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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Any info on climbing around Cairns??

8:31:20 PM
Is there a climbing scene around Cairns or the Atherton tablelands?
7:34:12 AM
darno, but there's mt stuart at townsville. that's only a cpl hours down the road....isn't it?

1:57:12 PM

2:01:26 PM
On 17/06/2009 citationx wrote:
>darno, but there's mt stuart at townsville. that's only a cpl hours down
>the road....isn't it?

about 3 hrs

4:52:03 PM
Thanks Paulie, very helpful. Anyone have more info on the large route in Mossmon Gorge?

11:56:05 AM
You're talking about the chossy moss filled thing up Mt Bishop (well that's what we used to call it when we lived there)? I think it's a pretty scary aid route with some low level free climbing isn't it? There's also some more climbing on some huge chossy cliffs up north a bit towards Daintree. I took my bouldering gear into the Gorge once and couldn't find anything. I know there's a significant waterfall about a 1/2 hour walk upstream but I couldn't be arsed walking up there. Have a look at the seaside areas between Pt Douglas and Cairns, there's some nice looking cliff lines there. Jullatten(sp?) also has quite a bit of rock around.

12:29:25 PM

12:57:56 PM
^ on that link above they talk about a place called Mt Mulligan - I googled it and it looks amazing!

Only two climbs recorded?!

10:05:24 AM
I've got a couple mates who live up that way. One's done some climbing around Mossman Gorge (or somewhere near by I think) and the other's been out to Mt Mulligan (not for climbing though) so I'll see what I can dig up.

Edit to add, just heard back and Barron Gorge sounded like the best place to start looking.

10:10:41 AM
Mossman Gorge has at least one 'big wall' aid route up it. I can't remember the details (James Pfrunder knows more). I have this pic in my archives which shows the route location...

10:23:51 AM
On 1/07/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>^ on that link above they talk about a place called Mt Mulligan - I googled
>it and it looks amazing!
That does look amazing. However, I found it so incredibly humid at Mossman Gorge I could hardly walk, let alone climb. Others might cope, but I'd have a coronary incident climbing up there.

10:38:28 AM
Once you get away from the coast its all dry and hot instead.

11:14:33 AM
On 2/07/2009 evanbb wrote:
>... found it so incredibly humid at Mossman Gorge I could hardly walk, let alone climb.

Seconded mate!

I reckon there'd also be some limsetone stuff to be done out near the Chillagoe Caves, we went there when I was about 13 or so and remember some impressive limestone features. Be worth checking out at the very least.

12:35:03 PM
I've also been to Chillagoe when i was a kid. Looks a bit like a sea of razor blades!
1:32:53 PM
Mt Mulligan has very very very soft rock. Like really crazy soft rock.

Chillago is bloody hot all the time and the limestone seems quite fragile.

Mossman gorge looks fantastic, the trouble is actually finding the route and the way in. Would be great to hear from the guys who put the route up originally.

Baron gorge is great. Fun climbing. I believe the area is currently closed to climbers (however that never really stopped anybody. Last time I went down there the walking track was a little overgrown. You can only really climb in winter because in summer the whole place is under water.

There are various other places to climb around Cairns, however most of them are much easier to do if you have a local the guide you around. I grew up in this area, but I currently live in Brisbane.

There is also a tone of potential for climbing on the Atherton tableands, however it is winter only and you would need a 4WD to get access to it.

2:13:54 PM
There are (were - it's been a while) some good bolted routes up Robbs monument, a pillar of rock next to the Cairns - Kuranda railway line (named in honour of some dude who played a pivotal role in building the railway). Sitting on top of the pillar as the tourist train rolled past, full of geriatrics and jap tourists wavng madly, remains a very surreal memory.

2:31:20 PM
On 2/07/2009 tris wrote:
>Mt Mulligan has very very very soft rock. Like really crazy soft rock.

The photo posted above looks like desert varnished sandstone, a bit like Moab region in the USA. Are you sure its really soft? I can see that the caves look white sandy rubbish - but the walls look good - i hope!
3:11:37 PM
Pretty sure.

Mulligan is also home to a very old via ferrata which is mostly rusted away now. From memory Mt Mulligan was home to Australia's worste mining disaster.

Robs monument is still there and the bolts are ok. The base is quite overgrown, but not impossible to access. I think there is a total of 4 bolted routes ranging from 18 to 23 on carrots. Be aware that climbing on Robs monument is also forbidden (as it is on railway property). I have never had a problem climbing there though. Be very aware that the rail line is still activly used by not only the tourist train but also other rail vehicles.

3:13:21 PM
Correction, Queenslands worst mining disaster.

There is some information here:

"It was a coal mining town from 1910 until 19 September 1921 when an underground explosion killed 75 miners (all the miners in the town)."

3:15:34 PM
Does anyone know if Mt Mulligan is part of a national park or state forest? I can't find much info about it online...

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There are 23 messages in this topic.


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