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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall [ Taipan Images ] 

Author
Sidewinder (27)

Super Saiyan
30/03/2005
3:48:10 PM
Does anyone know anything about this route?? There is a short mention of it in the Mentz Tempest guide to grampians, but doesnt really give away much. Is the entire top pitch sport??? what gear is required to do the first pitch? can u do the second pitch only? any info/beta/cheating tips would be appreciated....

nmonteith
30/03/2005
3:53:37 PM
You will need to climb the first pitch of Serpentine - which is scary grade 24 with trad. Sometimes people leave a fixed rope to the anchors at the end of this pitch. I believe the second pitch is all bolts. It looks like an amazing route!

Super Saiyan
30/03/2005
4:19:47 PM
and gear beta on the first pitch of serpentine?? i think it is definately a worthwhile project...

nmonteith
30/03/2005
4:23:28 PM
I havn't done it but i remember malcolm mumbling something about a vital medium cam that most people forget to place - making it a death lead. I think it has at least two bolts. Apparently it is 'as hard' for many climbers as the second pitch of Serpetine!

Super Saiyan
30/03/2005
4:34:02 PM
great... a solid 27 death lead up taipan wall... might as well do Shai Halud! :) **ponders buying airfare to england and taking up gritstone climbing**

nmonteith
30/03/2005
4:37:41 PM
My comments regarding 'death lead' and trad are in reference to the grade 24 first pitch.

Super Saiyan
30/03/2005
4:39:18 PM
ah right, well thats not so bad then... GULP...
WM
30/03/2005
6:59:37 PM
>can u do the second pitch only?

Yes, by rapping in from the top of Serpentine and clipping into it's gear on the way down to reach the belay. The top of Serpentine can be accessed by topping out on Atomic Tadpole (or better yet (ahem) Ukrainian Geranium) or anything down that end then walking along the top - but beware an exposed traverse section above Cardigan St.

You could also reach Serpentine's first belay by climbing Scud Buster (24).

nmonteith
30/03/2005
7:04:40 PM
Warning - Scud Buster was very frightening - we backed off it. Ultra slick sanstone slabbing with big runouts. You would have to do the first pitch of Lawrence of Arabia to get to Scud Buster.

My suggestion - solo Threadneedle to get to the top of the cliff.
Onsight
31/03/2005
3:58:35 PM
Rapping down Serpentine and getting into the bealy is faaar from straight forward!

My suggestion is to climb 1st pitch Serpentine. The gear you need is mentioned in the Select Gramps guidebook. There is a nasty runout in it but if you can't get up that pitch w rests and some jiggery then you probably won't have a chance on Sidewinder (which does look awesome!).

Once you get to the belay you can fix a jug rope up to it for future attemtps - like everyone else.

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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