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5:59:23 PM |
. ....................................................RESPECT  http://www.chockstone.org/Interviews/LShepherd.htm '...Kim Carrigan was definitely the biggest influence no doubt because it was early on. He and I got together after I'd been climbing only maybe less than a year. I first met him at Arapiles and then I went up to Mt Buffalo. I remember he was at Buffalo climbing this big corner and bridging. It was maybe grade 20 or something. And he wasn't wearing any undies! [laughs]... This is before we got together. Anyway, he was definitely a very powerful influence in my life. When I first got into climbing he was already starting to free Procol Harum (26) and things like that. He was very bohemian. He had this afro, that was like out here [gestures]. It was really quite stunning. After we got together he chopped it off short. But I remember this big afro and this little circle of admirers. [laughs]. ...' '...he actually encouraged me to climb with other women. We were about the same age, but he started climbing five years beforehand. When we first went to Yosemite Valley, he'd been there before, and he said "well don't expect me to climb with you, you'll need to find your own climbing partners. I'm climbing much better and I'm going to be doing this, this and this...". And I was a bit crestfallen, but then he did encourage me to find my own climbing partners and climb with other women. I met Evelyn Lees on that trip and we did lots and lots of climbing together. That's when my climbing really took off...' http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1034163&msg=1036269#msg1036269 '...Louise Shepard. An astonishing climber who, despite easily leading 5.11 & harder , was unknown outside those she climbed with. I remember watching her climb in Yos around 1980. She was similar to Hill in that she climbed methodically & like a dancer. And Louise didn't just climb with Carrigan - I remember clearly her climbing with ( also unknown but who climbed at a high standard )Canadian Jean Macrae as well as other women....' ...................................................RESPECT |
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7:35:19 PM |
On 4/03/2017 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote: >Kim Carrigan, in particular, >made huge inroads with his free ascents of climbs like Procul Harum. I'm a bit of a Procul denier. Seriously, once you have the thing wired (like Kim did), it's only fuchin' 24! No harder than Karma Sutra. And before anyone starts crapping on about 'Kim's vision', Barber had a shot at freeing it, told the locals it would go. Wasn't even Carrigan's idea......why'd it take 3 years to get the job done? |
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7:49:07 PM |
hey sad n angry ...ul have to talk to davej about that quote .. .I led-flashed-onsighted Bam Bam (20) the other day and it felt like 17 ...Moorhead graded Cobwebs 26 and for him maybe it was .... Kim did a quick n easy repeat of Cobwebs and that was one of the reasons he graded India 29 ... |
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7:52:58 PM |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bY3rtq5gJzM 24 ??? HB makes it look about 18 ... |
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7:56:24 PM |
>>>once you have the thing wired .... yeah ..that's called ' muscle-memory '...itsa beautiful thing ... ..you build particular muscles for particular moves on particular climbs...and the route becomes ridiculously easy ... https://www.muscleforlife.com/muscle-memory/ http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=126050 >>>the routes pretty much a doddle once you know that ... there ya go Damo .... go combine perma-chalk-tick-marks...muscle memory....beta...........an ul be up Punks in a day ... good luck mate ... |
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8:16:18 PM |
>>>And before anyone starts crapping on .... ......................................................  http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=127385 >>>prompted by Barber’s prediction... pretty sure Kim knew it wasn't Kim's idea or vision .... ...this threadz getting right under ur skin , old son ... : D |
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9:41:09 PM |
Don't shoot the messenger, dude. I'm just stating the bleeding obvious. Karma Sutra climbed in the style of its ffa is objectively harder and more impressive than Procul Harum climbed in the style of its ffa. It seems to me that every farking area in the world which had a full-time scene suddenly exploded in the late 70s to early 80s. The idea to ditch long walls and focus on short hard pitches, the acceptance of hard-out dogging, fires + rps + cams, boom. Every freaking country saw a rapid rise from low to high twenties, at more or less the same time. Do you really think the same shit wouldn't have been done by someone else, sooner rather than later? |
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1:48:10 PM |
. ...very good ..... thats the whole point of the thread ...the book.... THE MAN .... ...Kim Carrigan IS that ' ...someone...' $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ |
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2:25:17 PM |
>>>Karma Sutra climbed in the style of its ffa is objectively harder and more impressive than Procul Harum climbed in the style of its ffa. ...apples and oranges... >>>fires most of the hard climbing '..to high twenties ...' would have been using EBs... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Climbing_shoe >>>rps http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/the-guy-whose-nuts-revolutionized-climbing-r-p >>>cams '...Initially the first bit of gear I made was a halfsize friend which wasn’t available commercially. I can’t remember exactly what inspired me to make one but I think maybe just talking about one around the campfire… “Wouldn’t it be great to have a friend that would fit into finger cracks?”. And I thought, it must be possible, so I made one. That was sometime in late ‘81, I think......... Kim Carrigan offered to buy it off me for quite a large sum of money. [laughs]....' http://www.chockstone.org/Interviews/MMatheson.htm >>>..every farking area in the world which had a full-time scene ... ...and Kim was involved with all of them ... |
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4:24:36 PM |
