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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles The Northern Group (General) Mysteries Wall [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Topic Date User
So Called 14 in Mysteries Gully Wednesday, 27 April 2005 At 10:51:54 PM kieranl
Message
A route was written up in Argus "Honey Pot 14 Juggy slab route immediately right (around the corner) of Poosticks. Andrew Martin".

We did this on weekend and just about everything is wrong about the description.
Grade is more like 16 or 17, is not juggy and is very runout to the first bolt which is way off-route out left and insecure to clip - not nice when facing a big swinging ground-fall. It has two rings to a double ring anchor needing some trad gear below the first ring. All bolts are left of the actual climbing but only the first is hard to clip and the hardest moves are bolt protected.

I had a chat with Andrew and found it wasn't his write up. The route doesn't actually have a name - Nathan grabbed Honey Pot for one of his routes so Andrew has to think of the name. He agrees about the grade. I suggested that the climb needed a bolt below the current first one and he's agreed to have a look at it.

It's a good climb but quite scarey in it's current form.

 

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