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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 2 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 62
Author
The mouseys road trip- watch this space!!

mousey
5/03/2005
10:42:51 PM
who was it that said 'tomorrow i shall be with you in paradise'?
well tel....cya soon matey!!

cheesehead
6/03/2005
1:49:34 AM
It wasn't Jesus...

mousey
21/03/2005
1:20:35 PM
rightiiiooooo.....
quick recap-
sunday 6th- arrive late at night in christchurch

monday- meet terry at airport at 3:30am (his flight was delayed), drive out to the basin and hang out, head back into springfield at the recommendation of steve pollard to set up camp

tuesday- wake up and pack up shit, deciding that steve is quite silly, drive to cragieburn, run into timmy le and crew in the carpark, 1st day of bouldering!!! we spend the day at spittle, starting with submarine boulder. we all warm up on a cool little v2 on pockets, then i managed to down 2 v4's (one called torpedo, mega classic, one called something else??? its a big deadpoint from a 3 finger dish...it pretty good)
then wander around spittle with terry's new guide just checkin out easy stuff and learning how to mantle

wednesday- we wake up and realise that steve wasnt so silly after all, the keas have attacked camp!! too excited to care, we spend the day exploring another part of spittle hill. still doing pretty easy stuff
we've also manged to crack into the social scene at cragieburn- us 3, andy & emma & joe (UK), eivian and anne-marie (norwegian), martin (UK), lukash and jana.

thursday- banging a tent peg in I manage to hit my finger and the resulting blod blister was so painful i cut it to release the pressure- now i have a wicked finger tip that hurts like hell.
this morning we check out quantum field for the first time. i manage to flash the ultra classic lung arete (v3) and have a couple goes on the almost as classic lung dyno (v4) but i dont send. terry and rohan also try lung arete and do very well but unfortunately no send. also check out a way cool highball called ode to joy (v1) which i flash (thank god) and scope out the stellar highball traverse line to the right, Biohazard (v7), ive gotta have a go at that before we leave!!!
on the way down we stop at tricky boulder in spittle hill and i have a few burns on tricky (and awesome, burly v6) and manage to stab my dodgy finger pretty nastily on a deapoint to a sidepull at the start, ouchies!
this afternoon we get back to camp and 2 girls from colorado, jenn and courtney, have managed to break down in the campsite carpark...how unfortunate :P well i do what any good gentleman would do and i offer them use of our crash pads and a lift to/from the crags every day...

friday- we head up to quantum with the yank chicks and british martin to explore some more. we just chill out near lung boulder trying heaps of wicked stuff fro m v2 to v5. also meet james, a sydney guy, and have a boulder with him as well. then later in the afternoon we head over to the hard end of quantum and scope out possible projects ('energy follows thought' was my final decision, though im not sure how im going to manage the 3 grade jump i the next three weeks)
i also manage to get up the unrepeatable, my first v6 of the trip.
we all then head down to quantum and meet a cool german couple (the guy is udo, a film maker, and he is f'in hilarious)- we all work on tuppi master (7) together as the golden rays of sunset reach across the end of another day in paradise.

saturday- supposedly my rest day, we meet up with gary (a local that alister got us in contact with) and the whole cragieburn crew heads up to flock hill. the walk in is a killer but the rock is far more featured than that of the more popular fields. i dont climb much today but in lapses of selfdiscipline i punish my tips on a couple v3/4ish things, and do a pretty nice new problem (havent thought of a name yet, its about v3)
eivian also got a really cool arete that was about v8/9 and started worked on another really hard new problem. everyone took heaps of photos as well.
apart from the better featured rock, one of the reasons i love flock hill is that there is no guide or grades etc. you just wander around and climb for the sake of climbing rather than for the pursuit of tickage. its almost cleansing after the bullshit that flies around between some of the punters at the boulder field (mostly yank blokes and locals btw)
the only dampner on the day that jenn, who i had been trying hard to hook up with, told me she had a 'boytoy' back in the states. i also found out that she was 25. this new information did little to deter me however...

mousey
21/03/2005
1:20:54 PM
sunday- rest day, head into christchrch. dick around in shops wasting time. get lots of food at pak'n save. get fantastic kebabs for dinner on the way back to cragiburn.

