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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
Arapiles - The Leftovers IV

adski
8/12/2004
9:06:57 PM
-= Prelude =-

To Victoria: JJ asked me where i intended on going, i said "all those little obscure crags that i'd never get to go with a bigger group. So off to Summerday we went.

-= Day 4: Nemesis confronted =-

After less than a dozen knee shattering Grampians walk-ins I ached for my teat, so back across the Wimmera we went. Ten years worth of trips to Araps and I finally found both me and a #5 cam up the Bluffs at the same time. This could only mean one thing - Scorpion. Linda's last climb at Araps this trip would waste her for days, my mission with her was accomplished as reinforcements were due the next day.

-= Day 6: Star Ticker =-

If you've got an eye for starred routes i could easily be considered Arapiles' worst climbing partner. My paper hit list is titled "Arapiles - the Leftovers IV", and consists of nothing but 1 star routes. Who comes to Araps to do the 1 star routes? I do. Repeatedly.

I admit to frequently subjecting my partners to the mediocrity of Creon, Blue Hawaii, Dirge, Hidden Secrets and Bastress. This has resulted in a sustainably mediocre sort of satisfaction, suitable for a mediocre sort of climber like myself.

-= Day 8: I've got the duty to take some booty =-

The only substitute for star-hunting is of course booty hunting, which is epitomised by the "Monday morning booty hunt". For those unfamiliar, this involves sweeping the Organ Pipe classics where incompetent seconders have left nuts, cams, or even WHOLE BELAYS in the rock for the eager to hunt down. Can you taste the booty? Sing the anthem with me:

"It's booty time, booty time, across the USA!"

I suffered the ultimate retribution earlier when I had put the lovely Linda on for the crux pitch of 'Last Rites', 120m 19 at Rosea. Because she led the pitch (and very capably, i might add), she scored the mega-booty of the trip: two nuts, one hex, new draw, biner, screwgate PLUS webolette. A very impressive lead by her, but hardly acknowledged in post-booty bliss. In comparison, Kim's score of a BRAND NEW #3 cam at Araps hardly rates a mention.

-= Day 10: We get a taste for top-roping =-

So impressed was I with the possibilities of using this new booty webolette that I sorted out a new challenge for the 'have-ticked' at Araps: the death-lead top rope challenge. This involves scouring the guidebook for the highest star-per runout rating and linking up these unlikely-to-be-climbed-in-good-style routes into an afternoon's top roping.

If the guidebook had been digital I could've just typed in "Mark Moorhead 21+" and our list would've been sorted, but things being as they are it took a pleasurable half hour and two cans of bundy to narrow down the list.

First up was Die Loaded **24, which even though it is far from a death lead, I would never have the audacity to launch up it onsight therefore had nothing to lose by toproping the frig out of it. And everything to gain in the form of obscure skills for smooth flaring hard cracks. Next time I'm stuck in an elevator and need to prise open the doors with my bare hands I'll be well equipped.

-= Day 11: this top-roping thing could take off =-

The next rainy morning was the perfect excuse for more noncomittal top roping, but we first dropped back 5 grades and struggled with a warm-up lead of Fang (18). Oh my god. In pouring rain and my forearms are on fire. I set up a belay metres above the crux, which is metres above the ground and tens of metres from the top. This ensured I had a clear view between my legs of Andy's fistiwork. He quickly dispensed of my dry crack and made his way towards the wet groove above. His turn on top and in between the golden showers came the call: "I'm SAFE". I responded: "I'm DRY!". "F#CK YOU" was his reponse and I knew it was my turn. We dropped our ropes over Strolling **23, a Mark Moorhead face climb which should be standard fare for furniture movers, with all the fridge lifting moves we found. Even so, it seemed to go with less struggle than Fang.

-= Day 12:

After many many climbs these last few days I figure there's no need for warmups so we start out top roping "Cellular Destruction" (23). 'A considerably tougher prospect to lead'. 'a demoralising experience' says the guide. Too true. After blowing out my guns on the actual climb, I blow out my triceps trying to mantle the finish, half a dozen attempts on this and I'm ready for some *real* top roping, yeah!

Off to Curtain Wall and we trash ourselves completely. Andy gets MooreHeaded just abseiling down to his route, he gives it half an attempt and it's my turn. I flick the rope onto another line and completed my crusade to understand the phrase "second required assistance". "If you don't mind, can you take up slightly faster than I climb?"

It's a good thing that with straight Victorian roads there's no demanding corners, as my arms are gone on the drive home. I plotted a direct line from Nati to the Green Olive in Bendigo. Alas, my favourite waitress was not there and we're served by someone more mediocre.

There's always next time.

Hawkman
8/12/2004
9:26:00 PM
nice one adski.

klareralt
9/12/2004
2:47:55 AM
I'm looking at my right hand, as the fingers glide deftly over the keyboard. Fang has left an indelible impression, it seems. Two deep purple marks just behin the right index finger knuckle, from where I had good friction on my inventive fist jam. The jam was bomber, but so seem the scars....

I would write more on such an excellent trip report, but I need to convince my 63 year old father our house needs a campus board.

Andy

richard
9/12/2004
6:19:02 AM
>My paper hit list is titled "Arapiles - the Leftovers
>IV", and consists of nothing but 1 star routes. Who comes to Araps to do
>the 1 star routes? I do. Repeatedly.
>
>I admit to frequently subjecting my partners to the mediocrity of Creon,
>Blue Hawaii, Dirge, Hidden Secrets and Bastress. This has resulted in a
>sustainably mediocre sort of satisfaction, suitable for a mediocre sort
>of climber like myself.

Some of the one star routes at Araps are great, some of the 3 star routes can be pretty ordinary. Araps has some such nice climbs, that even the no-star routes (which made the cut into the selected guide) can be worth doing. I used to chase stars - but you can miss some nice climbs doing this. I really liked Dirge - where as the Bard I reckon is way over rated - if every one if those pitches was at ground level, it would get no stars - it seems like it is only the location of the climb on a large buttress which gives it the stars. Dracula isn't that great - the bishop is much better. - IMHO

Cheers

jezz
9/12/2004
8:23:13 AM
richard, we all know how MUCH you love the Bard...........

nmonteith
9/12/2004
8:52:39 AM
Classic report - really unique style!

neats
9/12/2004
9:26:21 AM
I like it!!

Richard, do you have a trip report for us of your trip so far??!!

PN
9/12/2004
10:05:44 AM
I like your style, kid

manacubus
9/12/2004
10:50:27 AM
Catchy style, I don't even minimise my web browser as my boss walks in to the cubicle.

FatBoy
9/12/2004
4:29:07 PM
Good report:

BTW: There's a really easy way to do the "mantle" on Cellular Destruction (and it's not a mantle, either), but it is a visciously guarded secret and I shall never tell ...
BoaredOfTheRings
10/12/2004
12:12:59 AM
On 9/12/2004 FatBoy wrote:

>BTW: There's a really easy way to do the "mantle" on Cellular Destruction
>(and it's not a mantle, either), but it is a visciously guarded secret
>and I shall never tell ...

I dont think it's a secret really, I think it's called using your brain and realising there's a finger lock there!

FatBoy
29/12/2004
2:50:03 PM
On 10/12/2004 BoaredOfTheRings wrote:
>I dont think it's a secret really, I think it' called using your brain
>and realising there's a finger lock there!
Shhhhhhhh !!!

There are 12 messages in this topic.

 

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