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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

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 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 55
Author
Mild Peril - Rated PG
One Day Hero
18/05/2010
4:38:37 PM
Yeah, that technogeek dude should get his head out of data sheets and do more climbing! I've taken heaps of whips on twin clipped doubles, no dramas at all!

Less bungy than one double? Yes

Less bungy than my clapped out old 10.5? No

Falls shocky enough to scare me into following 'the rules'? Of course not! The ropes stretch heaps, there's no way forces in a fall will be out of line with a clapped old single (which is what most of us do our falling on)

Anyway, technodude, you seem to have failed to respond to the point that a factor 2 (the time you should be actually worried about all this) on doubles will result in them being twins anyway! How do you deal with that little problem in your spec sheet dominated safety zone?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
18/05/2010
4:52:44 PM
On 18/05/2010 One Day Hero wrote:
(snip)
>Less bungy than my clapped out old 10.5? No
>
>Falls shocky enough to scare me into following 'the rules'? Of course
>not! The ropes stretch heaps, there's no way forces in a fall will be out
>of line with a clapped old single (which is what most of us do our falling
>on)
>
>(snip) safety zone?

Yeah, but I reckon my clapped out 11 is more clapped out than your 10.5.
Nyah, nyah,nyah-nyah-yah!
technogeekery
19/05/2010
10:53:12 AM
This is what I love about the interweb, anyone can play no matter how dull the intellect.

One day hero - if you think that something is safe purely because you've done it "heaps" you are a moron.
technogeekery
19/05/2010
3:23:32 PM
OKay, just had a look through some of your other posts, and I take that back, you are probably not a moron. But you are a rude prick. You don't know me, adn how much experience I have, how much climbing I do, so f--- off with the attitude.

Right, that settled - I don't know why you'd take a less-safe option in climbing when there is an easily available safer option.

I'm not going to post more on this subject, I didn't mean to overanalyse or have the bedbugs coming out for air.
One Day Hero
19/05/2010
5:59:02 PM
On 19/05/2010 technogeekery wrote:
>OKay, just had a look through some of your other posts, and I take that
>back, you are probably not a moron. But you are a rude prick. You don't
>know me, adn how much experience I have, how much climbing I do, so f---
>off with the attitude.
>
Just because I'm a rude prick, don't assume that you're not a moron!

Hmmm, I care not for how much climbing you do or experience you have. Some folk get stuff real quick, some climb for 20yrs at high grades and are still pretty dopey.....one is unrelated to the other, in my experience

>Right, that settled - I don't know why you'd take a less-safe option in
>climbing when there is an easily available safer option.
>
See, this is the bit I was trying to get at, is it always less safe to twin clip than double clip? You say yes because you're chickenshit about busting bolts (rated to 2.5 tons!)

I say no because;

1) The clusterfcuk shown in the photo is a problem which wouldn't have happened if the ropes were twin clipped. I suggest that mega rope drag + twisted ropes + possibly stuck ropes so the leader can't take in = a more dangerous situation than a potential factor 0.2 fall onto a bomber bolt with two ropes! Sorry, no data sheet on that, you have to think for yourself a bit.

2) Now, how about being on lead, 40m out from the belay, 5m above a nasty ledge, 1m above a good bolt, and just about to spoodge off?.....Do you care more about......

a) reducing the already pissy forces on the good bolt to an even lower number?

or b) being arrested by your ropes before you hit the spiky ledge and get snapped in two?

That's right, the answer is b)! Even if you've double clipped the whole pitch, you now twin clip the key bolt because smashed ankles trumps glazed sheath.....unless you're stoopid!

Therefore, your "easily available safer option" becomes the "easily available stoopid option" if used in the wrong situation. Unfortunately this means that, once again, it's not ok to just follow the rules. Instead, you have to make informed decisions......which means you have to be a little bit clever instead of just being able to read and recite the technical data!

>I'm not going to post more on this subject, I didn't mean to overanalyse
>or have the bedbugs coming out for air.

Don't worry, you didn't overanalyse it........totally the opposite, in fact
technogeekery
19/05/2010
6:52:43 PM
lol, carry on sunshine, you can play by yourself. One thing I HAVE learned is that arguing with a dickhead on the internet is about as big a waste of time as you can get.

toodlepip.

ajfclark
19/05/2010
7:37:18 PM
Or, in picture/caption form:

IdratherbeclimbingM9
19/05/2010
9:35:40 PM
Good thing I have plenty of these, and they are large enough to share, as it seems a couple could use some;... or is this some kind of internet courtship ritual happening or something?



Heh, heh, heh.
One Day Hero
20/05/2010
11:59:13 AM
On 19/05/2010 technogeekery wrote:
>lol, carry on sunshine, you can play by yourself. One thing I HAVE learned
>is that arguing with a dickhead on the internet is about as big a waste
>of time as you can get.
>
>toodlepip.

Dickhead!
egosan
20/05/2010
12:13:49 PM
You are still my kind of dickhead, ODH. Silly technogeekery should spend more time thinking out his points and less time making ad hominems.

I want to know what toodlepip means.

Superstu
20/05/2010
12:32:10 PM
On 20/05/2010 egosan wrote:
>I want to know what toodlepip means.

Its one of those designer puppy breeds - a cross between a poodle, a terrier, and an annoying pipsqueak.

wallwombat
20/05/2010
12:33:13 PM
On 20/05/2010 egosan wrote:

>I want to know what toodlepip means.

I believe it is French for " You Bastard. You made me look like a dick!"
f_ladou
20/05/2010
3:26:59 PM
On 19/05/2010 One Day Hero wrote:
> [...] The clusterfcuk shown in the photo is a problem which wouldn't have
>happened if the ropes were twin clipped.

Well, I doubt you could have twin-clipped that traverse.

The reason I alternated clipping ropes (wrongly I admit, thanks Peter Monks), was due to my stint on Wally's World a few weeks back with Alex. The first pitch includes a similarly long left-to-right traverse. I twin-clipped throughout the whole pitch and by the end, the rope drag was so bad, I could barely pull any slack with one hand.

I'm convinced it would have been much worse on Mild Peril.

Well, you can't be certain of anything these days, except perhaps that toodlepip is not French for much...

François
One Day Hero
20/05/2010
5:45:22 PM
On 20/05/2010 f_ladou wrote:
>The reason I alternated clipping ropes (wrongly I admit, thanks Peter
>Monks), was due to my stint on Wally's World a few weeks back with Alex.
>The first pitch includes a similarly long left-to-right traverse. I twin-clipped
>throughout the whole pitch and by the end, the rope drag was so bad, I
>could barely pull any slack with one hand.
>
should have got the second to take a photo, there's quite a few different things which can cause drag........you may well be correct for that case

>I'm convinced it would have been much worse on Mild Peril.
>
Nah.....short of tying knots, I don't think you could do any worse than what was in the photo

>Well, you can't be certain of anything these days, except perhaps that
>toodlepip is not French for much...
>
Found it in Roger's Thesaurus

Toodlepip: Greeting and farewell used by upperclass english homosexuals
Roughly translates to; Cheerio old chap. I do hope that next time we meet you'll allow me to bum you since I am, after all, a flaming queen

f_ladou
21/05/2010
11:58:56 AM
On 20/05/2010 One Day Hero wrote:
>Nah.....short of tying knots, I don't think you could do any worse than what was in the photo

Damn! Didn't think about that one.

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 55
There are 55 messages in this topic.

 

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