monday- pretty surewe went climbing, but i cant remember where. actually forgive for mistakes me the days that ive listed next to the reports are only guesses- the labels of time blenmd into one another and more often than not we have no idea what day or time it is.
we are waking up, playing hacky sack and brewing coffee, it must be early afternoon by the time we head out to the crag (5 minutes away) but we still probably get a solid 6 or 7 hours of climbing before the setting sun (and the rumbling in our bellies) call us back to the car.

tuesday, wedneday, thursday, friday- i think we had a rest day in here, im wquite sure of it actually, we also had our first shower of the trip, the yanky girls finally got there car fixed and buggered off without even a good bye (gawd i was heartbroken :P)
we also climbed a shiteload, exploring quantum and spittle mainly, ive now got a few projects that im working on. terry got his arse up a V4 called Cepasa in spittle (just near beautiful edges)- bloody nice work!! he;s improved more than any of us on this trip.
also having awesome social nights in the hut at cragieburn- some shits stole my beer from the river so eivian's been shouting me some top shelf brew of his- nice fella!

saturday- lukash and jana leave :(
we meet up with some yanks and gary and go to spittle for the day, i dont climb much as i feel crap and have dodgy knees, but terry almost get another 4!
took more photos as well.

sunday- head up to dry valley with the norweigans and muck around. i brush a new problem but dont send, ill be back! eivian also does a cool new problem that everyone has a burn on. we're pretty bummed on dry valley by this point so we trek up to flock hill proper and work on a few things for the afternoon. eivian and anne-marie are the only ones climbing seriously, we're all pretty tired. eivian manages to coax me onto some really cool hard thing though (its got a great pocket to start on then you pull up to an OK heel hook- deadpoint to a shit left hand sloper, lock off and crank on the heel, deadpoint again with your right to a complete piece of shit tiny crimpy slopy thing, rock over onto the heel* and pop again with your right up to a slightly better shallow 2 finger slopy dish, highstep with your left foot and do a massive lunge for a shit-but-better-than-all-the-other-holds dish with a small edge in it, then another deadpoint out right to the topout holds. aparently about v8/9?? but we weren't sure. *=where i got to :P) , and i spend an hour or so working the moves. i dont send by a long shot but ill be back

monday- eivian and anne-marie are leaving cragieburn today, im not sure how we're going to replace their hacky sack skills or their hilarious norwegian antics, but for the moment we're just gloating and having a rest day in christchurch. finally gaffa taped the kea holes closed in my tent. actually that was a couple days ago but i just remembered it then. also picked up an old royal robbins book for a few dollars in a second hand book store, and go some more film (id finally run out) and we got our 3rd can opener for the trip.

hexy- dont worry about uncle tel feeding me properly, he's turned out to be quite the campcook and ive somehow picked up the nickname 'hoover'.

well i better go- we have to stop by pack'n save and pick up some reggae mixes, gotta get back t othe fields so that we're ready t ogo when it stops raining.
that's all folks.

Nick Kaz
21/03/2005
1:36:21 PM
Fark Josh, sounds awesome! I have a feeling im going to look preaty weak when you get back to the bluies ;)

LittleMac
21/03/2005
2:24:56 PM
Sounds like an awesome trip, ceratinly a shitload better than sitting here in the office, I can only find one fault with the whole experience.

YOU LET THE GIRLS GET AWAY.

But hey we can't have everything, cool rock, cool mates and the nectar of the gods (beer) will have to suffice (at least until the next girls arrive). I must say though I applaud your determination to suceed, even after the "boytoy in the states" was announced.

