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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 75
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Balls Pyramid

IdratherbeclimbingM9
10/05/2013
8:37:23 PM
On 10/05/2013 technogeekery wrote:
>I was reading some stuff over on the 'Taco about Ball's Pyramid, and was
>wondering what became of this PoM. Bump for an interesting topic, and an
>update.
>
>From NSW Environment & Heritage, this is extracted from the PLan of Management
>adopted in 2010:
>
>Access:
>
>"Except with the permission of the Board for management or research purposes,
>access (for both visitors and residents) will not be permitted to the
>following areas... - any of the offshore islands, apart from Roach Island
>and Blackburn Island"
>
>Activities:
>
>"Recreational rock climbing is prohibited on Balls Pyramid and on areas
>above
>walking tracks (e.g. on the cliff above the Lower Road). Elsewhere on
>the island it
>requires either permission from the Board or the services of a licensed
>guide. No
>applications for rock climbing have been received in recent times and
>it is generally
>believed that the geology of most cliff faces is too unstable to permit
>safe climbing.
>Climbing to access research sites (e.g. on Balls Pyramid) or for management
>purposes (e.g. weeding on cliffs) can occur, subject to the Board’s approval."
>
>You can download a copy of the PoM from http://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/parkmanagement/LordHoweIslandPomFinal.htm
>
Obviously nothing has changed for the better or for that matter progressed on the issue.
This is not unusual for the parry o'feral gubmint in my opinion...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
14/06/2013
11:17:00 AM
Partially off topic, however I have just become aware of an upcoming TV show that had an advertisement short sequence of aerial footage of Balls Pyramid, and someone (on Lord Howe Isl?), handling a phasmid.

Australia's Remote Islands.
Sunday 16 June at 6pm on ABC1


Might be worth a look?

Post edit.
Saw it, and interesting as it was, it did not involve much of Balls Pyramid, though the aerial footage it had of it was good.
In fact as a show for general public, it annoyed me that NP&WS personnel (admittedly a now-retired ranger interviewed, who did the follow up expedition back then), continue to take credit for 'discovering' the 'extinct' phasmids, when in fact they wouldn't have known about them being on that remote sea stack if it wasn't for adventurous climbers finding them first!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2/07/2013
9:26:12 AM
Also partially off topic, but historically interesting anyway; while trawling Chocky background fine-detail I came across the following info that may not have had its expectation met? ~> So thought I'd post it to the thread even though the request is old, as it might still eventuate...

From;
Jonathan Pascoe

>
Although not mentioned in despatches I was fortunate to be the sole New Zealander on the 2nd ascent of Balls Pyramid in 1969. I had been invited by John Davis and Gary Steer to join them after meeting up the season before while climbing in the Mt Cook region in New Zealand.

>I have lost contact over the last 40 years and did not ever see the film or the DVD of that ascent. I recently read a murder mystery ''Bright Air'' by Sydney author Barry Maitland which was centred around Balls Pyramid. It brought back a lot of memories, and with an internet search I came across Chockstones and the discussions concerning access to the Pyramid.

>For me the trip was a one off exceptional experience. Although I have continued to climb in NZ, as well as spending time in South America, the Arctic and the Antarctic, Balls Pyramid is right up there. It was a truly great adventure - the total package from flying boat to Lord Howe,the swim from the chartered fishing boat,the sea sickness,getting the food and water ashore,the climbing,the bird life, the 10cm centipede hanging off my lower lip one night,the changing mood of the sea,and the sky,the exposure, and the camaraderie.

>It would be a great shame if this total stand out experience is denied to others.
>Sensible guidelines would need to be made, but it is difficult to see how a limited number of climbers would have a detrimental effect on the rock or the wildlife, particularly as the vast majority of the pyramid except the southwest ridge will continue to be inaccessible because of landing difficulties.

>If there is an available source to obtain a copy of the DVD of the 1969 ascent and to obtain John Davis''s email address to make contact again I would be very appreciative.



