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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 75
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Balls Pyramid

Climboholic
1/06/2009
8:58:09 PM
My apologies to Zane for being pessimistic. I respect what you are trying to do. Without people like you we wouldn't have half the climbing destinations we have today. I've been eyeing Ball's Pyramid for a few years since a friend showed me a photo. It would be an amazing climb.
prb
2/06/2009
1:33:13 PM
LHI is technically part of NSW.

Maybe issue a restricted number (100?) of climbing permits per year and charge a fortune. The local tour
operator will take you out, try to get you landed and check that you stay on the normal route (new routing
not allowed). Some parties may want to bring an accredited guide with them. I'm sure climbing Balls
would have great appeal among cashed-up European and American adventure tourist types and Aussies
willing to pay for the privilege. By law (!), profits would have to be used to fund ecological projects in
NSW including monitoring the effect of human visitation on Balls and getting rid of rats from LHI. I reckon
the latter could be done. It was achieved down on Campbell Island which, I must say, is an amazing
place to visit (anyone know if the Menhir on Campbell has had a free ascent?)
patto
2/06/2009
1:40:01 PM
On 1/06/2009 Climboholic wrote:
>On 1/06/2009 mattjr wrote:
>>No wine required... just don't tell the authorities!!!!
>>
>
>That's what I was thinking... If you want a real 'adventure' climb try
>doing it while the ban is in place without getting caught. Or better yet,
>go climbing in Afghanistan. They've got some amazing rock there!

With less than 350 permanent residents and restricted to 400 tourists at any one time you will find it difficult to do anything like this on Lord Howe Island unnoticed. Sure if you charter your own boat leaving from Sydney you might be able to do it but it is hardly worth the effort.
widewetandslippery
2/06/2009
1:48:01 PM

>With less than 350 permanent residents and restricted to 400 tourists
>at any one time you will find it difficult to do anything like this on
>Lord Howe Island unnoticed. Sure if you charter your own boat leaving
>from Sydney you might be able to do it but it is hardly worth the effort.

I have a mate who has climbed it sailing from sydney and from the smile he has each time he tells the story I reckon, yes it was worth the effort.


patto
2/06/2009
1:52:04 PM
On 2/06/2009 widewetandslippery wrote:
>
>I have a mate who has climbed it sailing from sydney and from the smile
>he has each time he tells the story I reckon, yes it was worth the effort.
>

I almost was about to edit my post and change it to effort & cost! I wish I had the money for this sort of adventure. :-) Good on your mate!

jkane
2/06/2009
5:16:10 PM
Thanks Zane.

I have made a personal submission.
John Davis
3/06/2009
2:23:21 PM
Zane put me onto this discussion.
I'm retired from climbing due to knuckle damage (arthritus), so watch it lads!
Son Russ lives at Mt Victoria NSW and climbs when work and kids allow.
Sophie climbs when time and kids allow.

The point not being made in this Balls Pyramid discussion is the inspirational value of the place. Maybe
not everyone can achieve it, but many can aspire to it. Those who have climbed it are touched forever.

OK, I think we should limit it because overuse would degrade it. I don't think money should be the main
limit. Society would benefit more if it was used something like The Duke of Edinburgh award: to develop
people and future leaders. Maybe an interview process by a committee of.. well climbers and society
leaders. Every year on say Australia day the PM makes a big announcement: "And this years permission to climb Balls Pyramid goes to ........" It could be limited to say 10 teams of 10 maximum.

Each team, or the climbing selection committee, would have a team of climbers (maybe the next team)
who would sign up promising to rescue anyone who was in trouble. And try to keep the police out of it
as it wold be wasted on them. They would enjoy the rescue, then moan about how much trouble and
cost it was. Far better to use rescues to develop climbers abilities.

John Davis

John Davis
3/06/2009
2:26:23 PM
If there are any ascents you know of please let me know and I'll put them into the log.
A few years ago we had a 40 year reunion of climbers of Balls Pyramid and from our
memories we came up with the following:

A Brief History of Climbs on Ball's Pyramid:

Various parties have landed on the pyramid and claimed to have climbed it neglecting to
mention “climbed on it”. A common mistake made even today.

