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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
TR: Ozymandias Direct - Easter 2014

clusterfck
25/04/2014
1:20:31 AM
Mmmmm, all my apologies but It seems I have some issues posting the full text at once and I'm not very familiar with the editing on Chockstone (if someone can help ?)...

So here is a link to our trip report for Ozymandias Direct: http://ozymandias2014.s3-website-ap-southeast-1.amazonaws.com/

http://wp.me/p4zVss-b
mikllaw
25/04/2014
6:59:26 AM
awesome epic. Love the Australian customs card, don't try that in the USA. I used to live in Wangaratta, it's a preserved slice of life in the 70s, very inconvenient.

Miguel75
25/04/2014
7:14:01 AM
Awesome TR. I really enjoyed your stoke and the pics of you guys hanging in space...

ClusterFck
25/04/2014
1:01:47 PM
Thanks guys. @Miguel75, I read you went on Lord Gumtree not too long ago. It looked so green from Ozy this weekend...beautiful pictures

@mikllaw: yeah, we laughed about it but realized that it was the truth :) If immigration wanted to find us, this is where we were
Brendan
25/04/2014
2:54:15 PM
Great trip report, thanks for posting it up.


IdratherbeclimbingM9
25/04/2014
8:48:16 PM
I really enjoyed this trip report, as it brought back fond memories.

Re the following;

>We went to the Pitari's Café… After ordering what will turn out to be an atrocious 30$ shrimp risotto, I asked the waitress if she could pour some hot water in the flask. The owner shouted at her and at me, arguing that “his” café won’t allow this and just fired the poor waitress on the spot … Everyone was standing wordless… Our worst experiment on this trip so far. We left Wangaratta pissed for wasting one extra hour of our time.

I live locally.
I shall spread the word that this establishment is not the greatest...


>Looking at the narrow chimney, I thought we made the correct decision to belay from there. Other parties will have to explain to me how the hell you haul a bag through this thing.

You don't haul through the chimney-slot.
Once you negotiate it, set up your haul on the bolts on Wilkinson Ledge at the start of 'A5 Sport Climb (the last pitch of Strange Ritual), and haul directly to Wilko Ledge up the outside of the slot.


>What can I say? For some, Ozy is just another big wall. To me, it is my biggest achievement to date. I can’t emphasize too much how good this route was and how much I’ve learnt during this journey. It blows my mind to know that some people can free this monster. Just jump on Ozy, it is worth every single effort.

You mimmick my sentiment many years after my first successful ascent of it with a partner who remains strongly bonded to me by that experience unto this day.

Thanks for posting your trip report.

Chockstone Moderator
25/04/2014
9:05:38 PM
On 25/04/2014 clusterfck wrote:
>Mmmmm, all my apologies but It seems I have some issues posting the full
>text at once and I'm not very familiar with the editing on Chockstone (if
>someone can help ?)...
>
From what I have seen, long Trip Reports sometimes don't post easily as one single entity.
If broken into two (or sometimes more) parts, they post up ok.

The only caveat to that, is the use of ' (singular quotation) marks.
If there is an odd number of them (as opposed to even numbers), then they interfere with posts.

phillipivan
Online Now
25/04/2014
9:09:35 PM
Thanks for the report. Your not the first group I've known to fly to Australia for a long weekend just to climb the route. Driving Airport ->Mt Buffalo ->Airport. I met some kiwis who were doing that after they topped out a few years ago. I was impressed or shocked that thy had rented a BMW to drive to the gorge.

It opens my eyes about that route's reputation.

phillipivan
Online Now
25/04/2014
9:19:23 PM
On 25/04/2014 Chockstone Moderator wrote:
>From what I have seen, long Trip Reports sometimes don't post easily as one single entity.

I found one way to do it was to post a short post, like '.', then edit that post, and replace it with the entire long trip report, that has worked for me in the past.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
25/04/2014
9:31:40 PM
On 25/04/2014 phillipivan wrote:
>On 25/04/2014 Chockstone Moderator wrote:
>>>
>>From what I have seen, long Trip Reports sometimes don't post easily
>as one single entity.
>
>I found one way to do it was to post a short post, like '.', then edit
>that post, and replace it with the entire long trip report, that has worked
>for me in the past.
>

I have found that too.
However I have also found that if I go back to edit it, this sometimes isn't accepted.

I don't fully understand why this is the case, as in early days before I knew how to upload photos, any edits were accepted easily, however in latter days, ie if the TR includes photos, it sometimes takes multiple attempts to go through, and the longest of the previous TR's has never been successful in this retro-edit regard.

ClusterFck
25/04/2014
11:52:52 PM
>Thanks for the report. Your not the first group I've known to fly to Australia for a long weekend just to climb the route

It was really worth the 7h flight ! we will be back for more climbs in this beautiful area. We only have a few big walls in south east asia and the challenges are differents. If one of you guys wants to travel in our region and escape the Australian winter, you should have look to Tioman Island in Malaysia. The dragon horns will provide you with a mind blowing adventure (Waking Dreams is awesome). PM me for more details

>You don't haul through the chimney-slot

I did not realize that there was a bolted anchor there. Thanks for the information, it makes perfect sense.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
26/04/2014
9:41:54 AM
On 25/04/2014 ClusterFck wrote:
Re
>>You don't haul through the chimney-slot
>
>I did not realize that there was a bolted anchor there. Thanks for the information, it makes perfect sense.
>
Most people do what you did, as have I, on my first time there.

I have since found that hauling is easier by either;
1.) using the Strange Ritual bolt, on the front face (directly below the lookout), just above Wilkinson ledge, or...
2.) haul to the (relatively new) bolts near the base of that chimney-slot, and then make the next haul from the topout(!), ... thereby skipping taking it through the slot. This requires setting an anchor off the boulder (outside the railing area), at top and throwing the tail of the haulrope back down 'outside' of the slot.

I have not done this next option (yet), but strongly suspect it is do-able with a 60 m rope...
Possible 3.) Use rope management tactics (keep the haulrope going where it will be unobstructed), to haul directly from the hanging belay on the headwall above the fang, all the way to the topout, in one go. This tactic might require lower-out/pendule of haulbag off that belay.
huwj
27/04/2014
7:12:14 PM
Great write up! Enjoyed reading about your adventure. Nicely done guys.

On 25/04/2014 clusterfck wrote:
>Sleeping at Gledhill is so out of this world

Agreed! :)
gfdonc
28/04/2014
9:04:05 PM

Classic!


There are 14 messages in this topic.

 

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