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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 35
Author
Buffalo Oysters ~ feasting on passion.
gfdonc
17/01/2008
12:08:04 PM
On 17/01/2008 BA wrote:
>I remember an article in Thrutch many decades ago

I remember that article .. something about Joe Friend spilling a bunch of Vitamin C tablets on the dance floor and watching people run after them wasn't it?
deadpoint
17/01/2008
2:32:35 PM
Some new years eve Pines party goers may be embarrassed to find out the tabs they acquired were not entirely what they expected.
BA
18/01/2008
11:44:25 AM
On 17/01/2008 gfdonc wrote:

>I remember that article .. something about Joe Friend spilling a bunch
>of Vitamin C tablets on the dance floor and watching people run after them
>wasn't it?

That would be it ... it was back in the early Seventies wasn't it? I might even have a copy of that issue around somewhere, at the moment a lot of stuff has been put into "storage" and I don't know where it are.
gfdonc
18/01/2008
1:17:47 PM
Yeah, my copies of Thrutch got put into "storage" a while ago .. along with Mountain 66 and 67 ..

IdratherbeclimbingM9
18/01/2008
5:33:43 PM
Well. What a small world an oyster lives in.

I have just finished having an interesting phone call from one of the fellows who put the empty bolt hole into the upper pitch of our undisclosed* (*Other than on Chockstone), line.

It seems they have already freed the lower pitch at Gd 22 (up to, but not including the minor roof), back in 2003; and since one of that team no longer climbs regularly the other has linked up with another partner to finish off the upper pitch this coming February.
The irony* is that the new partner appears to be the fellow who was suggesting it as a "good line that would go", ie the bloke with whom I had the conversation with at the lookout!
(*Strange methinks that a prospective 1st acscentionist of a ‘started’ project would point out an unclimbed line to others?)

At any rate I have accepted the reasons for their delay in finishing their project and happily hand them back the line; ... ~ unless they leave it till next Buffalo season, heh, heh, heh!
;-)

I have been assured that they intend completing it with minimal bolts; … though I wasn't intending to put any in it, envisaging it instead as a hard aid line that would actually climb easier as an equally bold free line, for those with the ability; i.e. we put it up on aid, and others come along and free it later.

Chockstone has proved worthwhile as a mechanism to get the communication happening on this issue, so I consider this a ‘plus’ as well.
When I did the trip report I considered the issue that had been weighing on my mind since we discovered the bolt hole, about ‘writing up the proposed new line’; or keep my information to myself and only publish it when the deed had been fully done. I opted to publish it with minimal information to possibly flush original interested parties out if they are still around. This seemed reasonable to me rather than blatantly asking “We want to do this line, who else has a prior interest?”, lest we get spurious persons muddying the water too much for this old oyster to make sense of.
So; by telling it like it is; the original sleuth who deciphered my cut down published piccie of it deserves congratulations, as only someone intimate with the line would have recognised it.

Those are the breaks I guess.
It doesn't detract anything from the adventure we had on it.
… It is a bit scary that my next proposed line is actually harder! ~> just hoping some bugger hasn’t put bolt holes in it already also!!
:)

I have since spoken with my belayer about it and we wish the ‘original’ team all the best in their endeavour.

~ ~ ~

[Who said after reading some previous threads on this site lately that there was no chivalry amongst climbers?]
:P
hipster
19/01/2008
10:09:27 AM
Is this whole TR totally accurate, or have you used some creative licence for a good story?? Did YOU have a conversation with a climber at the lookout, because you've quoted me...I don't remember any poker face??
Adrian

IdratherbeclimbingM9
19/01/2008
7:21:10 PM
On 19/01/2008 hipster wrote:
>Is this whole TR totally accurate, or have you used some creative licence
>for a good story?? Did YOU have a conversation with a climber at the lookout,
>because you've quoted me...I don't remember any poker face??
>Adrian


???

Yes. I had a conversation with a climber at a lookout who was checking out his mates (?, at least some details of them known to him/you), over on Defender of The Faith. They were a group of 5 and two were filming the climbing pair while another hovered in the vicinity above.
I don't recall the name of whom I spoke to although he/you did mention it at the time. He/you reckoned the picture on page 146 in the new Buffalo Guide of an 'unknown climber' on Ariel was him/you, so I assume we meet again.
G'day again Adrian and well met!