Chloe
2/07/2013
9:37:22 AM
John's email is attached to his post (click on his name) earlier in the thread.
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?ForumID=15&Action=Display&MessageID=9963&PagePos=0&Sort=

ejayt
2/07/2013
11:43:33 AM
Has anyone actually attempted to ask for permission to climb it recently? If there were a large amount of people requesting, would it be enough for them to change their mind considering their management plan was decided upon having not many climbing requests?

I don't think I would be up for a trip out there in the next year or so, but it would be great to have this available in case I get a little bit more adventurous =)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2/07/2013
12:31:18 PM
On 2/07/2013 ejayt wrote:
>Has anyone actually attempted to ask for permission to climb it recently?
>If there were a large amount of people requesting, would it be enough for
>them to change their mind considering their management plan was decided
>upon having not many climbing requests?
>

I don't know, but would love them to have public transparency and timeliness regarding such requests.
The wheels of progress with that mob move at glacial speed... ~> Though I note at this site;

http://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/parkmanagement/ParkManagementPlans.htm

... where the updates are posted when they happen; that one recent update* for amendments to Kuringai/Barrenjoey as per;

http://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/resources/planmanagement/draft/20130246KurringaiNPPOMAmend2013.pdf

... include the (re)opening of more horse riding trails due to increased pressure from the proponents thereof, ... and even the consideration of picnic facilities at Barrenjoey (amongst other possible changes), due the increased visitation there.


(* The Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park Draft on Public Exhibition, are still seeking submissions till 17 July 2013).

Interesting that though they sought submissions to the LHIMP back in 2009, it has had nothing put out for review since then, though the website quotes "Page last updated: 20 June 2012", and we rely on a (rehashed?), plan of 17th November 2010# as a result.

# What is going on there? Did they put something out and we missed it??
~> When I peruse that document, nothing has changed.
The relevant bit is still;
Recreational rock climbing is prohibited on Balls Pyramid and on areas above
walking tracks (e.g. on the cliff above the Lower Road).

Elsewhere on the island it requires either permission from the Board or the services of a licensed guide.

No applications for rock climbing have been received in recent times and it is generally
believed that the geology of most cliff faces is too unstable to permit safe climbing.

Climbing to access research sites (e.g. on Balls Pyramid) or for management
purposes (e.g. weeding on cliffs) can occur, subject to the Board’s approval.

Other hazardous adventure activities, such as hang gliding, abseiling and
parachuting from cliff edges (also known as BASE-jumping), are not known to occur
in the preserve.

As mentioned in Section 6.1, the Board and island residents have limited capacity to rescue injured visitors in the remoter sections of the preserve, and therefore restrictions are required on these activities.

Damo666
Online Now
2/07/2013
1:21:07 PM
On 2/07/2013 ejayt wrote:
>Has anyone actually attempted to ask for permission to climb it recently?
>If there were a large amount of people requesting, would it be enough for
>them to change their mind considering their management plan was decided
>upon having not many climbing requests?

Be careful what you wish for. It's a relatively small physical area, dangerous to get to, so do we really want a 'large amount of people' trying to go there? If allowed, this would probably initiate some torturous and expensive bureaucratic process, at best. You think the NSW govt could really manage this? Maybe if you want to shoot something.

Don't invite a government to tell you what to do. There's enough of that already.

If people are really keen and competent they can go do it 'illegally', like it has been done before. If you're* doing it for the enjoyment and personal satisfaction and all that crap and you don't need the bragging rights then nobody other than your partner(s) has to know you did it. If you can't be bothered going to all the trouble to organise it properly and safely and want it to be 'easier' then maybe it's something that's not for you.


*By 'you' I mean people in general, not necessarily you ejayt.

vwills
3/07/2013
3:34:38 PM
There has been a very good and thorough proposal in a very advanced stage submitted to climb Balls over the last couple of years with scientific objectives and research to further its legitimacy, and it is still being knocked back.

