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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 27
Author
Doing stupid things in the Grose (Darkside)

evanbb
23/12/2008
10:18:29 AM
On 22/12/2008 Dutch wrote:
>Hey Evan,I think you're right, now might be the time to take up sport climbing
>:)

Plans are already under way. That's why we're hiking out to Mt Geryon over Christmas. I hear the sport climbing there is superb.

dutch
23/12/2008
3:02:33 PM
I have some pink tights you can borrow ev. They'll turn you into a real sport climber!
mikl law
24/12/2008
12:20:07 PM
On 22/12/2008 DaveN wrote:
>We climbed the "Darkside" a few years back. it was a fun outing. See some
>pics of the gymnastics at -
>
>http://www.david-noble.net/climbing/2005/Walls_LO_Jan_05.html


Nce shots, it's a fun route. I drilled it on the lead, and when Ness did the second ascent at one point was finding it very sharp on her back (bolts and jugs), and smooth and overhung in front of her. The brilliant stroke of turning around took a minute or so to figure out.

Andrew_M
24/12/2008
7:04:26 PM
Good TR Evan. It's the kinda climb that totally bamboozles pure sport climbers. I did it with a mate who was comfortable on low 20s sport (cruised mirrorball just before) but he turned to water on that first pitch of Darkside. It took half the afternoon to coax him up the pitch, move by move....seconding.

A great low grade classic. Well spotted Mikl.
mikepatt
2/03/2009
10:32:07 AM
I went out to have a look at Darkside on Saturday and I realised that there aren't a lot of classic wide chimneys in the Bluies. Also, taking thecrag.com as a yardstick, Darkside doesn't get a lot of traffic. Perhaps because it's a grade 14 in grade 19 territory or simply because chimneys don't attract the punters. Anyway with a combination of bridging and backing up the first pitch isn't (IMHO) too difficult. I did, however, do a bit of damage to my back (despite turning round) and would suggest aspiring ascentionists wear more than just a cotton T shirt.
I found the second pitch slightly more worrying due to the rock quality and the steep moves up the corner but even those are well protected.
As to the overall grade it could be anywhere between 12 and 16, but it's certainly not a relaxing multipitch climb in the 'tradition' of Tom Thumb.
We also experience an extreme 'wind tunnel' effect which may have spooked me a bit leading pitch two. If anyone visits and there's a strong W or WSW wind blowing this will feel like an express train passing through the chimney. (Our rap ropes also got tangled on the second rap a the chockstone at the other side of the chimney to the rap point)

p.s. Thanks Mikl for fixing up the top rap point. Also the carrot on pitch three between the pinacle and the ring bolts looks very rusty..

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2/03/2009
11:31:18 AM
On 2/03/2009 mikepatt wrote:
>We also experience an extreme 'wind tunnel' effect which may have spooked
>me a bit leading pitch two. If anyone visits and there's a strong W or
>WSW wind blowing this will feel like an express train passing through the chimney.

I predict that in the future* when climbers are jaded with the sanitised experience that they will specifically seek out this climb during predicted gale force W-WSW winds, just for the raw unadulterated adventure ...
It will be in the same vein as seeking out specific slab climbs to do in the rain, and multipitch affairs to do without headtorches on moonless nights!

(*probably not all that far away ..., where did the last 40 years go?)
mikl law
2/03/2009
12:09:59 PM
Also, their are 2 anchors, rap on the downwind side of the pinnacle to reduce rope tangling

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 27
There are 27 messages in this topic.

 

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