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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 5 of 22. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 220 | 221 to 240 | 241 to 260 | 261 to 280 | 281 to 300 | 301 to 320 | 321 to 340 | 341 to 360 | 361 to 380 | 381 to 400 | 401 to 420 | 421 to 430
Author
Kim Carrigan BOOK
ima.seriousyoungliza
1-Nov-2015
3:28:46 PM
...AND IT ALL BEGAN HERE ...

ibid :

'...Carrigan started climbing in the Blue Mountains, near Sydney, at age fourteen. His school group instructors had trouble with him though, because, as he put it, “I was actually keen to go climbing.” He and his friends were ostracized from the group because of their relentless enthusiasm, and the instructors often wrote letters home to their parents urging them to stop the boys from climbing !...'


Well actually , according to Claw's book , it all began when Kim got a good look at Claw's ' climbing porn ' , one day , up the back of the class room at Sydney Grammar ...



ima.seriousyoungliza
1-Nov-2015
4:27:27 PM
Kim will be doing a lot of myth-busting when he writes the first chapter , covering the period from Sydney Grammar to the 2nd ascent of the Totem Pole , with Ian Lewis , in 1974

...much to the chagrin of Claw and the delight of others , no doubt ...

; )

The period 1975 to 1985 with be from published material compiled by Java Trumpet and Claw ...with heaps of input from many in this mob :

http://osp.com.au/?p=1294

And our friend ' hero ' might be a shoe-in for ' paparartzi consultant ' in relation to those years ...if he is the SCREAMER connection ...

Kim will write the final chapter ...NOW GET THIS STRAIGHT ...Kim has travelled a path of lows and highs since 1985 to now become a successfull business man in the heath food industry .... some of that path is on the public record ... some is not ....

This final chapter will not be about that path ...

It will be about Kim's thoughts and views and insights into Aus & world climbing from 1986 to 2015 ...

Kim's recent piece in Simey Carters book clearly shows that Kim can write grade 35 litterature ...and is tuning into whats been going on around the world ...

Im thinkin stuff like :

El Cap & the Huber Bros & Lee Cossey & the recent Dawn Wall

Wolfie's pioneering hard free climbing in very thin air on Trango Tower
http://www.climbing.com/news/huber-brothers-free-climb-trango-tower/

Free ascent of the Japanese Diect on the Eiger
http://www.mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=3948

David Lama free climbing the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZS1BxPErhB4

The evolution of climbing gear beyond RPs and Malcolms mini cams

The cultural and physical effects of sport climbing in australia

The rise of HB in the 1990s which almost did ( BUT NEVER COULD ) fill the void (in Australia ) left by Kim ...


and a million other things that Kim may or may not have considered since .....

THE CARRIGAN YEARS

- 1975 to 1985 -

from Henry Barber to Wolfgang Gullich

RRP ; $ 49.95


################################################








ima.seriousyoungliza
1-Nov-2015
4:55:12 PM
AND HERE'S A COUPLE OF PUNTERS ON SUPERTOPO LOOKING FORWARD TO THE BOOK :

#####################################

Michael Hjorth

Trad climber

Copenhagen, Denmark

Sep 2, 2015 - 01:21pm PT

A book about Carrigan? I’ll buy a copy!

I had the good fortune of climbing a few routes with Kim Carrigan in Sweden in 1987. And he paved the way for a Mammut sponsorship for our Ama Dablam climb in 1988.

He had come to Copenhagen to do his brilliant and humorous slideshow from around the world. In the following weekend we went to “Danish home crag”, Kullaberg in Sweden, where he flashed two first ascent 11d’s. He didn’t bring any gear for the trip, and as I had shipped most of my gear to Greenland for a coming expedition, I only had some old crappy wires, solid stem friends and bulky carabiners left for him. He was repeatedly mumbling through clenched teeth: “How am I supposed to do this with such crap gear…!?”

Sunday we went further to Gothenburg / Utby where he quickly ticked off the harder tradlines. I especially remember him on Pripps, 5.12b, fiddling with my silly wires, but still having power in reserve to flirt with the very nice Norwegian girl climbing on Tuborg, 5.10c, just to his left, asking her to pose for a photo, he would include in his slideshow…!

Later I visited him in his home in Switzerland and got a tour around the Mammut Factory. In the production hall, he showed me a huge squarecut machine, apparently put on automatic, spewing out ready packed boxes. “This is our best profit product: cow tail hooks!” A Swiss law demanded farmers to hook the cow tail away from udders during milking, and Mammut had the exclusive right to produce these. No silly demands for new flashy colors, or expensive fall testing as with most of their other products...!

###############################


MMCC

climber

New Zealand

Aug 15, 2015 - 02:55am PT

Lord Kim Strike Me Down

Pretty sure that's a climb here in NZ somewhere.

