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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 49
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Frog Buttress and Glasshouse
12:33:26 PM
On 17/06/2009 phil_nev wrote:
>I still don't know the difference between jamming & jamBING???????

it's jamming if you use plain english.

it's jamBing if you're obsessed with perpetuating random typos from the land of queens

Phil Box
6:39:02 PM
On 17/06/2009 WM wrote:
>On 17/06/2009 phil_nev wrote:
>>I still don't know the difference between jamming & jamBING???????
>it's jamming if you use plain english.
>it's jamBing if you're obsessed with perpetuating random typos from the
>land of queens

It's jamBing if you want to perpetuate the annoyance of c--kroaches for having tried to annoy Queenslanders. ;)) We wear that sort of thing like a badge of courage.

7:41:27 PM
I recently had the pleasure of meeting Neill Lamb, who did the first ascents of a fair few routes in the Glasshouse Mountains in the 1950s. Carborundum Chimney on Mt Tibrogargen is one of his routes.

It was fascinating chatting to him about these early ascents, which sounded bloody terrifying, and were normally climbed with only a rope and a few slings.

He also told a few good stories of climbing various bridges and buildings around Brisbane, beered up and undercover of darkness, constantly one step ahead of the pissed off constabulary.

He climbed the Matterhorn about a decade ago and was really shitty that his wife made him hire a guide.

I look forward to chatting more to Neill, who is a real part of Australian climbing history and a top bloke to boot.

8:43:41 PM

9:28:10 PM
Thanks, Gremlin. That was a very interesting read.

I'll certainly be asking Neill to tell me about some of those climbs, next time I see him.

9:37:22 PM
Back on topic for a moment...

...WM and I had a cracker of a half day up at Slider Wall on Mt Tibrogargan on Monday. The upper wall is a great micro sport crag, and although it's fairly limited (ignoring variants and link ups which aren't all that inspiring), the climbing is great, the protection modern and the access is cruisy. There are some rather disturbing looking blocks on the wall (particularly on the easier routes), but we didn't pull much stuff off and the wall is chalked up the wazoo so the holds have presumably been yanked on by hordes of punters (for whatever that's worth...).

A couple of notes: the directions to the crag aren't the most accurate - there are two left turns under the railway bridge - take the second one. Ignore the right turn just after the bridge and follow the paved road to its end (it looks like you're entering the forest nursery, but the NP track heads off to the left at the end of the paved road past the sheds). We parked about 100m before the East Face carpark as there was a nasty looking boggy section full of logs just before it.

The walking directions were mostly accurate, except that we never saw a second paved section of track. Instead we walked about 100m left past the first paved section and found an obvious climber's track leading straight up the hill to Lower Slider Wall (head right when you hit the cliff - the first route is about 15m right and uphill from where the track hits the cliff).

All in all a great winter day's destination for anyone in SE Qld looking for some consumer friendly climbing. While the lower wall might offer some interest, definitely head for the upper wall as it's the jewel in the crown.

10:03:54 PM
Peter - you made the right decision when you parked before the boggy section. I was up there a few weeks ago and we did the same thing. But as we walked past the East Face carpark I noticed a sedan sitting there, and I wondered how they got in - and more to the point: how they were going to get out.

Anyway, when we were leaving I got my answer.

The drivers of the car had left (or tried to leave) before us, and the car was embedded in the boggy section up to its wheel arches.

With all the rain we've had up here recently, that section could take a while to dry out.

5:44:50 PM
That'd explain the semi-dried 6 inch deep wheel ruts we saw. Even in the Forester it looked a bit goey, mostly because of the 10m long logs liberally distributed throughout the boggy section - not sure what the idea is there - maybe they were originally laid perpendicular to the road, rather than looking like a giant game of pickup sticks??

Phil Box
7:42:13 PM
Lotsa multipitch sport routes close to the east face carpark at Tibro. Get into em they are awesome even if I do say so myself.

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