Can you give me any pointers?


IdratherbeclimbingM9

2-Jun-2009
3:23:16 PM

dalai is the man, ... but in the meantime you could try this and further reading.


billk

2-Jun-2009
3:25:03 PM

On 2/06/2009 sitcheh wrote:
>It sounds like you are a minor local expert on Mt. ALexander. I was up
>there last week with a friend, and we spent 3 hours chasing our tails around
>the carpark trying to find the dog rocks. We got a few climbs in at Langs
>lookout before the day was over, and had a great day at Wabbit Wocks on
>Friday but never found Dog Rocks. Can you give me any pointers?

I seem to remember the guidebook giving a wrong distance somewhere. You need to just follow the other directions in the guidebook and its a cruisy 5 min walk in from the car park.


ajfclark

2-Jun-2009
3:29:43 PM

3.1km (IIRC, I'll check when I get home) up the road from where you turn onto Joseph Young Drive there is a gravel "car park" on the right. Park here and walk over the road and up the hill to Dog Rocks. I have no idea where the sign mentioned in the guidebook is.

The carpark with dog rocks visible to the west.

dalai

2-Jun-2009
3:43:13 PM

Just keep driving till a saddle with donuts in the middle of the road...

PS I don't know Mt Alex that well. Many Bendigo and Melbourne climbers have been there far more times!

There are 32 messages in this topic.