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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
TR (T)radical Testpieces: Grasshopper & Supercrack
PThomson
13-Jul-2017
6:29:25 AM
Good morning all,

I've put a TR on my blog about 3 radical trad testpieces I jumped on in the last week, if you're interested. Let me know what you think!

*Grasshopper (70m Trad 25)
*Bad Moon Rising (35m Trad 23)
*Supercrack (70m Trad 24)


(T)radical Testpieces in the Blueys



Be safe.

- Paul

widewetandslippery
13-Jul-2017
9:23:38 AM
good work, good write up
mikllaw
13-Jul-2017
8:03:54 PM
Supercrack looks good!

Bad Moon Rising has sandbag written all over it

I recall there was a good horizontal break just below the crux on Grasshoper I loaded with green camalots, placed one piece above it and didn't worry too much about gear till it eased off. I was puzzled at the description of huge flyers off the crux, the cams in the break are just below your feet. The bolted ledge was from the aid ascent I guess.
PThomson
13-Jul-2017
9:40:11 PM
Heya Mikl!

Yep. Just off the belay is a good break (about 1m left of the next section of crack) for Red and Green cams. There is another bit of gear (yellow cam) in a wet and muddy polished dish (about 30cm higher and more "on the line" than the previous gear) but it's "average".

When you're standing on this polished dish (after the first few moves of the crux) there is a bomber wire right in front of you, but you're fingers are in that finger-slot, and without pre-placing its very hard to place (you have to take your fingers out of the slot to place it). When Tom-o ticked it, he DID manage to place it, but... um... it's Tom-o. (In Simon's photos of you, I notice that *you* DIDN'T place it...) =)

Any way, from there you go into the "crux of the crux", at which point you move your feet above 1.5m above the polished dish (average gear), and about 1.8m above the bomber gear in the break you're talking about. You then do the main crux move (a bit of a lob to the finger jug and stonker gear) at which point my feet are about 2m above the average gear, and further above the good gear. So, throughout this section: from the polished dish (average gear) to the finger jug (stonker gear) is about 4m.

Not a big fall in itself by any means... buuuuut: considering the two-tiered ledgy slab you've just climbed on the lower section, any fall from those moves (even without a ludicrously tight belay) will definitely glance the slab. Or -as in my buddy's situation- caught it badly when he glanced the ledge itself during the fall.

Regards,

- Frothy
mikllaw
14-Jul-2017
6:22:51 AM
sounds much harder now!
PThomson
14-Jul-2017
9:19:51 AM
Maybe you were just crushing even HARDER back then than you realised, Mikl? =)

Seriously though, I'm not trying to say this route is in any way dangerous, because I don't believe that at all. I think that the crux is "exciting" (especially if you don't add pre-placed gear), but even without it, the fall is fine... But as we both know, a "totally fine" fall on trad, can still be intimidating.

It's also good to work this route ground up (especially now that I've re-dug-out the crux section), because even if you get sick of taking the fall, you can aid past it easily, get in the stonker wire, and work the moves... So, don't let me previous post put anyone off.

There are 6 messages in this topic.

 

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