If you think you can sneak onto Balls and climb it without the guys on LHI knowing whats going on you are dreaming. You can't fart on that island without the community knowing :)
PeterW
22/11/2013
1:12:42 AM
I only just tripped over this thread recently, so sorry for the belated reply. I thought it worth noting our trip since there doesn't seem to be any other hits on the 'net about Balls Pyramid ascents.

Dec 1975
Landed by "Lulawai" skippered by Clive Wilson
Joint trip by two parties:
VIC: Iain Sedgman (aka "Sharkbait"), Kevin Lindorff, Peter Watson
NSW: Kim Carrigan, Ben Maddison, Roark Muhlen, Keith (Noddy) Lockwood (on loan to NSW)

The NSW team climbing as two pairs reached the summit via the South ridge.

The VIC team put up a new route "A Dream of White Pointers" (about 17) on the South-East face. The route joined the South ridge above Winklestein's Steeple, however due to the lack of food and water after several days of climbing, the team did not continue to the summit.

Points of interest: Buzzed by an F-111 piloted by the son of a Lord Howe resident. Severe storms (cyclone?) delayed leaving Balls Pyramid for many days. During the storm Noddy was washed into the ocean during a toilet break and needed to be rescued. Most of both team's gear was lost as Clive Wilson (arriving unexpectedly during a break in the weather) would not hang around to tow it out to the boat, and in the rush to leave it was insecurely tied to the rock.
PeterW
24/11/2013
12:11:41 AM
On 2/07/2013 Chloe wrote:
>John's email is attached to his post (click on his name) earlier in the thread.
>http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?ForumID=15&Action=Display&MessageID=9963&PagePo=0&Sort=

Unfortunately that email address no longer seems to be active. I tried to send John the details about our 1975 trip and the email bounced.

Pat
20/05/2014
9:18:45 PM
Do tell - if there are no pictures, it never happened.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
21/05/2014
9:42:03 PM
So how did you find the rock quality, and the protection opportunities?

Post edit 25/07/14:

On 20/05/2014 Pat wrote:
>Do tell - if there are no pictures, it never happened.

~> No pics and no post either!

Hmm. It would seem that the alleged clandestine ascent will remain just that, as the post that Pat and I responded to, has gone the way of all things clandestine.

However... there was also a rumour in the Australian Web-newspaper, 50 Looking Back section, as linked by martym today, so I shall put it here for context instead...

In 1964, Dick Smith, too, was told it couldn’t be done
• The Australian
• July 12, 2014 12:00AM
Jamie Walker
Associate Editor, QLD
Brisbane

CLIMBING Balls Pyramid changed Dick Smith’s life. Clamped to a tiny ledge, the wind howling, an angry ocean churning far below, he learned to conquer his fear and to never, ever give up.
If only young Australians today could have the same experience, he says, rather than risk a $5000 fine by making the climb on the sly, as a two-man team from Sydney did earlier this year.


Snacks
22/05/2014
7:54:49 AM
On 3/07/2013 vwills wrote:
>There has been a very good and thorough proposal in a very advanced stage
>submitted to climb Balls over the last couple of years with scientific
>objectives and research to further its legitimacy, and it is still being
>knocked back.
>
>If you think you can sneak onto Balls and climb it without the guys on
>LHI knowing whats going on you are dreaming. You can't fart on that island
>without the community knowing :)

I too want to kill some whales for scientific purposes... err... I mean...

Climb ball's pyramid... err... I mean... Conduct research on a cliff...
PThomson
22/05/2014
10:35:40 AM
Rare Phasmid research, Snacks....
martym
24/07/2014
10:32:07 PM
According to the Australian, Dick Smith "has supported a stealth campaign for others to retrace his steps, offering to pay the potential $5000 fine. Should a Lord Howe islander try, there’s a trophy and round-the-world ticket to be won.

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There are 75 messages in this topic.

 

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