Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

DMM: New DMM "Belay Master 2" screwgate. I-beam construction and plastic clip. (State of the Art!) N/B Only 1 left!  $25.00
28% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 42
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All ACT (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Michelago / Wingello

Hawkman
18/06/2009
10:28:14 PM
the wall with the cracks is just past white wall and i agree they look great. ill see if i can find a pic.

no other routes on white wall but there shoudl be. left of the crack would have some nice moderates and there is room for a couple on the right as well. rock is nice and solid.
richardo
18/06/2009
10:30:25 PM
the wall looks like a big poo to me.

the poo pockets aren't juicy but boy are they steaming (with this cold weather and all)



rodw
19/06/2009
7:14:32 AM
There is also Iceline on the back of the slab right of Laced with crack which is okay and not on the ACA guide, Austri 22 or 18M1 if you use the bolt to batman up at the start...basically just around the corner of Arc Therapy....one bolt then gear all the way to the top following crack and corner 30m.

On a wall just before La Sancta wall is a twin crack system which would take small gear that looks good..but pretty hard....(I think that the one wombat is referring too???)

For begginer leads throw them on New World Order 14 at Noli wall...its a slab and bolted with 14 leaders in mind and much better then the 2 13's at Nub wall which were bolted in the fading hours of a day just because the rope was there.

Pic below of New world order line....before it was bolted



Once they do that and maybe the 2 15's next to it head around to supa fun happy for your Crack..then put em on Arc Therapy P1 and you will have a bunch of climbing partners for life after that first day.

evanbb
19/06/2009
8:05:21 AM
On 19/06/2009 rodw wrote:
>There is also Iceline on the back of the slab right of Laced with crack
>which is okay and not on the ACA guide, Austri 22 or 18M1 if you use the
>bolt to batman up at the start...basically just around the corner of Arc
>Therapy....one bolt then gear all the way to the top following crack and
>corner 30m.
>Once they do that and maybe the 2 15's next to it head around to supa
>fun happy for your Crack..then put em on Arc Therapy P1 and you will have
>a bunch of climbing partners for life after that first day.

Terrific advice, thanks Rod.

If I'm feeling wandery, where should I head to have a look for the Next Big Thing trad line? Or is the bulk of the good rock in the proscribed area?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
19/06/2009
8:08:09 AM
On 19/06/2009 rodw wrote:
>For begginer leads throw them on (snip)
>Once they do that and maybe the 2 15's next to it (snip)
>..then put em on Arc Therapy P1 and you will have
>a bunch of climbing partners for life after that first day.

In my experience, I have found the attrition rate amongst new potential climbing partners to be greater than that. This was not because they did not enjoy the experience, but more because they only wanted it at that level, and so did not continue for 'life'.

rodw
19/06/2009
8:16:15 AM
Evan there is heaps of rock in that area, the current crag and routes just scratches the surface.

M9..true that..some people just don't get it ;)

evanbb
19/06/2009
8:31:16 AM
On 19/06/2009 rodw wrote:

>M9..true that..some people just don't get it ;)

I've also found that having an epic early on (rapping after dark, getting lost, all things I excel at) can really galvanise people either way. It's a test of character really.

wallwombat
19/06/2009
8:51:02 AM
On 19/06/2009 evanbb wrote:

>If I'm feeling wandery, where should I head to have a look for the Next
>Big Thing trad line? Or is the bulk of the good rock in the proscribed
>area?
>

Evan, there is so much rock around there that if you are feeling a bit "wandery" you will find plenty of trad lines. Get a map and a compass and go for it.

As for the Next Big Thing trad line(s), I could tell you but I'd have to kill you and if i kill you I won't be able to sandbag you on some of the big Granite slabs in the ACT.

And that would be no fun at all.

evanbb
19/06/2009
9:36:14 AM
On 19/06/2009 wallwombat wrote:
>As for the Next Big Thing trad line(s), I could tell you but I'd have
>to kill you and if i kill you I won't be able to sandbag you on some of
>the big Granite slabs in the ACT.
>
>And that would be no fun at all.

The chances of me launching up a granite slab for a first ascent are very, very low. My ego is still stinging from the Denethor debacle. I shat myself on the grade 11 slabby finish to Little Hermes! Something needs to happen inside my head befoer I'll be a good slab climber. Note sure what it is yet.

Sandstone corners though, that's another story all together.