He shouted at a friend of mine once too. Something like "go take pictures of your own f*#kin mates".

Still, we all have our bad days. I grew up with photos of him and Gullich in Mountain Magazine.
Awesome.


########################################

ima.seriousyoungliza
1-Nov-2015
5:41:08 PM
Climbing Magazine, #93, December 1985

'...Always outspoken, Kim has remained a controversial figure on the climbing scene. His remarks about Americans seem especially cutting, such as his “There should be more of these” remark about the Dead Americans route at Arapiles. I asked him why there was so much anti-American antagonism in Australia.

“We’re very much down on America for its imperialist politics,” he told me straightforwardly, “the way it criticizes Russia, and then acts just like Russia.”...'

FAR KIN ELL ... 30 years later ...

http://www.bbc.com/news/world-us-canada-34685183

: D


###########################

ima.seriousyoungliza
1-Nov-2015
5:59:31 PM



$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ 49.95 $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$



>Now that an EXPECTATION of such a fine book is percolating through the
>minds of many ppl ... it's time to get this project movin towards a beautiful
>finished product !!!


###########################




ima.seriousyoungliza
1-Nov-2015
6:06:57 PM
Before I go ... here's a nice little tit bit , written by Java , in relation to the 2nd ascent of the Pacific Ocean Wall in 1977.....the ascent that put Kim on the world stage ...and gave him a taste of the international limelight .... a taste he grew to love ... A LOT !!!

http://www.supertopo.com/inc/photo_zoom.php?dpid=Oj8_ODolICsjJg,,

Greg Child
climber
Apr 8, 2014 - 12:47am PT

'...Something I recall about Daryl that resonates with me, and which happened the day after that photo was taken... when we got to the base of the PO wall, The 4 of us ( [ Daryl ] Hatten, [ Eric ] Weinstein,Kim Carrigan and myself) were rather humbled by the looming project we'd set ourselves. Daryl took his piton hammer out from his holster and held it up like mighty Thor and banged it into a block of granite, and yelled "The PO team is here!" It got us moving. He was a driving force on that climb...'


#########################



Duang Daunk
8-Nov-2015
7:02:24 PM
On 1/11/2015 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>Kim will be doing a lot of myth-busting when he writes the first chapter
>, covering the period from Sydney Grammar to the 2nd ascent of the Totem
>Pole , with Ian Lewis , in 1974
>
>...much to the chagrin of Claw and the delight of others , no doubt ...
>
> ; )
>
>The period 1975 to 1985 with be from published material compiled by
>Java Trumpet and Claw ...with heaps of input from many in this mob :
>
>http://osp.com.au/?p=1294
>
>And our friend ' hero ' might be a shoe-in for ' paparartzi consultant
>' in relation to those years ...if he is the SCREAMER connection ...
>
>Kim will write the final chapter ...NOW GET THIS STRAIGHT ...Kim has travelled
> a path of lows and highs since 1985 to now become a successfull business
>man in the heath food industry .... some of that path is on the public
>record ... some is not ....
>
>This final chapter will not be about that path ...
>
>It will be about Kim's thoughts and views and insights into Aus & world
>climbing from 1986 to 2015 ...
>
>Kim's recent piece in Simey Carters book clearly shows that Kim can write
> grade 35 litterature ...and is tuning into whats been going on around
>the world ...
>
>Im thinkin stuff like :
>
>El Cap & the Huber Bros & Lee Cossey & the recent Dawn Wall
>
>Wolfie's pioneering hard free climbing in very thin air on Trango Tower
>http://www.climbing.com/news/huber-brothers-free-climb-trango-tower/
>
>Free ascent of the Japanese Diect on the Eiger
>http://www.mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=3948
>
>David Lama free climbing the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZS1BxPErhB4
>
>The evolution of climbing gear beyond RPs and Malcolms mini cams
>
>The cultural and physical effects of sport climbing in australia
>
>The rise of HB in the 1990s which almost did ( BUT NEVER COULD ) fill
>the void (in Australia ) left by Kim ...
>
>
>and a million other things that Kim may or may not have considered since
>.....
>
>THE CARRIGAN YEARS
>
>- 1975 to 1985 -
>
>from Henry Barber to Wolfgang Gullich
>
>RRP ; $ 49.95
>
>
>################################################
Ay serious bro, have you actually spoken to KC about this, or are you compiling it an hopefully getting it signed off by him?
ima.seriousyoungliza
18-Nov-2015
9:20:13 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7W6lFI5izAM



'...The title of the album refers to a name used by the band's drummer Darren Jessee and his friends on fake IDs as teenagers. The band was unaware of the existence of the real Reinhold Messner, the first man to climb Mount Everest solo, and the first to do so without the aid of bottled oxygen, until work on the album had already progressed. They were informed of his existence in 1999 during an interview with DJ Bruce Warren of WXPN radio. In the record's liner notes, Messner is thanked for his understanding and cooperation. He later contacted the band to let them know that he was highly pleased with the album...'