April 1964: (Nov in LHI guest book??? - check)
Estimated Visit No. 6
Rick Higgins Dave Roots: Single day to some distance above Gannet Green
Dave Roots estimates they got to the base of Winklestein Steeple.

Dec 1964
Estimated Visit No. 7 to Pyramid by climbers.
"Tai Hoa" from Sydney:
Heroic landing in high seas (see film): reached summit of Winklestein's
Steeple
Rick Higgins
Dave Roots
John Hodson 25
Ian Gasking 20
David Kingsford-Smith 24
David Lambert 24 Filmed climb
Roger Whittaker 21 Filmed climb
Dick Smith 22
Dave Larkin 20


Feb 1965
Visit No. 8
First ascent; Via SE Ridge
Bryden Allen
David Witham
John Davis
Jack Pettigrew
Jack Hill.....all reached the summit

Don Willcox
Ben Sandilands (correspondent for the Sydney Morning Herald whose long
distance swim from the Pyramid to the boat enabled photos of the climb to
appear on the front page of the paper on the following 2 days.).
.
?Jan 1969
Visit No. 9 by climbers:
The purpose of this expedition was for Gary Steer
and John Davis to make the movie, commissioned by the ABC, that can now be
viewed on DVD.

John Davis
Gary Steer
Jack Pettigrew
Rona Pettigrew (Nee Butler)
John Worral
John Dennis
Wes Kilham
Jim Smith
Sydney Tanner – Brisbane
Second “high altitude cargo technologist from Brisbane......all reached the summit

Nancy Maiden
Nancy’s nurse friend from Mudgee (Carol?)

1970
First ascent of N Ridge: This climb involves a more difficult landing,
through shoals, and a more demanding, direct line compared with the SE
Ridge. The teetering towers of gendarmes were avoided by abseiling down to
ledges on the Eastern side that gave access to ledges leading to the summit
pyramid

Keith Bell
Kevin Wilson with John Worral
Howard Bevan in Canada
Ray Lassman in Europe/America
Hugh Ward (now deceased)
Keith Royce (did not go to top)
Swimming rugged. Landing diff. Rocks and shoals
Huey went first
Fixed ropes used until 1/3 from summit
Ledges cave 200ft up
Sail sticks up on E. Side 500 - 700 ft up
Abseiled down E. Side to avoid gendarmes
Rainy (edge of tropical cyclone?) conclusion for those who stripped fixed ropes.
Summit block was 17-18 fair rock and steep

1971
Attempt on West Face: Finished on the gendarmes of the N. Ridge instead of
summit. Dogged by rockfall and loss of gear.
John Worral
Hugh Ward (hurt when large rock came off)
Bill Zemek
Pete Hackett (hurt on landing. Did not climb).

Start on Ramp around side in lee
Written up along with Ross Vining expedition (see...).


Early 1973
Alpine style skyline traverse during Cyclone Kirsty
Laded by boat "Lulawai" skippered by Clive Wilson
1st alpine ascent & skyline traverse
Up South ridge and Down the North
Greg Mortimer
Keith Bell

Dec 1978
Boat "Melaleuca" from Sydney.
Ascent of south ridge and return to sea level via the same ridge.
Ross Vining
Don
Bill Blunt
Ian Brown


?Date:
Robert Stascewski Qld.
Rick White
Full skyline traverse



1980
Helicopter-assisted ascent: Climbers jumped into the water from chopper.
John Worral
Hugh Ward
Dick Smith

Bell Ranger whose engines are not susceptible to interference by flying
birds (which would otherwise be a big problem on Ball's); no doors
Vietnam veteran as Pilot
Called up pilot for a beer, delivered in pitch dark!
Chopper took Dick off summit
Filmed by ABC for big country.

Claimed Pyramid as part of NSW as a bet with the Premier of NSW Neville Wran
Prior to this Balls Pyramid was an unclaimed rock. It then came under the control of the
National Parks & Wildlife and the unfortunate result is that it in now illegal to climb Balls
Pyramid.