...........................THE ETERNAL PSYCHIC BLACK HOLE of WORLD ROCK CLIMBING... davej reflected on SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS @ 2016 : >>>the ring route was in a totally different league ...(harder than punks in my opinion). If kim had managed to get up that when he nearly did that would have been an internationally significant ascent.... |
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4:44:46 PM |
. . ...anyway ......ina gotta go to the rat race 4 a while ....seeya ... . ................................................................  . . . |
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10:33:30 PM |
On 5/03/2017 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote: >the ring route was in a totally different league ...(harder than punks >in my opinion). If kim had managed to get up that when he nearly did that >would have been an internationally significant ascent.... Yeah, but he didn't. The reality is that Carrigan was onsighting and soloing about the same as everyone else in the Araps scene at the time. What set him apart was that he was dogging a couple of grades harder, 29, maybe 30, depending on who's grades you take. Less than 10 years after he retired, dogging grade 30 had become no big deal. Fark, Steve Bullen smashed out the Ring Route like it was just any old thing at Thompsons. Carrigan (at his best) would not have been a standout climber in the Nowra scene in the 90's. He was among the best of his generation, they were better than the generation before, the generation after was better again. Why the fuch are you so fixated on one dude? |
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4:07:47 PM |
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4:37:45 PM |
...there ya go Damo ....AND EVERYONE ELSE who cant see beyond the ' colour ' of the generation X ... good 'ol daze ... On 5/03/2017 One Day Hero wrote: >Yeah, but he didn't. YEAH BUT HE DID ...sort of ......he fell off the slab at the top in the rain... so he'd already climbed above the crux ... so didnt clip the anchors BUT WAS CLIMBING GRADE 31+....which was equal to and maybe harder than anything Wolfy etal were doing at the time ......... >The reality is that Carrigan was onsighting and soloing >about the same as everyone else in the Araps scene at the time. AND ? ... >What sethim apart was that he was dogging a couple of grades harder HELLO !!!!!!!!!!!!!...best climber in Australia ....one of THE best in the world...and doing 1000 foot mega-classic-trad routes on Frenchmans just to show he wasnt a total dogging-production-line-dark-force that Claw portrays Kim as .......ahem ...... >Less than 10 years after he retired, dogging grade 30 had become no big >deal. Fark, Steve Bullen smashed out the Ring Route like it was just any >old thing at Thompsons. Carrigan (at his best) would not have been a standout >climber in the Nowra scene in the 90's. JerryM started on Punks in the arvo and finished it the next day ... so what ....r u implying that Wolfy was a bumbly for taking 6 days ? ... >He was among the best of his generation, VERY GOOD...AND WE'RE TALKIN WORLD WIDE HERE ... >they were better than the generation before, NO THEY WEREN'T ....apples and oranges...DONT U DISS EWBANK & CO >the generation after was better again. NO THEY WEREN'T....the crags of the 90s were just outdoor climbing gyms... >Why the fuch are you so fixated on one dude? well clearly YOU ARE NOW ... : D ... |
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5:14:17 PM |
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o86TpaSBcWw ."...the next generation had arrived ...it was us ...GET OUT OF THE FKN WAY ....HERE WE ARE !!!!..."  Another myth to bust ?...Mark Moorhead reckoned Kevin ' Flange Desire ' Lindorf (right) would of been the best climber in Australia , had he ' gone full time ' ... http://www.chockstone.org/Interviews/KLindorff.htm '...One day Keith (Noddy) Lockwood went down to a rock shelf to have a dump, misjudged the size of the swell and was washed into the water with his pants around his ankles. The current ripping past the pyramid was very strong - I remember spotting him being swept off in the general direction of French Polynesia. Fortunately, though most of our gear had been sealed in drums in preparation for our impending departure, we had a rope in an unsealed drum. We were able to feed it out as Kim Carrigan swam out to Noddy, then we were able to drag them both in....' . |
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6:28:40 PM |
. ...relaxing in the green room ...Pines...Arapiles...where else... ...Mark ...KC...DaveF... 
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11:00:18 PM |
On 6/03/2017 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote: >YEAH BUT HE DID ...sort of What, are we handing out trophies for trying hard now? You either climb the route or you don't, no one gives a fuch what you almost climbed. >JerryM started on Punks in the arvo and finished it the next day ... so >what ....r u implying that Wolfy was a bumbly for taking 6 days ? ... Sounds like Jerry made Wolfgang his bitch that day. > >NO THEY WEREN'T ....apples and oranges...DONT U DISS EWBANK & CO Well now we're getting somewhere, apples and oranges. Did Carrigan actually climb 30? I mean anything which has stayed 30? Cause it looks to me like all those Brits and Germans and Frenchies were smashing out 8c around the time Kim quit (or just a little later). You really going to sit there and claim that someone can be three or four grades below top standard, and still be "among the best climbers in the world"? Fark off! |
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12:53:33 PM |
...love the emotion your generating for the book ....keep clinging to ur predugices ...clichés...stereotypes...and ur own good ol daze... : D |
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1:33:43 PM |
On 8/03/2017 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote: >...love the emotion your generating for the book .... Ay odius (an AndyP), U do realise that this shred IS tha book doncha? Itz tha intRactiv kind an ur all participantz in fleshin out tha theme. Ima sure liz is grateful for tha colour an incitefuness that Uve bought 2 iz extravaganza. Don'ta mind me liz, carry on tha current chapta as ima lookin fwd 2 tha seqel wen this 1 iz finishD. |
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1:55:23 PM |
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| There are 430 messages in this topic. |
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