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Help some sport climbers go trad climbing...


JimboV10

28-May-2009
12:49:36 PM

Ok, here is the challenge...

A mate and I are getting back into this trad game properly after a few years of just bouldering and sport climbing. YES we can trad climb, and YES we have our own gear.. we can probably onsight up to 21(ish) on trad, both climb 23-25 on sport and boulder V6-9..

What I was after is some inspiration for LONG trad routes in the Grampians.. obviously there would be stuff at Rosea and Difficult but I dont have a guide at the moment...

I remember when I first started climbing that I used to pore over routes like Sword in the Stone and a few others..

Anyone got any classic that we HAVE to do.. Talking 5+ pitches, 100m+ routes?


nmonteith

28-May-2009
1:31:14 PM

You'll be struggling to find much that is 5 pitches or over 100m in the Grampians (apart from at Rosea).

Wirilda (18) and Triptych (22) at Asses Ear are good 3 pitch routes.
Obviously things like Technical Ecstasy and Missing (23) and The Navigator (21) on the walls left of Taipan are 3 or 4 pitches each and uber classic.
Seventh Pillar (23) on Taipan is awesome traddy baddy classicsville
The Far Pavillion in the Vic Ranges has some fantastic gr 18 - 24 three pitch routes all on trad. Very three star.


D.Lodge

28-May-2009
1:48:12 PM

Don't know about your 21ish onsight level though Jimbo lol but the Navigator is a must do on Grey and Green walls at Stayplton.


JimboV10

28-May-2009
1:53:51 PM

Well I dont go onsighting cracks that for sure.. And it depends on the route, but I can get my ass up stuff Rich! lol Atreyu is apparently the badass out of us two!

widewetandslippery

28-May-2009
2:26:59 PM

Jimbo I've found that after a lay off the big decider is not long routes but long pitches. Long trad pitches have generally much greater duration than there sport conterparts of the same length. An 8 route day of 10 m pitches 80m. An eight route day of 40m pitches 320. Its not about energy systems etc its about being tough. 320m will toughen you up more than 80m.


JimboV10

28-May-2009
2:51:29 PM

True that.. The idea is to just get a lot of solid days of placements, anchor building, shifting leads on stuff that we are relatively comfortable on to get our heads in a bit more, than tackle some longer enduro stuff...

ardkranker

28-May-2009
3:17:48 PM

On 28/05/2009 JimboV10 wrote:
>Ok, here is the challenge...
>
>A mate and I are getting back into this trad game properly after a few
>years of just bouldering and sport climbing. YES we can trad climb, and
>YES we have our own gear.. we can probably onsight up to 21(ish) on trad,
>both climb 23-25 on sport and boulder V6-9..

Another jimbo post including the obligatory spraying bout numbers...

ardkranker

28-May-2009
3:47:42 PM

How about "I climb really hard in the gym, but fall to pieces outdoors"... :)


JimboV10

28-May-2009
4:03:58 PM

On 28/05/2009 ardkranker wrote:
>How about "I climb really hard in the gym, but fall to pieces outdoors"...
>:)

Hence the getting some practice on trad again ;)


nmonteith

28-May-2009
4:32:08 PM

Green Gap Pinnacle is another remote largish wall which has seen some newer routes recently...
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=area&area_id=1418


D.Lodge

28-May-2009
5:21:31 PM

As much as it pains me too say ardkranker Jimbo can get his arse up stuff on real rock just struggles to wiggle stuff in at the same time and not follow the shiny things lol


wallwombat

28-May-2009
5:46:36 PM

Why don't you just do a couple of marathon weekends at Araps. Surely that will get you back into the swing of things.

Mind you, if you procrastinate as much about going trad climbing as you do about selling me that bouldering pad, don't worry. Araps probably will have eroded into the plains by the time you actually get around to climbing anything.


JimboV10

28-May-2009
6:02:14 PM

PM'd you


wallwombat

28-May-2009
6:23:55 PM

That's exactly the comeback I was after.


muki

28-May-2009
8:31:57 PM

I second the "Navigator" on Grey and Green Wall, and "The Seventh Pillar" on Taipan Wall is a must do.

rod

28-May-2009
10:24:54 PM

On 28/05/2009 JimboV10 wrote:
>Well I dont go onsighting cracks that for sure.

I second that...and them :)

I made some good advances on cracks by watching Return to Sender then inflicting myself to the necessary flailing cycle. Good thread initiative Jimbo.

kieranl

29-May-2009
8:47:25 AM

Rosea goes up to about 4 pitches and even those can usually be done in 3 long pitches. The ACA online Rosea guide is up to date.
If your main issue is getting used to placing gear again then you should start with Debbutante and Heretic just to get into some sort of rythm.
Then Diane, Gillian, Sloth/Dinosaur Gully DF, Last Rites, Barleycorn, Martin Eden, Abysmal Brute.
Then move on to Ascension, you should be sound enough on gear to protect the third pitch adequately.
To cap things off, hit The Last Act.


freesolo

29-May-2009
5:55:14 PM

go do five fingered mary and scorpion at araps. that will get you sorted.

they are in the sun this time of year, midday

bam bam

30-May-2009
5:15:37 PM

I don't think trad climbers wear perfume. You'll have to give up your J-Lo Style personal fragrance. How did you spay about it again?......'Crush' - the hack essential?


atreyudelacy

31-May-2009
11:28:30 PM

On 30/05/2009 bam bam wrote:
>I don't think trad climbers wear perfume. You'll have to give up your J-Lo
>Style personal fragrance. How did you spay about it again?......'Crush'
>- the hack essential?

*foreword. This post is not directed at those who actually responded positively to this thread, with
some useful posts...

who said we're "trad climbers"... what we are is not being so narrow minded as to pidgeon hole
ourselves, as "sport climbers" or "boulderers" or "trad climbers" or whatever.... how bout we're just
climbers who wanna enjoy climbing... whatever style it may be...

I think half the crusty old "trad climbers" on this forum should get the f*ck over themselves, pick up a
bouldering mat and diversify a little.

Oh and a special 'spray' for ardkranker. I hope you realise the stupidity in criticising someone for
advertising how hard they crank, when your profile name clearly advertises that you also "crank
hard"...

There are 66 messages in this topic.