BundyBear
19/06/2009
12:43:39 PM
The Mr White wall has been cleaned up, including the obvious white crack in the middle of the wall. There are some temp anchors under the roof and would be pretty easy to add some more lines up the wall. It stays dry in the rain (as does Laced with Crack) so there is 2 wet weather trad lines to try this weekend.

If anyone is keen to add some more lines on the Mr White wall, can you please add glue in anchors to Mr White.

This weekend looks like Wingello could be a good option, no rain their yet - plenty down at Nowra. Who is going ? I have both days and keen as !!



evanbb
19/06/2009
2:20:04 PM
On 19/06/2009 BundyBear wrote:

>This weekend looks like Wingello could be a good option, no rain their
>yet - plenty down at Nowra. Who is going ? I have both days and keen
>as !!

Well, I'm going. We'll be up about 10 Saturday I reckon.

Look out for the white Subaru Wagon. Full of bumblies.

wallwombat
19/06/2009
5:25:43 PM
On 19/06/2009 evanbb wrote:
>The chances of me launching up a granite slab for a first ascent are very,
>very low. My ego is still stinging from the Denethor debacle. I shat myself
>on the grade 11 slabby finish to Little Hermes! Something needs to happen
>inside my head befoer I'll be a good slab climber. Note sure what it is
>yet.

You read that wrong, Evan. I was talking about sandbagging you on ESTABLISHED granite slabs in the ACT.

WW&S and I might be there. We were planning on Tianjara but might do Wingello instead if there will be a few people there.

Look for a black Mitsubishi van with a very bad paint job. It will probably be parked 4kms from the crag as Warren (my van) doesn't do the drive in to Wingello very well.

evanbb
22/06/2009
8:44:30 AM
So, we went to Wingello. I liked it, there's tonnes of rock there. Weather limited the amount of climbing we got done.

I lead the left hand of one of those 13s (it was one of the first routes we came to) and we all agreed it was mostly worthless. Much easier than 13 too I think; definitely easier than The Eyrie at Mt Boyce, which is my benchmark 12.

It started raining while I was cleaning the anchors, so we went looking for something sheltered. I dogged my way up El Alto, when I really should have just onsighted it. Brain will surely arrive later. Showed my heritage by not feeling comfortable until I got a decent jam into the corner. Then it started raining properly.

The camping area was pretty nice. We spent a while driving around looking for a quiet campsight away from possible noisy/drunk bogans, when it turned out that was actually us. Had a roaring fire and ate 3 dinners.

The next morning, the influx of MTB and MTX riders was terrifying, and ruined the serenity quite severely. Plus, someone who seemed to be torturing dogs for an hour.

So, is there other camping near by? Maybe something we can walk in to? That said, it's a possible day trip from Canberra, which is probably what I'll do next time. As little as we did, I actually enjoyed clipping some bolts again. I reckon it's been 18 months since I last clipped a ring.

EB

evanbb
22/06/2009
8:56:58 AM
Has anyone checked out the cliffs across the Valley? Looks like you could get in there via Teudts Rd, but it might be private property at the end of the road.

Hawkman
22/06/2009
9:18:27 AM
glad you had a good time evan. the state forrest also gets used by Dogsledders! camping there that weekend might be painful.

heres what the prominent orange arete on the other side looks like close up.

its a lot further from teudts road than it looks.

widewetandslippery
22/06/2009
9:25:26 AM
I've walked over there with wombat from the original area. Climbed one insignificant pitch and backed off at the start of the real climbing. Not as bad as it looks.

wallwombat
22/06/2009
5:04:54 PM
Yeah, the quickest way is to walk down the spur to Johnston's Creek and up the other side. Iyt doesn't take long.

The rock down at the creek is granite, which I thought was unusual. It's the only granite I have seen anywhere in the Morton NP.

rodw
22/06/2009
5:36:40 PM
The Nat park dosnt start until you take the left down the first hill (not to be mistaken with the second hill were people park there cars...thats nat park) ...so you can camp up top there....that should keep you away from most of it especially at night.

Hawkman
3/07/2009
3:03:58 PM
sorry to resurect this but just found the pic online

Evan,

here are the three unclimbed (??) cracks at wingello. Photo doesn't do them justice. need a slight clean but thats about it.


evanbb
3/07/2009
3:19:17 PM
Holy crap, that looks sensational. Looks a little fused at the bottom? Might challenge my 'skills'?
Would love a crack at them though.


How do you post such big pics?

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 42
There are 42 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints