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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 1 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 72
Author
New toy at Sublime Point
mikl law
4/04/2009
8:03:39 AM
Like most of us with itchy trigger fingers, I had looked at the wall left of Sweet Dreams and finally bashed around in the scrub and got to the top with 150m of rope and 2 drills, just as Julian Anderson pulled over having just drilled the top 4 pitches. I drilled the bottom pitch and Ness, Julian and I did it last weekend. It's iintense, but only 19. or so. every pitch is quite diagonal and exposed, another classic I reckon.

Julian leading P3

Whymper 19 145m
Classic face climbing above a lot of worrying space. All bolts, take 11 brackets and a sling. Start left of a steep orange nose 30m left of Sweet Dream, or about 100m after the cable traverse.
1) 25m 18 head diagonally rightwards past Ubolts through roof and around arÍte, up corner to ledge and 2 U belay on right
2) 25m 18 Stainless glued carrots from now on, left and out to arÍte. DBB
3) 25m 19 Up right then out left to arÍte, up to small ledge and 3BB
4) 35m 19 up arÍte to cave, clip a U with a long sling and step right, up wall and roof, then diagonally R to 2U belay.
5) 35m 16 Right and up (ignore old dynabolts further right).
Julian Anderson, Ness Peterson, Mikl Law 29/3/2009


Olbert
4/04/2009
11:15:15 AM
So basically it follows an arete? Im thinking of going to do sweet dreams at some point So I will check this one out! Looks awesome from the photo-plenty of air!
climberman
4/04/2009
5:32:00 PM
Looks like insta-mega-classic material !

Thanks folks.

freesolo
4/04/2009
10:38:03 PM
why oh why are you aussies still using carrot bolts and hangers??? it's 2009 for f;;;ks sake!!
dfinnecy
5/04/2009
7:41:34 AM
carrot bolts are super.

Mikl, it amazes me how every few weeks you show up on Chockstone with yet another
major new line. I think you get in more new routes than I get in routes period. Thanks
for all the lines out there,

Macciza
5/04/2009
6:35:06 PM
On 4/04/2009 freesolo wrote:
>why oh why are you aussies still using carrot bolts and hangers???
It's an aussie tradition, and they work, nothing more is needed anyway , , ,
>it's 2009 for f;;;ks sake!!
I know we really should just freesolo but at least I'm trying to climb futuristically . . .
as in on traditional gear which is the modern way to climb . . .
Olbert
5/04/2009
10:53:05 PM
On 5/04/2009 dfinnecy wrote:
>Mikl, it amazes me how every few weeks you show up on Chockstone with
>yet another
>major new line. I think you get in more new routes than I get in routes
>period.

The first time I read it I could have sworn you said "I think you get in more new routes then I get periods".
dfinnecy
6/04/2009
7:23:50 AM
heh. that's not what i said.

(tho i suppose it is technically true. x > 0)
julian.A
6/04/2009
8:13:06 AM

If you don't want to take hangers that's fine.

I can give you directions to shipley or the glen.
madtaffy1
6/04/2009
8:51:39 AM
Anyone keen this Wednesday to climb this? Weather forecast is looking OKish.

Capt_mulch
6/04/2009
9:12:16 AM
I've got a day free over Easter.
sportmonkey1
6/04/2009
12:44:56 PM
As much as we appreciate these fabbo new routes being bolted for us. You do feel a sense of arrogence in the use of carrots instead of rings. I bet my nuts that if that route was harder and closer to the max grade these boys climb then it would have rings on it.
Its ok for the masses to fumble with bolt plates if they are near their max grade but the first ascent group. It kind of defeats the arguement that carrots are ok if they are not used on the harder routes.
widewetandslippery
6/04/2009
1:11:33 PM
On 6/04/2009 sportmonkey1 wrote:
>As much as we appreciate these fabbo new routes being bolted for us. You
>do feel a sense of arrogence in the use of carrots instead of rings. I
>bet my nuts that if that route was harder and closer to the max grade these
>boys climb then it would have rings on it.
>Its ok for the masses to fumble with bolt plates if they are near their
>max grade but the first ascent group. It kind of defeats the arguement
>that carrots are ok if they are not used on the harder routes.

