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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	Tiger Wall	(General)	(General)	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Author

"A Vegetarian Delight"


Rupert

17-May-2004
1:22:50 PM

There is a new route written up on the VCC site at the moment:
Shit F@#$, I Ate a Beef Burger!… Arhhh 120m 15
A vegetarian Delight! Start at large rock cairn halfway between Syrinx and Pan Grove. 1) 40m 15 Climb slabby weakness through bulge to ledge, continue straight up to big ledge. 2) 35m 13 Step R onto ridge, follow straight through bulge, passing weird holes 2 m to your L. Follow large flake to gain R hand of twin cracks to another bulge, pull this and belay on top. 3) 35m 13 Climb straight through 2 juggy bulges following obvious weaknesses. Continue up to gain ledge via yet another bulge. 4) Finish by climbing diagonally L to meet syrinx final pitch. Climb Syrinx final pitch. Shaun Kratzer and some other Pom. Feb 2004

I climbed this with Jerry on Saturday before the rain and found the first 3 pitches to be pretty good interesting climbing that will clean up really nicely with a bit more traffic. The climb is let down a little with the finish as described and I feel sure a better more direct finish could be added instead of traversing over to meet Syrinx. Anybody else done this climb?


shaggy

17-May-2004
1:43:51 PM

Good to see one of my new routes is getting a little traffic, Louise Sheppard did the climb the other week and said exactly the same and confimed the grades.
There are a few 4th pitch options, orionally, when I put the climb up, we did A direct finish which goes at about 18:
Climb wall at back of ledge, approx 3m L of large tree, traverse R, climb steap seam, traverse R, Climb weakness through steep over hang, ramble to summit.
Unfortunatley not as direct as the rest of the climb.
The other alternative is that you can walk off from the top of the 3rd pitch by traversing R along ledge.
But, if you'e never done Syrinx before, the last pitch is a bit of fun.
If anyone else has an alternative I'll be glad to hear it as well.
Rupert, would be glad to hear what you thought of the route.


Rupert

17-May-2004
4:51:42 PM

Other than my comment about the final pitch(es) we enjoyed it. The undercling and then easy finger crack on the first pitch is really nice, the second pitch is a little run out to start (I found a good wire placement over to the right in the scrubby crack) but the climbing is easy at that point, the crack through the bulge high on this pitch is great. The third pitch was good too, we followed the some chalked holds up the weakness above and slightly right of the belay here - you could interpret your description to mean the weakness directly above the obvious belay which looks a fair bit harder than the suggested grade - however the moves we followed are airy, well protected and fun. We did see some faint traces of chalk on the wall behind the belay at the top of the third pitch which I guess was your 18 variant. Its worth scoping out a direct finish at a similar grade if you can find one - then this will become quite popular I think. Good one.


Richard

18-May-2004
1:04:38 PM

So is there a story behind the name?


shaggy

18-May-2004
1:10:34 PM

Certainly is, but if I told you I would probably end up in a concrete block somewhere. The name is an anogram for something else. One night sitting at the pines while under the affects of intoxicants, the letters were passed around until a drunk israeli came up with the name, was very funny at the time. Majority of us present were vego's, so the name was appropriate while one of the people present was cooking a hamburger next to us.
Shit f--- I Ate a BeeF Burger
S F I A B F B

If you come up with the real words, I'll give you 20 cents!
(Those who know, do not post!)

kieranl

23-May-2004
10:54:24 PM

There's probably bits in common with Shtarde and The Wobble but those climbs haven't been properly located to anyone's satisfaction. Where are the upper pitches in relation to The Belvedere?


shaggy

25-May-2004
9:59:01 AM

It runs to the right of the belverdere, next time I'm back up at araps I wouldn't mind I wouldn't mind borrowing you for a few minutes and we could Eye ball it from the ground.
Louise seems to think it misses the other climbs, but I think it crosses Wobble low down down?


Richard

25-May-2004
1:00:22 PM

Still haven't cracked that anagram, think your 20c is safe. Guess it's becuase I can't find the same brand of beer you guys were drinking when you made it ..


shaggy

25-May-2004
1:40:21 PM

It will all come out in the wash..... eventually.


rocknrich

25-May-2004
3:42:55 PM

I don't know, but it looks like SF Is A Big Fat Bitch!?


shaggy

25-May-2004
4:25:45 PM

Why would you think that?
But good guess.
Were you a regular visitor to the Ghetto?

kieranl

25-May-2004
9:38:44 PM

Shaggy, I'm happy to do that but I am unavailable until august (a weird thing called long-service leave). The funny thing about the R side of Tiger Wall is that it's usualy dismissed as crap rock that can be climbed aywhere. The reality is that are are very few lines of weakness and the climbing is quite hard.
For various reasons I haven't been climbing much the last few years but I have been looking at a climb in this area : start a bit right of Greasy Burritos and then move up right and finish up the front of the Belvedere.
Maybe we can have a look at that in August or September.
regards
Kieran


Richard

26-May-2004
1:07:59 PM

On 25/05/2004 shaggy wrote:
>Why would you think that? But good guess. Were you a regular visitor to the Ghetto?

Technicaly, nothing in shaggys reply is a denial?! We need a new puzzle now Hex has been busted...


rocknrich

26-May-2004
6:50:24 PM

Oh s#*t! I just realised who SF is. No I haven't been there much, it just kinda clicked when I heard some kid singing a song from South Park. I'm guessing that is it then?


kinky_tom

27-May-2004
7:30:26 PM

The mystery still remains

kieranl

27-May-2004
9:39:06 PM

I actually wandered out this morning and located the cairn and natural water streak that I have failed to find over the years.
The climb starts about 4m R of Shtarde and 5m L of The Wobble.It possibly shares bits with those climbs as it approaches the Belvedere but the descriptions of those climbs are so vague that it is impossible to tell. The bottom 50m (at least) look to be indepedent.


shaggy

28-May-2004
11:01:57 AM

Yeah, I sat there for hours, both before and after setting the route and couldn't really work out where Shtard and wobble went exactly, I know the new route crosses at some point but thats about all I know. The new route definately takes a very direct line from ground to terrace, so I'm not really sure what those other routes are doing.
Kieren, I never could find the 's' that is supposed to mark the start of 'Shtard', did you find it?

Hey Tom, it's all a conspiaracy!


nmonteith

28-May-2004
11:20:33 AM

On 28/05/2004 shaggy wrote:
both before and after setting the route

what brand holds did you bolt on?


shaggy

28-May-2004
11:44:57 AM

he he, mainly flash point, you know, old ones from the mill! But I just used blue tac, will that work alright???

kieranl

28-May-2004
8:57:19 PM

Shaggy,
I never found the "S", it's probably been covered by moss, but the obvious crack a few m left of your climb has the rare plant (name escapes me) growing. Above that crack it goes straight into a nasty chimney.
The first couple of pitches of Shtarde are very direct but it eventually ends up on the ledge at the R base of the Belvedere.
The Wobble starts a few metres R of your climb but then moves R at about 10m. It then wobbles about but ends up on the ledge at the base of the Belvedere.
I'm not interested in who did what first. What I am interested in is where the climbs go.

There are 22 messages in this topic.