Bravo keep up the good work.

alrob
21/03/2005
6:51:06 PM
great read josh! glad to hear ya having a great time!

mousey
24/03/2005
9:59:44 AM
>YOU LET THE GIRLS GET AWAY
believe me matey i tried everything!! :P

anyhow here's the next restday installment-
monday- on the way back to camp from christchurch we stop in at castle hill village and stumble upon julian a. & christian (ratman) et al., have a quick chat, then bugger off to make dinner.

tuesday- terry's smokes disappeared and he was fuming, me and rohan went to the homestead- startetd on a cool v5 on the back of nasal slip boulder. then we hit quantum where i worked a way cool highball figercrack called 'the day the world stood still'- almost getting it now!! rohan also worked on some unnamed v5 on pockets, i had a couple goes but it doesnt really inspire me to keep working. then we head down to spittle again and i work on tuppi master for a few minutes before it starts drizzling and we head off.
the norwegians have come back from a short lived surf trip with stories of epic flatness. the vibe lifts considerably and much alcohol is consumed.

wednesday- feeling somewhat seedy and sporting multiple injuries, i join terry and rohan and the norwegians on a romp up to the homestead again. we start off again on the back of nasal slip boulder, and terry gets his second v4- a nearby chuck of very cool kneebarring and crimping next to 'the letterbox'. anne-marie (norwegian chick) and i work on tuppi master for a few minutes before i officially declare that im f---ed- so with blooding spurting from multiple painful orifices (on my hands) i limp after everyone up to quantum. anne marie starts on 'the sorceres apprentice', a cool v6 that crosses and slaps out of the top of a big cauldron. i take pictures and feel sorry for myself.
then i wander around a bit to find eivand (norwegian dude) on 'symptoms of slow twitch motion'- he has a fair few burns and gets VERY close but doesnt quite manage to latch the glory hold. nearby terry romps up 'henry moor' , a cool 1 on pockets, in all his hardcore matless, spotterless, coolness style. i find some cool japanese guys on 'energy follows thought' and take a few pics. as they wander off, eivand starts up on something hard (snake eyes we think) and after a few burns moves onto 'energy follows thought'. it takes a while but he latches the glory slopes right on top, no more hard climb, done, finished, complete- but it has been raining lightly and he comes off the glory holds!!!!!!!!! ach nein!
terry and myself do a cool flake mantle thing called 'topheavy' (v3) and then im doing some work on a poweful v5 next to it when the heavens open up. in a mad dash we make for the car, the campsite, and the beer.

thursday- restday (today)- im f---ed, terrys ugly, rohans nowhere to be seen. the norwegians are leaving tomorrow for hulk hogan- we were thinking of going for a couploe days but decide that castle hill has too much to offer.
over 'n out.

LittleMac
24/03/2005
11:50:08 AM
On 24/03/2005 JCP wrote:
>>YOU LET THE GIRLS GET AWAY
>believe me matey i tried everything!! :P

Know the feeling well. Oh well always next time. You could borrow a few of Hexy's theraputic #11 Hex's to weigh em down with (see havachatwithhexy). Trip sounds awesome can't wait to get over there myself.

Cheers.

oweng
24/03/2005
12:40:41 PM
The Hulk Hogan area is worth checking out, but the best climbing there is at Elephant rocks, which is just a smaller scale version of Quantum Field. The only reason you would leave Castle Hill for Elephant Rocks was if the weather was dodgy (I recon anyway).

mousey
25/03/2005
11:06:11 AM
well, the weather IS dodgy, but im not leaving the basin until ive ticked tuppi master!!!
i could be here for a very long time......

alrob
25/03/2005
11:12:33 AM
where are ya getting stuck josh? i remember the start being very burly, but the key was a right heel hook, and to have your foot pointing the right way. i also went into the scoop on the right edge stacking 3 fingers, which felt heap more solid then the sharp edge of the arete. keep the right heel on, just bump it up, and there were 3 seperate holds, including the start hold, for my left hand, before hitting the arete. the last hold was a blunt corner which i pinched from memory.

but you'll tick it before you get around to reading this, i'm sure

EDIT: just saw you were still online, oops

mousey
25/03/2005
11:20:12 AM
well i havent ticked it yet, surprisingly enough
i start with my left foot those little edges right near the ground, then pull up the right heel straight away and slap up right into a really good dimple on the arete, then pop left hand across further left on the undercling and get the left foot up onto the bigger edge, pop right hand up again and move the heel up before going for the left arete- once ive got that its all chips 'n gravy...well hoepfully it'll go in the next couple days

alrob
25/03/2005
11:23:04 AM
sounds like how i did it. have you tried tricky again? its awesome, definately try it agin!