1983
French expedition last to Pyramid.
French party arrived at time when closure of BP to access was being
discussed. Last official climbing party. French lady stayed ashore.
Clive Wilson in Lulawai

Date?
Japanese expedition were landed by boat "Beaumont"/ Jim Whistler on "Santara"
complete transverse


IdratherbeclimbingM9
3/06/2009
2:40:32 PM
On 3/06/2009 John Davis wrote:
>Zane put me onto this discussion.

Welcome to Chockstone John, and thank you for your contribution posts above.

Chockstone (and Australian climbing generally?), would benefit from even more historical items, and we look forward to any further additions that you may care to contribute!

rodw
3/06/2009
2:44:07 PM
On 3/06/2009 John Davis wrote:
>. It then came under the control of the National Parks & Wildlife and the unfortunate >result is that it in now illegal to climb Balls Pyramid.
>

Well you got to say NPWS have been consistant with there approach to climbing over the years
kieranl
3/06/2009
3:08:21 PM
In the late seventies there was a victorian trip.

Iain Sedgman, Kevin Lindorff and (I think) Peter Watson put up "Dream of White Pointers" on east face.
I know Noddy has been there as well, not sure if it was this trip or another.
As a couple of the people are Nati residents I'll get some more details.

nmonteith
3/06/2009
3:14:28 PM
How many routes are there on it? Is it a vegetated ledge ramble - or so does it actually have ok climbing on it? Looking at photos of it makes the solo ascent seem quite remarkable!

nmonteith
3/06/2009
3:17:04 PM
Fantastic photos of the first ascent here
http://www.uq.edu.au/nuq/jack/Bryden.html
climberman
3/06/2009
4:10:06 PM
Thanks for the input John. Excellent contribution to the discussion. I always meant to bug sophie to get you to sign the copy of rope and rucksack that I picked up !

Awesome pics of Bryden's, too - ta Neil.
prb
3/06/2009
4:40:29 PM
Champers on the summit was a nice touch!
simey
3/06/2009
6:49:12 PM
On 3/06/2009 kieranl wrote:
>In the late seventies there was a victorian trip.
>
>Iain Sedgman, Kevin Lindorff and (I think) Peter Watson put up "Dream
>of White Pointers" on east face.
>I know Noddy has been there as well, not sure if it was this trip or another.
>As a couple of the people are Nati residents I'll get some more details.

I'm pretty sure Noddy was on that trip along with Kim Carrigan. I think they hoped to climb the west face but they weren't successful.

I'm pretty sure Mike Myers has climbed it too, but not sure who with.

Zane Priebbenow
3/06/2009
6:53:32 PM
On 3/06/2009 John Davis wrote:

>The point not being made in this Balls Pyramid discussion is the inspirational
>value of the place. Maybe not everyone can achieve it, but many can aspire to it. >Those who have climbed it are touched forever.


Thanks for your comments and thoughts John. Your posts demonstrate the rich climbing heritage of Balls Pyramid and the personal significance this special place can hold for the individual.

It would be great to hear other first hand accounts of those who have climbed the spire, their opinions on the issue of access and what Balls Pyramid means to them on a personal level. If anyone has contact with these climbers please notify them of this discussion.

I've seen Johns 1969 film “the Second Ascent of Balls Pyramid”. The fisheye summit approach footage is spectacularly inspiring. Recommended viewing!

Only 26 days left to make your submissions. (Submissions close on 29 June 2009)

doc
3/06/2009
10:09:22 PM
http://www.voea.vic.edu.au/publications/journeys/davidwitham_searle.html
Tlockwood
3/06/2009
11:08:30 PM
On 3/06/2009 simey wrote:

>I'm pretty sure Noddy was on that trip

yep

>Is it a vegetated ledge ramble - or so does it actually have ok climbing on it?

quite vegetated i've heard from dad, not the best quality climbing
John Davis
4/06/2009
8:56:47 AM
I've put your text into the history, but it would be better if we could get accurate information.
We all know the rules, if it isn't recorded, it wasn't done.

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There are 75 messages in this topic.

 

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