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Funky Moonlight Buttress TR

Miguel75

7-Feb-2015
10:10:19 PM

Here's an interesting TR about soloing Moonlight Buttress. His 3 daisy, no rope, technique sounds quick though sketchy...

http://jlundeen.blogspot.com.au/2015/02/moonlight-buttress-solo.html?m=1

Olbert

8-Feb-2015
11:29:55 AM

To somebody who knows about this stuff - is soloing only worth three daisies for protection as dangerous as it sounds? Even if the pro itself is bomber?

marky

8-Feb-2015
5:30:49 PM

A true soloist carry's NO gear.

I remember Perer Croft telling his account when he Soloed the Rostrum that he got to a crux section and there was a fixed sling. Being a very dicey crux he opens the sling and grabed the hold. He thought if I pop the sling will catch my arm. He got through it and toped out.

Everyone in the Valley were like... You soloed the Rostrum!!!!??!!!!

Crofts response was: "yes. BUT. He said that "BUT" ( opening the sling )

That BUT just ate him up. So the next day he went back and soloed the Rostrum AGAIN! This time he got to the crux where the sling was. Moved it aside and toped it out.

He just couldn't live with that BUT against his solo of the Rostrum.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

9-Feb-2015
4:27:06 PM

On the purism side, marky has nailed it with the Peter Croft analogies.

On 8/02/2015 Olbert wrote:
>To somebody who knows about this stuff - is soloing only worth three daisies
>for protection as dangerous as it sounds? Even if the pro itself is bomber?

Alex Honnold free soloed the climb in question..., but to answer your question;

The writer of the trip report wrote;

>I never felt in danger, but I'm had to place more nuts, and be more picky with my placements. There were a few times where I couldn't get 3 bomber pieces, so I'm had to settle for 2 bomber placements and one average placement.

& regarding a pitch higher up wrote;

>This pitch wasn't difficult to aid, but definitely less straightforward and the placements were not as good as the last two pitches. I'm thankful to be back on the rope for this part.

~> He obviously cherry picked the portions that he was prepared to diss the rope on...

Replying as a non-purist, ie for the most part being a roped-soloist, the three daisy technique isn't that dangerous providing the protection gear is good.
This personal judgement is based on extensive experience of thin-aid, where the protection is less than good...

Caldwell did the NIAD using that technique extensively quite a while back, and many were impressed at the boldness of it at the time.
It does involve risk as there are many times that only two (or one), ett is connected to pro while doing it...

It saves time and can be likened to crack-jumaring where such things as Leeper Cam-hooks are used.
The first time I used the technique in earnest was on the Fang pitch of Ozymandias Direct back in the late '90's, and that semi-offwidth crack still ate me alive... The main reason I utilised the technique at the time was to conserve my limited number of required size cams due not carrying many of them...

Olbert

9-Feb-2015
6:07:16 PM

It's been said been said more times than I can count that daisies are for aid only - the reason being is that they are not good under more than body weight. I've certainly had the stitching of a single loop fail from just jumaring - that was a scary experience - although the actual safety of the entire sling may be ok even if all the single loops fail.

In the situation of a failed piece then the next daisy chain down would be shockloaded in every sense of the word. I'm not sure what forces can be generated in that scenario - it depends on how squidgy the human body really is - but I reckon it would be a hell of a lot more than bodyweight.

I reckon it's one of those situations that, assuming the pro is bomber, the risk is low. But not negligible and certainly higher than your average day out.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

11-Feb-2015
11:08:14 AM

On 9/02/2015 Olbert wrote:
>It's been said been said more times than I can count that daisies are for
>aid only - the reason being is that they are not good under more than body
>weight. I've certainly had the stitching of a single loop fail from just
>jumaring - that was a scary experience - although the actual safety of
>the entire sling may be ok even if all the single loops fail.
>
>In the situation of a failed piece then the next daisy chain down would
>be shockloaded in every sense of the word. I'm not sure what forces can
>be generated in that scenario - it depends on how squidgy the human body
>really is - but I reckon it would be a hell of a lot more than bodyweight.
>
More than once I have taken lead aid climbing falls where my daisy has caught me due still being attached to pro below.
It is hard on the waist.
However, I wasn't too surprised on those occasions that the rhetoric about one's world ending in that scenario did not come to pass.

>I reckon it's one of those situations that, assuming the pro is bomber, the risk is low. But not negligible and certainly higher than your average day out.

I certainly agree with that.

phillipivan

12-Feb-2015
5:30:06 PM

I read the first few paragraphs. I couldn't cope with every sentence beginning with I. I stopped reading. I then wrote about the experience on chockstone. I therein denounce the author as a hack.

marky

12-Feb-2015
6:41:03 PM

On 12/02/2015 phillipivan wrote:
>I read the first few paragraphs. I couldn't cope with every sentence beginning
>with I. I stopped reading. I then wrote about the experience on chockstone.
>I therein denounce the author as a hack.

I agree! Lol

IdratherbeclimbingM9

12-Feb-2015
7:26:09 PM

On 12/02/2015 marky wrote:
>On 12/02/2015 phillipivan wrote:
>>I read the first few paragraphs.
>>I couldn't cope with every sentence beginning with I.
>>I stopped reading.
>>I then wrote about the experience on chockstone.
>>I therein denounce the author as a hack.
>
>I agree! Lol

I, I, I, don't.
I Heh, I heh, I heh.
Seriously, that aspect never registered with me, perhaps because I read it with an eye for beta.
I do remember thinking to myself that he was making bumbly mistakes though...

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