##########################################

ima.seriousyoungliza
10-Dec-2015
5:57:45 PM


MUSIC AND COUNT-DOWN AND WALKMANZ WERE A BIG PART OF THE CARRIGAN
YEARS .......I always thought Kim Carrigan looked quite a bit like these 3 from those years :


Mr Suave ...Bryan Ferry...Lead Singer with Roxy Music...




James Freud .... Bass Player with The Models...



and Phil Oakey ...Lead Singer with Human League ...







MisterGribble
10-Dec-2015
9:36:52 PM
Phil Oakey, Sheffields finest
An honorary Gribble
hero
11-Dec-2015
8:47:29 AM
There was a guy in the Human League? I never noticed.
gfdonc
11-Dec-2015
10:53:38 AM
Phil is a girl's name. Just like Cameron. And Eduardi.

Eduardo Slabofvic
11-Dec-2015
2:47:28 PM
On 10/12/2015 MisterGribble wrote:
>Phil Oakey, Sheffields finest
>An honorary Gribble

He doesn't look like a spoon

MisterGribble
11-Dec-2015
7:28:44 PM
"Run it out at the top of Auto-Da-Fe
Trash your digits at the crux of Yesterday
Crank Crank Crank up Surface to Air
Do all the things that make you scare"

Phil just couldn't work Valley of the Deformed Pork Salesman into one of those catchy electro pop tunes of the early 80's.

They were wild years. I weep for them .....
stugang
11-Dec-2015
10:39:52 PM
Going by that photo I'm surprised you thought there were chicks in human league.
Jayford4321
12-Dec-2015
5:33:06 PM
On 11/12/2015 gfdonc wrote:
>Phil is a girl's name. Just like Cameron. And Eduardi.
>

On 11/12/2015 Jayford4321 wrote:
>Going by that photo I'm surprised you thought there were chicks in human league.

I thought U were going to say that Eduardi was wrongfully being accused of being a bloke.
stugang
12-Dec-2015
10:14:46 PM
Nah I couldn't think of anything clever to say to lizard man other than something daft like Kim being a girls name.

But then hero said something about human league. So I decided to say something daft to him instead.

BTW Eduardi is the plural not feminine form of Eduardo. it's not well known because it is so rare for Eduardo's to be seen together at the same time as most are drowned at birth by their mothers.
Ima.seriousyoungliza
13-Dec-2015
2:57:07 PM

>>>Human League

You know I am no stranger ...
I know rules are a bore.
But just to keep you from danger,
I'm the law !!!

http://osp.com.au/?p=6467



Eduardo Slabofvic
13-Dec-2015
6:23:20 PM
On 12/12/2015 Jayford4321 wrote:
>
>BTW Eduardi is the plural not feminine form of Eduardo. it's not well
>known because it is so rare for Eduardo's to be seen together at the same
>time as most are drowned at birth by their mothers.

So by that logic, Muki must be the feminine of Mucky, which explains a lot
ima.seriousyoungliza
14-Dec-2015
4:20:44 PM
SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS -THE RING ROUTE-LORD OF THE RINGS (31)

The section below the slab that gave Kim SOOOOOOOO much angst ... nearly killed Robbie Philips ...

This from Vertical LIfe :

'...You had a bit of an ‘incident’ on Lord of the Rings (31) at Arapiles, can you tell us what happened?

Yeah, that was a bit of an exciting day! I had had an attempt and had fallen off at the crux. I pulled on and worked the moves to the top. Because I wanted to repeat the last section from bolt to chain, I just jumped off from the chain onto the last bolt, but when the rope went tight I heard a horrendous crack and I was falling even further. It’s amazing how much your mind can transmit in such a short time. I remember thinking: ‘Oh no…the ropes snapped…wait…that was a metal sound…the bolt must have snapped! I am falling a long way…there is a tree below me…I am going to break my back on this tree…damn it...

What actually happened was that the top ‘biner of the quickdraw attached to the bolt had snapped. I fell a long, long way and luckily Tracey (Hua) caught me just before landing on the tree (Thanks Tracey!). ‘Biners shouldn’t snap like that. My opinion is that it had somehow cross-loaded and the gate possibly opened against the rock, and the added pressure of my fall from two metres above the bolt caused too much strain for the ‘biner to take.

I got away with a sore wrist for about a week afterwards and bruised ribs that still ache even now, but it’s not serious. It could have been far worse than it was. It does make me think now that sometimes I take for granted: that sport climbing is just inherently safe when in fact there is still a lot of risk!...'


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There are 430 messages in this topic.

 

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