Firstly "user", people who put up new routes are under no obligation to keep you happy. Secondly the people mentioned put a lot more in to the general climbing community than most and to question there actions as self serving is in itself arrogant. And thirdly are you puting your dollars where your mouth is? Rings are bloody expensive and glue in ss machine bolts (what I imagine has been placed) are less but still expensive. If these fellas were arrogant they would not be bothered bolting a grade 19.

evanbb
6/04/2009
1:20:54 PM
On 6/04/2009 widewetandslippery wrote:
...not be bothered bolting a grade 19.


Hear hear. Also, great first post Sportmonkey1. Keep that attitude up and you'll fit right in.

What bolts did you use on the weekend when you were bolting your new route?
sportmonkey1
6/04/2009
1:39:50 PM
>Firstly "user", people who put up new routes are under no obligation to
>keep you happy. Secondly the people mentioned put a lot more in to the
>general climbing community than most and to question there actions as self
>serving is in itself arrogant.

So i take it that because they put a lot into the general climbing community that you can't ask questions or make comments about what they do! Correct me (i am sure you will spring to their defence but here goes) if i am wrong. So the use of carrots is based purely on a cost basis. So when bolting anything under a certain grade you save money by using carrots anything above a certain grade then you spring for the extra expense and place rings ? Have i got it?


>If these fellas were arrogant they would not be bothered bolting a grade 19.
Bolted with the, as you have suggested with cheaper carrot option. As i mentioned in my original post i did use the words appreciate and fabbo. I appreciate that they have "bothered" to bolt a 19. I have just questioned the method used.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6/04/2009
1:54:06 PM
On 6/04/2009 sportmonkey1 wrote:
>So the use of carrots is based purely on a cost basis. So when bolting
>anything under a certain grade you save money by using carrots anything
>above a certain grade then you spring for the extra expense and place rings
>? Have i got it?

Probably not(?) as this is the first time I have ever heard of the elitist(?) vs cost concept in respect to bolting.





Thanks for the 'New Toy' Mikl.


Capt_mulch wrote;
>I've got a day free over Easter.

No you haven't. Someone said you were going to be my belaybitchgoon-carrier!
:P

BundyBear
6/04/2009
2:14:21 PM
On 6/04/2009 sportmonkey1 wrote:
>As much as we appreciate these fabbo new routes being bolted for us. You
>do feel a sense of arrogence in the use of carrots instead of rings. I
>bet my nuts that if that route was harder and closer to the max grade these
>boys climb then it would have rings on it.
>Its ok for the masses to fumble with bolt plates if they are near their
>max grade but the first ascent group. It kind of defeats the arguement
>that carrots are ok if they are not used on the harder routes.

This one is another one from the same route author http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=route&route_id=13945. Its all rings so go 4 it...

evanbb
6/04/2009
2:19:23 PM
On 6/04/2009 BundyBear wrote:
>This one is another one from the same route author http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page
>id=10&action=route&route_id=13945. Its all rings so go 4 it...

Fark Bundy, that looks like fun. Where's Bellbird Wall? I know Mt Hay pretty well, I thought...

wombly
6/04/2009
2:19:27 PM
There's a technical reason why you don't bolt with carrots on steeper (and hence harder) routes - while they are generally fine for a downwards force, their pull out (perpendicular to the rock) strength isn't great. Even glue in machine bolts aren't that great for steeper routes as they will tend to fall out while the glue dries, while a U almost always wedges itself.

BundyBear
6/04/2009
2:25:23 PM
On 6/04/2009 evanbb wrote:
>On 6/04/2009 BundyBear wrote:
>>This one is another one from the same route author http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?pag
>
>>id=10&action=route&route_id=13945. Its all rings so go 4 it...
>
>Fark Bundy, that looks like fun. Where's Bellbird Wall? I know Mt Hay
>pretty well, I thought...

The access details are on climb.org.au

http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=area&area_id=1432


 Page 1 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 72
There are 72 messages in this topic.

 

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