I reckon the TR is accurate, at least from my perspective.
I have no reason to spin yarns as I have been around a while; intend being around a while yet; and am a relatively simple oyster who values his integrity; … besides anyone who identifies with the mantle of being an aid climber is relatively used to copping flack, so why let myself in unnecessarily for more?

Schwerd tells me that you are his new partner. The jigsaw pieces fit, ... so what is not accurate?
If you don’t recall my poker face then it worked very well, because I was considerably surprised when a total stranger pointed out to me a line that I/we have been considering for over a year now, and which was the sole reason we were at that lookout at that time, i.e. to eyeball it again prior to the upcoming attempt on it.
The fact I did not show that surprise (which you acknowledge), I will take as a compliment!

Good luck with your freeing of it in February and I look forward to your trip report of same!

:)

(Btw. If I repeat it, as an aid climb; I will still be adhering to my original vision of it and won't be clipping any bolts that you fellows may put in the upper pitch, as I want to confirm my belief that the upper pitch done in that fashion is M8 for aid grade).
Regards,
Rod.

beech_hippy
19/01/2008
8:10:16 PM
Good to see that you guys are playing poker nicely together. Thanks Rod, for the acknowledgment that this route has already been scoped and you have accepted that the "tourist" and myself were not dealing from the bottom of the deck. Safe climbing. JS.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
19/01/2008
8:26:03 PM
On 19/01/2008 beech_hippy wrote:
>Good to see that you guys are playing poker nicely together. Thanks Rod,
>for the acknowledgment that this route has already been scoped and you
>have accepted that the "tourist" and myself were not dealing from the bottom
>of the deck. Safe climbing. JS.

No worries beech_hippy, and welcome to Chockstone!
hipster
19/01/2008
8:51:38 PM
Hi there Rod,
Not me at the lookout then, my only visit there was on the day you were on Ozy and I chatted to Andrew. I'm sure we met briefly down at the Lake only, I was walking my son.I'm definately not in any photo in a guide book.Maybe someone else was eyeing it off...the mystery continues!! Regardless, in 2 weeks I hope to make an old mate squeal and squark when we finish it off, God knows I still owe him some suffering from my early years!!
See you down there..Adrian

IdratherbeclimbingM9
19/01/2008
9:04:09 PM
Yes indeed
>the mystery continues!!

... that individual is probably chuckling over the confusion.
If I had a better memory, or had got him to autograph my guidebook (which I joked about at the time), then the mystery of his ID would be solved!

:)













Post edit:
Regarding the intercostal thingy...
Specialist advice later confirmed that I managed to detach the rib from my sternum, otherwise known as a costochondral separation.
~> Surgeon won't guarantee any reconnection will last very long, so it is now an ongoing injury I shall carry...

climbau
21/01/2008
8:26:26 AM
Hi Adrian(a.k.a hipster),
That was me you were chatting to at the lookout. And yes you would have met Rod at the lake.
Good luck with the line.

Andrew

P.S. I'm normally pretty good with names, but for the life of me I cannot remeber the name of the fella Rod and I were talking to at "The Gorge Lookout". Let us just refer to him as "page 146" or "Mr Happy Pants" and hopefully he will pick up on this thread and help us solve the mystery.

Macciza
21/01/2008
11:27:45 AM
> Which reminds me, has anyone had a go at Nimbin Rocks??

From my time up there years ago I recall NR was regarded as sacred by the local koories . . .
I went up for a look, felt weird and didn't really climb anything . . .
May be worth checking current sensitivity on this issue .

The Trickster
21/01/2008
1:59:32 PM
On 21/01/2008 Macciza wrote:
>> Which reminds me, has anyone had a go at Nimbin Rocks??
>
>From my time up there years ago I recall NR was regarded as sacred by
>the local koories . . .
>I went up for a look, felt weird and didn't really climb anything . .
>.
>May be worth checking current sensitivity on this issue .

Yes, I have a mate who lives up there and he says that Nimbin Rocks are considered sacred to the local aboriginal community. I don't think it would be a good idea to climb there. It's a shame.


Miguel75
22/09/2012
1:35:21 PM
Another oldy but goldy... The TR; not M9:)

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 35
There are 35 messages in this topic.

 

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