mousey
25/03/2005
11:25:03 AM
nah i havent been on it again yet, but its definately on my list of must-send problems!!!

mousey
29/03/2005
9:50:40 AM
well then, where was i....
ahhh yes- friday!
friday- started out at the back of nasal slip boulder where myself, rohan and canadian chris (a new fella we hooked up with in cragieburn) both sent 'the element' (v5). me and chris both then flashed a fantastic nearby v5 arete (unnamed). the both of us continued our sending spree with flashes of 'cyclops slab', a very (VERY- it has a route grade, fortunaely only 16 :P) highball slab. the downclimb was a bit of an epic!!!
then we sauntered up to quantum and i worked 'the day the world stood still' while the other guys wandered around. got some new beta on TDTWSS that i think will work...

saturday- rained all day. woolongong boys turned up at cragieburn.

sunday- rained all day. also snowed up in the surrounding hills.

monday- guess what? nope it didnt, it was beautiful!!! the ticklist went something like this; smiley (v3) flash, some unamed slopey arete (v2) flash, learning curves (v5) second shot, vlad the impaler (v2) flash, lounge lizard (V0-XXX) flash, the fin (v2) third shot- the grades here are funny, some funky unamed layback fingercrack (v3) flash, some othger unnamed overhanging crack thing to wicked mantle (v3) flash.worked 'the day the world stood still' again and wrecked fingers in the unforgiving crux finger locks but im getting ever closer!
tomorrow im gonna save myself in the morning and put everything ive got into a late arvo send of tuppi master (v7)- i reckon it should go!

tuesday- f---en raining!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! got up and had a shower in springfield and had a mushroom/steak pie at the cafe- the chick serving there is very hot. she served me a double scoop of cookies and cream yesterday. i think she would be a fantastic rest day activity partner....

mousey
30/03/2005
12:08:56 PM
emergency update- spent the rest of tuesday in the cafe chatting to various people and eating, crashed early
wedesday- still raining, lots of snow on the mountains surrounding the fields. very bummed. keas also ripped even more massive holes in my tent which is ok because now ive moved into the boot of the car. spending the day doing laundry & looking for reading material....at least if we get a good day we'll all be fresh and strong to send our projects....


rodw
4/04/2005
2:59:42 PM
Just recieved this from Josh and as requested pasing it on, was going to edit it but thought the raw message said more....

imintheairport-on-a-shitty-pay-computer-that-doesnt-have-a-space-bar....it-wont-let-me-log-onto-chockstone-so-can-you-please-post-an-update-for-me|?
just-say-that-terry-sent--LOAD-of-more-v3's&-v4's-and-i-manged-a-send-of-tuppi-master....be-back-in-a-couple-days-and-ill-post-the-proper-thing.
cheers-mate,,
Josh

mousey
4/04/2005
5:49:45 PM
thanks rod!
well we had to drop off the car at 12noon today butour flight doesnt leave until 5:50am tomorrow so we're stuck in the airport dickin around- at least i found a computer that lets me loginto chockstone and has a functioning space bar!!
so far me and terry have been playing hacky sack, poker, hunting the terminal for hotties, talkin to some cool irish dudes who are showing us card tricks that dont work and rollin spliffs in front of the security. we've also been taking bets on what antics rohan is up to now...he got bored of doing rows of cartwheels down the terminal until he fell over and has aparently gone off to flirt with cafe waitresses and boulder on the kiddy playsets upstairs. we're gonna set up camp here tonight, but im pretyt low on dosh and these internet things chomp down gold like candy. ill put in a full report for the last couple of days when i get home- only 1 minute 18 seconds left and im broke- and its gonna take a fair bit of typing to try attempt justice to the lastfew amazing days.
over and out,
JC

mousey
4/04/2005
7:36:48 PM
also check out www.udini.com
this is an awesome german guy (udo neumann) and his wife who we hung out with at the basin...theyre ubercool!! if you look in the gallery pics, under NZ and in part 3 (the latest NZupdate) you'll find photos of the norwegian guy eviand on tuppi master fromwhen we were working it and the last photo on the page (the one of cragieburn hut with the 10.5 fisheye) has me rohan and terry in the pic! yay we're famous!! see ya later all!!!!! love ya

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